402 or 408 or 418 or 427?
I disagree, unless you're content with not optimizing the build. All four components you mention should have some variation (especially over a 50 cube variance). Entirely too many variables in combination with heads, cams (I know it wasn't mentioned), etc. though you might pull off injectors and intakes being in the "all the same" possibility, one that works for a 402 may not for a 454. Again, hard to broad brush "interchangeable" over that range.
My build started as a simple 440....cathedral port heads, 102 intake, etc. For a few extra bucks turned into ls7 heads and naturally intakes changed. Changed direction and upgraded to a 460. Could have used the same components but the cubes justified proportional increases...going to a C5R style head and sheetmetal intake. And of course, for a few more bucks
OP, define your power goals, use (street, track, etc), what you're willing to sacrifice for specific 'wants'
, outline your budget (then add 20%, lol) but build from the bottom up. 
My build started as a simple 440....cathedral port heads, 102 intake, etc. For a few extra bucks turned into ls7 heads and naturally intakes changed. Changed direction and upgraded to a 460. Could have used the same components but the cubes justified proportional increases...going to a C5R style head and sheetmetal intake. And of course, for a few more bucks
OP, define your power goals, use (street, track, etc), what you're willing to sacrifice for specific 'wants'
, outline your budget (then add 20%, lol) but build from the bottom up. Not bashing but you have taken your build to the next level and for some of use that is not in the budget. As it is even with my budget build my back tires beg for mercy every time I start the car.
I wouldn't call a sheet metal intake and a C5R head just optimizing a build, what I was trying to say that a good set of heads for a 402 are going to be about the same price as a set of heads for a 440+ ci motor. The same quality of rotating assembly can be used and a 102 intake should handle the intake side of things.
Not bashing but you have taken your build to the next level and for some of use that is not in the budget. As it is even with my budget build my back tires beg for mercy every time I start the car.
Not bashing but you have taken your build to the next level and for some of use that is not in the budget. As it is even with my budget build my back tires beg for mercy every time I start the car.
. My project did expand beyond my original intent, but my point was more of the issue in interchangeable components given the cube range you specified. Though a given head or intake "fits" on particular motor does not necessarily mean it functions as it should. A 102 on my motor would work, but would be the restriction....sheet metal option 'optimized' the combo. just make sure whatever you choose you have some overhead cash to play with.
Also decide what you WONT be using on your old motor and come up with some pricing to sell off the old parts.
Im still trying to figure out if getting a stroker kit for my ls2 or just a ls2 short block will wind up being the cheeper deal. but the good thing is I dont intend to really use anything other than the accessories off my ls1 so I can sell it as a complete motor
I can garentee you that you will spend another few thousand just getting the rest of the parts needed for this engine and if your running on the stock rear you might as well save to replace that too.
You can always buy in pieces also, you can find the right short block, then save for your heads and so on and vice versa, you can also take your time and check the classifieds for parts you need at cheeper prices
Also decide what you WONT be using on your old motor and come up with some pricing to sell off the old parts.
Im still trying to figure out if getting a stroker kit for my ls2 or just a ls2 short block will wind up being the cheeper deal. but the good thing is I dont intend to really use anything other than the accessories off my ls1 so I can sell it as a complete motor
I can garentee you that you will spend another few thousand just getting the rest of the parts needed for this engine and if your running on the stock rear you might as well save to replace that too.
You can always buy in pieces also, you can find the right short block, then save for your heads and so on and vice versa, you can also take your time and check the classifieds for parts you need at cheeper prices
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 537
Likes: 1
ERL dry sleeve 454. $5000 and no iron block.
Research and save. Don't settle, or you'll probably end up wanting more and re-doing it which cost even more.
The only real difference in the total build cost will be the short block, which isn't that significant in the grand scheme of things.
As far as spray goes, a strong NA engine is a blast, and that power is there all the time, but on occasion a couple hundred hp extra is pretty cool too. Would you realy need 800 rwhp ALL the time, or could could you get by with only 600 most of the time?
Research and save. Don't settle, or you'll probably end up wanting more and re-doing it which cost even more.
The only real difference in the total build cost will be the short block, which isn't that significant in the grand scheme of things.
