Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

Let us know I just burnt mine up with this exact issue. My mains were at .0028 with a melling pump and it trashed the crank and block. Still not sure what caused it. need to get the crank straight first and see how the balance checks out and go from there.

Tim

EXCESSIVE81

^..ouch

so what specs do i need my main and rod bearings if callies specs are wrong giving me low oil pressure. gonna drop k member monday so can pull pan.

callies drangon slayer crank
compstar rods
ls3 block
stock main caps
main stud girdle

EXCESSIVE81

drove it yesterday to see what it was doing in more detail. start up is 35-40 psi.... as it warms up it drops of course as oil warms but when it in my normal drive TEMP 190-200 has 15psi or more at 75 in 6th...15-1800rpm. so that within what gm says 8psi per 1000rpm...but not what most are seeing and i wanna address it now. only in city drive did i see 220-230 temps and that when if i let it idel it would drop to 10psi.

67SS509

iTrader: (25)

Most people speak of settings clearances like it's a matter of adjusting a screw or something. Let me tell you, it takes years of experience. First you have to have proper tools for measuring correctly and develope your own technique to give repeatable and believable results. Once you have correct measurements then you have to mix and match bearings...oversize/undersize....brands and with or without coating to get the clearance you want.

Callies stuff is always very accurate. Shoot for .0019 to .0022 on the mains and .0024 to .0026 on the rods. For comparison their specs for the mains would be about (.0025 to .0031 (with iron blocks and strong oil pumps works fine)

Another thing to take in consideration is how much or how many times a block has been aligned honed. Extra clearance at the parting lines of the mains can create internal oil leaks. Your main bores should be pretty close to 2.751 + or minus .0001. You will find Callies mains to be right around 2.5590.
With a Clevite bearing (2 halves) thickness of .190 you should have a clearance of .0020

Not looking for a debate here just sharing my experience!

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

In my opinion, for the average street/strip engine built for NA or a mild power-adder, that is too loose on the mains for an aluminum block!

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

That is what I say the guy who set them there says no. He has never built one of these either.

But it looks like I am the one getting hosed. I had good pressure when it got hot it dropped to 20 at idle

Tim

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

When your aluminum block gets to full temp the clearances CAN loosen up as much as .001"! All of a sudden those bad clearances got even worse at temp, and your oil pressure goes down down down in a burning ring of fire (Johnny Cash).

6.0monsta

iTrader: (7)

What was your oil pressure?

I know my bearings are lose for nitrous but don't know the exact specs. At cold start up I have around 55psi. As soon as the oil temps reach 215+ my pressure drops to 22-25 at idle. I'm running 15w40. Should I be concerned?

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Ok guys. I have 408 iron block but wanted to ask some questions.
I have think around 3000 or so miles on my 408 .I have been running 10/40 quaker state non synthetic.
I have an slp pump and this year put in the higher pressure spring.I never paid too much attention to my oil pressure. I had heard about the oring thing and when car fired up it had oil pressure and never saw an oil light warning either.
The other day I had my air on and car got a lot hotter than usual. It was very hot day as well in the 90s maybe hit 100.
I glanced down at the temp and it was 250 or so just under boilover I guess. It didn't boil over. Also I saw the oil warning light come on and the pressure was low in the red.
It was still going up when you gave it revs. Let it cool down, drove it home everything seemed ok. Today I changed out the oil to 15/50 mobile one. Wanted to run amsoil 15/50 or even amsoil 20/50 but no one in my city stocks the amsoil in that grade. I was thinking 15/50 might be better since drive car in bit cooler weather beginning march and end october. Not usually below 0 F and usually minimum is more like 32F before bring it out or put it away.

I assume my stroker 408 was set up pretty loose.Its iron block not alumuinum. My builder died in mid build.Dave Deluca from Canadian performance so hard to ask about the exact specs I am pretty sure my engine was sent out across border for assembly and machining. I finished up the engine at home.
I just checked oil and don't see any metal in there. I never really have. I got no funny knocking sounds.
But a bit worried now. How much should I see on iron block warm with 15/50 mobile one
with that slp pump with high pressure spring or does the spring only affect it off idle. I am idling it pretty slowly could likely take it up a hundred or two for more oil pressure if need be.

