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L92 heads on stock cubes

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Old 01-07-2011, 02:17 PM
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Default L92 heads on stock cubes

Ok guys this thread is more to settle an argument over on another website and between a few friends. I was having a discussion over on another website and everyone there seems to think that anything under 400ci will not be a good combo with the l92 heads and intake because the heads will simply not make torque. Even though I tried to explain to them that gm uses these heads on new 6.0's they stilll insisted a budget set of cathedral heads could beat stock l92's even after showing dyno sheets from here they were still not impressed so does anyone have some opinions about these heads flowing too much air to make decent torque on stock cubes?
Old 01-07-2011, 02:43 PM
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That's just too funny. L92's work great on 6.0l and awesome on 6.2L's. I went from a 347 H/C set-up to a stock 6.2L with a way smaller cam and barely touched heads and gained almost a second in the 1/4 mile!
Old 01-07-2011, 02:47 PM
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well ya their point is that any set of budget heads could take them out i suggested a set or trick flows or afrs would but they also cost 2x as much. heres the link its starts with my top post on pg3 and continues eventually i just gave up. http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...=149484&page=3
Old 01-07-2011, 03:31 PM
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This thread will go rancid... Seeing as there have been NUMEROUS threads just like it. Initially the L92 heads on smaller cubes were proving difficult to cam. The magic 1.5hp per cube threshold is attainable with cathedrals. In the end it comes down to cost. Which one can get there cheaper is really the only way to crown a victor and that depends on many things. That said for myself?

Im building a 6.2 L92 right now
Old 01-07-2011, 05:04 PM
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I hope it wont i could really find any in searches only some dyno info that supported my argument and i did post it. However I know that cathedral heads can match the performance but the idea they can do it for the same cost is simply not true in my eyes.
Old 01-07-2011, 05:28 PM
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L92 heads are LS3 heads and they come on a 6.2 from the factory that makes plenty of torque... I think that alone should end their dumbassery on that worthless site.
Old 01-07-2011, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 1bdbrd
L92 heads are LS3 heads and they come on a 6.2 from the factory that makes plenty of torque... I think that alone should end their dumbassery on that worthless site.
These thread get real old. The whole point of LS3 heads over aftermarket is the value for performance. End the comparison right there.

Besides, get a decent set of cathedrals and what manifold are you going to use? You're gonna have to drop some coin on a fast intake, throttle, injectors etc... Complete LS3 manifold, throttle body and injectors can be had for $300 online. Cathedrals can make great power, but your gonna have to spend some cash to be on par IMO
Old 01-07-2011, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by briancb1
These thread get real old. The whole point of LS3 heads over aftermarket is the value for performance. End the comparison right there.

Besides, get a decent set of cathedrals and what manifold are you going to use? You're gonna have to drop some coin on a fast intake, throttle, injectors etc... Complete LS3 manifold, throttle body and injectors can be had for $300 online. Cathedrals can make great power, but your gonna have to spend some cash to be on par IMO
They aren't the end of heads by any means. But a PROPERLY sized cam and 500rwhp has been made on stock casting L92s on a 6.2 with a great curve. I've never seen Cathedrals do that even with aftermarket heads on a 6.2 sized engine. Not even with all the fancy FAST intakes and such. But, you don't do your homework first and that L92 build is gonna run like *******.
Old 01-08-2011, 12:44 AM
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I have L92 heads on the 6.0 in my G8 and it puts out 362hp and 385tq stock. Replace the stock cam (200/208 .472/.479) with a (224/230 .581/.590) cam and it puts out over 500hp and 500tq with headers and a tune. Here's a dyno chart that shows this.

Stock L92 heads on a 6.0 block.



Yellow .......Cam 224/230 .581/.590 112 [HP]
Blue .......Cam 224/230 .581/.590 112 [TQ]
Red .......Cam 220/220 .581/.581 112 [HP]
Green .......Cam 220/220 .581/.581 112 [TQ]
Old 01-08-2011, 01:56 AM
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^^^ Looks like a desktop dyno to me
Old 01-11-2011, 10:33 PM
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^^^No way in hell do i believe that, it looks like he drew your dyno curves with microsoft paint.
Old 01-11-2011, 10:59 PM
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Here's a dyno of the same motor in a GTO, with the same heads and cam Mr Non-believer. Mind you this is rwhp and the dyno above is crank hp, so when you consider driveline loss that puts the motor well over 500hp at the crank. Oh and by the way, the guy that posted this in the G8 forum DOES know what he's talking about, so this isn't some made up ****.

Real world RWHP results in a 2006 GTO
LS2 6.0 Block
Cam 224/230 .581/.590 114
CR 10.4 (unmilled, untouched L92 heads)

Old 01-12-2011, 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by RedHotG8
Here's a dyno of the same motor in a GTO, with the same heads and cam Mr Non-believer. Mind you this is rwhp and the dyno above is crank hp, so when you consider driveline loss that puts the motor well over 500hp at the crank. Oh and by the way, the guy that posted this in the G8 forum DOES know what he's talking about, so this isn't some made up ****.

