It's time to start the build for an engine I've been collecting parts for a while now, and I want to share the progress. The engine is not the end all of street engine builds, but is one that is built to take a beating, built to last, and built using all high quality USA internals.

The goal is 600 RWHP NA.
No race gas will be used in the primary fuel system.
The engine must be streetable, daily drivable in a pinch. (A grumpy idle is not only OK, but desirable)
Close the hood and drive it is key.

Bacis specs of what I have so far:
Short deck Warhawk LS7 block
Kellogg forged crankshaft (4.0 stroke)
Lunati Pro Billet rods (6.125 length)
JE pistons (4.155 bore)
Jesel bronze lifter bushings
Jesel link bar hydraulic lifters
Texas Speed LS7R cam
C5R timing components
Katech ported LS6 wet sump oil pump

Static compression 12.05:1
Dynamic compression 8.45:1 w/0 advance

First impressions of the Warhawk block are positive. I built one of the first ones down the assembly line years ago and found the final machine work and QC to be less than ideal. I was pleased to find the latest offering to be top notch in presentation.
I am also very pleased with the work of my machinist. I went over the block both before and after the machine work and found the tolerances on my mains and bore to be within a few tenths.


I am planning on sending the rods and crank to Calico to have them micropolished after the balancing is completed next week... any thoughts on that?

The heads will be ported LS7 Ti valve castings, undecided on who to go with yet.. either WCCH or PRC

The intake will be a ported FAST 102, I'll likely do that myself after the heads are done and bolted to the shortblock for port alignment....


I know I need to buy a camera (these are iPhone pics)


Warhawk 4.155 bores and Jesel bronze lifter bushings



Beautiful knife-edged Kellogg forged crank

Lunati Billet rods and JE slugs



Here's a Pro-Billet rod next to a same-size Compstar rod. They are the identical weight, yet the Lunati rod is rated well into the four digit horsepower range.

 

looks like a nice bunch of parts you have there. sounds like a killer build man

 

Gonna be a monster. I feel your pain on collecting parts. I have been collecting parts for years.

 

Long time to talk Chris. How you been?

Parts list looks sick. Is this build for your personal use, or for someone else?

 

mmmmmbillet

 

lets put it in my truck chris.

 

Very nice start.....I have a very similar Warhawk build going as well. I'd spend the money for the PRC LS7 heads...nice pieces, especially with the Ti intake valve option.

 

Ive been following your build as well. Tall deck, right?

Well, I was gonna use for myself, but hey, write the check big money!

Ive been OK... hows Cadillac? This ones going in a WS6 for me.

 

I should have the internals back from balance this week, so I am getting the rings out of the way while I wait.

I decided against micropolishing the crank and rods. I was doing it for aesthetics as much as for oil shedding, but the cost is outweighing the small potential gains. I'll save the $$ for cosmetic upgrades that can actually be seen with the engine in the car

JE rings .024 top/ .025 2nd

 

nice build you have giong...keeep it up.

 

Nice build, great looking crank.

 

You have a good memory Whistler! My build is much like yours...I like the rods you chose better.

Just a suggestion, if you were after some performance advantage by micropolishing that crank, have you considered a dry sump setup instead? I found an ARE setup (pan, pump,ATI balancer and HTD pulleys) for $700 here. I've seen similar pricing if you buy pieces individually on eBay. I've spoken with Gary at ATI in depth and he swears my setup will add 30-40 HP....plus my pan depth is very shallow so I can lower my cars' front end...just a thought...

I can send pix of the PRC 285 heads if you want to see the quality....

 

why does a dry sump setup free up power?

 

because it keeps oil out of the pan and reduces windage "oil hitting crankshaft" which increases high rpm hp

 

what heads?

i am very happy to see someone using the ls7r cam. there was an impressive build last year when tsp used it on smaller cubes than your build. im interest in your input of the drivability of that cam with your bigger cubes. are you installing it straight up?

mind me asking how much for the dry sump setup?

good luck on the build. so what's the ETA?

 

We'll find out shortly.. this one should be running by the end of the month, or the first week in November.

Yes installing it straight up will yield an 8.45 DCR on this setup which should sound and perform great.


This engine will be running a wet sump and ported LS6 pump.

I'm still waiting on the parts back from balance... getting anxious!

 

Going to be a sweet build. I like the idea of the rods you are using - I always though the Compstar rods were rated in the 1XXX. Could be wrong. But rod ratings are based on horsepower at what RPM?

 

That'll be a super nice setup. It's going in a candy pink WS6 you say...

I'd love to put something like that in my Formula, but I need to stay on budget if I'm ever going to finish this thing.

 

If this isn't a typo then it won't last 5 seconds...

 

The cylinders are repeatable within a few ten thousandths of each other. The actual piston/bore clearance is .007 (as per JE)