My car is turboed of course.Aps standard turbos are still in there and have been known to fail.
So questions..
What should I see for oil pressure warm? If it don't hold 20 psi at least should I go up to 20/50 amsoil or 20/50 dino?
Could a turbo thats leaking bad from being fubared cause low oil pressure.
What are the exact symptoms of problem with oring. Its for sure in there and for sure the right oring. And as said never noticed any check engine lights or low oil pressure till lately.
Could it be that cam gasket .I did reuse my original I think. I torqued it to spec.
But again pressure does go up with rpm.
What are the symptoms of bad oil pressure sensor. Mine stays think around 20 when shut off car. Are they supposed to go to zero?
Hooking up mechanical sounds difficult. I would think since feeding turbos off the port above oil filter would need a t to put in the mechanical gauge? Or could I temp connect it and not feed the turbos if only idling to see idle pressure? Or do you guys connect it to back oil pressure sender? To do that again would have to unscrew sensor..Is there anyway to change sensor without removing intake. I don't really want to take off my intake if don't have to. My nitrous setup makes taking it off more difficult .

So far as said no funny noises from engine. Engine is pulling good vacuum, not seeing any clouds out the back. I have the usual piston slap cold but it goes away after car warms up.

Don't the senders when they go bad either not read at all or can they read low but still read higher cold and move around when you give it rpm.

Sorry don't mean to hijack this thread and realize my engine is iron and thus bigger clearances but still hoping some of you guys can chime in.

spdrcr7882

not sure how related this is, but my fuel pressure sender for my aftermarket fuel pressure gauge, went bad, and it reads about 10-15 pounds lower than it really is, and when I get on it the gauge shows a bunch of presure drop, and with a mechanical gauge, there is no pressure drop.
Justin

EXCESSIVE81

i been piecing together an new setup for oil cooler lines so we shall see tomm what pressure is...fingers crossed lol

ChucksZ06

iTrader: (9)

Listen to what Matt is saying. Way too many engine builders use clearances for race engines(with iron blocks) and 50 wt oil. Fast forward to aluminum blocks and thin synthetic oils. Low pressure is the result. I try to keep mine at .002 max on the mains and .025 on rods.

Gaz05

I would not use no more then 0.002 on the mains with the aluminium block. My own LS7 has 0.0018 on the mains and 0.0026 on the conrods with Callies crank and Compstar rods, oil pressure is 30/35 hot idle @800rpm and 65/70 at WOT, oil pump is a GM high volume with 10W30 Brad Penn. Seen a lot of sub standard oil coolers and associated plumbing cause huge pressure drops across them resulting in engine failure, I would be looking at the cooler set up very carefully..

427

iTrader: (3)

If the engine had good pressure when it was new and is slowly dropping off with miles I would cut the filter and look for signs of bearing. Most new engines will put off a little fine dust as the rods work into each other and ti retainers will create some minor dust looking particles, but if you see any pieces in the base of the can that are the size of the tip of a pencil it's worth pulling the engine to take a look before you do serious damage.

Kurt

jdiddyws6

iTrader: (5)

Mines doing similar, in wicked hot stop and go traffic, it would get low (check guages), but that was the only time it got that low. I believe it has 5w-30 in it too, so next time I go home, I'm going to put a little thicker oil in it and see how it does.

EXCESSIVE81

well i have had a crazy 6 mths and just got time to tear down the motor as the guage confirmed the oil pressure drop. when pulled the pan there was small shavings which looked like bearing material/coating. tore it all down and the bearings did not spin in the mains or the rods but they had shavings go thru them. i will get some pics up soon. i just hoping they can machine crank there very little damage to it. can't really feel it but can see the marking in what was nice and polished. but i will be taking it up to livernois this week to get needed machine work done unless somebody knows a good shop closer to indianapolis?. so what specs should i ask it to be set to. it 416 ls3 with procharger d1. i amspinning it aas hard as it will go so 20 psi of boost. it is a callies dragonslayer crank, compstar rods and diamond pistons. went with coated acl bearings before sould i go with somethng diffrent?

Speed Shifter

Where did the shavings come from and why?

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I took my engine out the other day.Posted all this in the forced induction forum under ERL 427 topic.

My 408 had some spun bearings. So be likely turning crank and maybe align honing the block. So if your oil pressure does drop after car warms up and drops really low likely its also spun bearings but guess bit of chance it could be oring problem in oil pump or something else. In my case not that lucky.

mohammed_k81

What Should be the KPA oil pressure be at 2000 / 3000 / 4000 / 5000 / 6000 / 7000 RPM for an ls3 stroker 429

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

Depends. Lots of little things Mine will cruse with 200 degree oil temp at 65-70. WOT is 105 drops to 90 at the end of the pass. 30 at idle. Dead cold it will make 70 at idle and 100 cruse. I don't rev on it at cold at all.

Tim