As far as spray goes, a strong NA engine is a blast, and that power is there all the time, but on occasion a couple hundred hp extra is pretty cool too. Would you realy need 800 rwhp ALL the time, or could could you get by with only 600 most of the time?
You need to add the LS2 or LS3 core block to this price. Only a little more to turn his LS1 block into a Superdeck 1 and get get the bonus of billet caps and wet sleeves. All his other stuff will bolt back on as well. Superdeck is a great buy for LS1 guys - providing they add up all the costs of alternatives.
I guess this just goes to show that if you ask 20 people what engine they would build you will get 20 different answers, I can only comment that mine was never going to be a maximum effort build. I wanted a reliable big cube motor that I could take to the track every once and awhile. You will have to draw a line somewhere.
Good luck with your choice.
Good luck with your choice.
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I guess this just goes to show that if you ask 20 people what engine they would build you will get 20 different answers, I can only comment that mine was never going to be a maximum effort build. I wanted a reliable big cube motor that I could take to the track every once and awhile. You will have to draw a line somewhere.
Good luck with your choice.
Good luck with your choice.
but like most of you are sayin, the biggest im gonna go is a 418 i think i would be plenty happy with that.
I have ran a 403 ci LS2 Stroker for 2 years now, and let me be the first to say I LOVE IT. However, I'm ready to change setups and I am currently looking at all possibilities. I have been banging my head against the walls trying to figure it out. lol I already started parting out the camaro and already bought a Trans Am. 
But I'll tell you 1 thing, just the tq. alone will scare the **** outta you the first time you jump into the throttle. I absolutely love the power from an All Motor 400+ CI combo. I have driven many H/C/I/stalled/bolt-on LS1's and none of them have impressed me as much as my 403 Stroker. Just my honest oppinion tho. Not to mention, I have only been beaten by a hand-ful of cars and we have ALOT of street racers here in Indy! 
Not to mention, my setup was nowhere near "optimized". It still had a set of UNTOUCHED ls6 (243's) heads on it with Patriot .650" lift dbl. springs on it.
It just runs HARD as Hell!
Anyways, I just wanted to say that given the situation your in... I would honestly look at a ls2 402 or an ls3 416/418 if you can afford 1 of these setups. With a well thought out combo, you'll see 10's NA and still have great street manners. I went 10.993 at 125.61 mph with a crappy 1.659 60' leaving VERY easily so I did not break my factory 10 bolt. I say go with 1 of those 2.
However, it's your build and it's up to you. Just build what you think you'll be happy with. In the end, thats all that matters anyways.
If you want to check out my car and setup (white 98 Z).... heres the link to my F-Quick Page www.fquick.com/LT1Formula007 I have alot of pics, and build info in there. You'll have to join tho but it's free. Also, I have lots of videos too. If you like watching street races and stuff. lol
-James
But I'll tell you 1 thing, just the tq. alone will scare the **** outta you the first time you jump into the throttle.
I absolutely love the power from an All Motor 400+ CI combo. I have driven many H/C/I/stalled/bolt-on LS1's and none of them have impressed me as much as my 403 Stroker. Just my honest oppinion tho. Not to mention, I have only been beaten by a hand-ful of cars and we have ALOT of street racers here in Indy! Not to mention, my setup was nowhere near "optimized". It still had a set of UNTOUCHED ls6 (243's) heads on it with Patriot .650" lift dbl. springs on it.
It just runs HARD as Hell!
Anyways, I just wanted to say that given the situation your in... I would honestly look at a ls2 402 or an ls3 416/418 if you can afford 1 of these setups. With a well thought out combo, you'll see 10's NA and still have great street manners. I went 10.993 at 125.61 mph with a crappy 1.659 60' leaving VERY easily so I did not break my factory 10 bolt.
I say go with 1 of those 2. However, it's your build and it's up to you. Just build what you think you'll be happy with. In the end, thats all that matters anyways.
If you want to check out my car and setup (white 98 Z).... heres the link to my F-Quick Page www.fquick.com/LT1Formula007 I have alot of pics, and build info in there. You'll have to join tho but it's free. Also, I have lots of videos too. If you like watching street races and stuff. lol
-James