Real world RWHP results in a 2006 GTO
LS2 6.0 Block
Cam 224/230 .581/.590 114
CR 10.4 (unmilled, untouched L92 heads)
It's not made up **** but your statement wasn't very clear. The problem in your original post is you're seemingly drawing some comparison between your rear wheel numbers with someone else's numbers at the crank. You first stated your rear-wheel numbers, 362hp & 385tq, and then say "change the cam and it puts out over 500hp and 500tq". If someone asked me what kind of hp gain I got from a camshaft, I wouldn't quote my before numbers at the wheels and then give after numbers at the crank. For the sake of consistency you would compare your 362 rwhp to this other G8's 452 rwhp.
Old 01-12-2011, 10:01 AM
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The G8 is rated 362hp from the factory and that is at the crank, not rwhp from an in car dyno.
Old 01-12-2011, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RedHotG8
The G8 is rated 362hp from the factory and that is at the crank, not rwhp from an in car dyno.
Sorry. I was thinking of rwhp numbers for the LS3 vs. crank numbers for the L76.
Old 01-12-2011, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bozzfraud
The first round is on me......
Bozzfraud, when you actually put your LS3 heads (with sodium filled valves) on your junkyard picked LS2, come back and chat. Until then you remain a poser who as best I can determine has never actually worked on any LS cam/head combination.

p.s. what are the specs on the stage II "bozzhawgn" that supposedly put down 473 rwhp?
Old 01-12-2011, 05:40 PM
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I'm so confused.
Old 01-12-2011, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bozzfraud
We know the best you can determine and cognitive level, you proved that here.... you don't even know this:
Chief, I have no problem admitting I didn't what know direction the crank pulley rotated. I wanted to turn the motor over by hand and set the lifter pre-load going through the firing order. You thought I was asking about the proper way to turn a motor over. Your response was the first of many clues that you've never worked on any LS, much less the junkyard LS2 that you supposedly put down 473 rwhp with using your "bozzfraudin" stage II cam. You're a poser of the highest order who's been called out on multiple boards for not being able to produce a dyno chart of his 473 rwhp LS2. Why? Because it's pure fiction. Plain and simple, you're a bullshit artist.
Originally Posted by bozzfraud
My info is public knowledge nothing to hide,my the cams I run are my business..... we have had alot of success and I am not sorry for not posting all of my specs, thats my busniess and no true racer tells you everything.. I am not a sponsor/vendor nor do I get any money for any information I give of share.... So what ever I choose to share as I have with some guys who really want to learn I do, but guys who want max effort or dyno cams, I don't even have conversations with. .... but you on the other hand, keep lying and making stuff up..... ....... ...lol Show me a post you have ever made with any technical know how or requires a level of abstute qualitative reasoning...... Son, I am on another level, we are taking 40-50 year old cars and doing complete converstions..... So when you even get a pea sized point of information to be able to do anything of this nature, then you can speak....
Posting all your specs? A real racer? ROFL. You have no specs. You parrot things you read on the intarweb or glean from the people in this forum who really know what they're doing. You yap an awful lot for someone that's never replaced their stock LS2 heads or cam yet. You drop a stock junkyard LS2 in your Chevelle less than a year ago and now you're a "real racer" specing cams?

Let's take a look at the caliber of real racer that we're talking about here - You replaced your BBC with a junkyard LS2 because you couldn't fix a few leaking freeze or make any power with the 468 cubic inch motor someone else built for you. Now you're specing cams and doing "complete conversions"? HAHAHAHAHA.

Here's a hilarious exchange between you and your engine builder -
Lets start off by saying were dealing with John Singleton railroad worker from Houston Texas. John is a former customer of mine, this is true. Johns engine did have a freeze plug that leaked, this is true, and it should have been caught on the dyno test but wasnt, my fault. The problems all started with the install, the first call I received was the engine wont start, I said well did you get the MSD wired correct? The second call was I burned my plug wires on the headers, to me this seamed strange he would call to tell me he had burned his plugs wires, but I said ok you will have replace them. The third call, this carbs not right, I said well have you looked at the power valve, he acted real strange about tearing into the carb, I said have someone take a look at it. The forth call, my engine has a popping sound coming from the heater hose, I said at this point realizing John had no idea of what was going on here, take the car to a good shop, AND HAVE THE SHOP CALL ME JOHN, I had to call John back to get the shops phone number and I made the call over to Alans repair shop, and this is what I was told: Quote this guys a ****** idiot, hes running 14 psi of fuel pressure, theres teflon tape in the needles and seats, he has wire nuts on the MSD 6AL, the pump leaking on the trans, BUT THE ENGINE RUNS FINE AFTER WE FIXED THE CARB SITUATION, the install is a horrendous mess, end quote. At this as an engine builder you realize the horrible mistake you have made, all the warning signs were there, not being able to tell me the timing, not being able to adjust the carb, basically no experiance with this type of machinery. I finally received a call from John telling me he fixed his popping noise by installing the water pump bypass hose, which I told him to do from the start, at that point I told John, when I sell an engine to a customer I assume the customer has some knowledge of how a GM muscle is put together. This is when John started talking all his lies and bullshit on various forums, Waranty void idiot. First, most of my dyno numbers are verified by the former Super Flow employee Harold Bettes. I offer a performance verification on all my engines, by actually running the engine in my own car, who does this? Its outrageous you and 71 chevy bring Alan and his 71 corvette into this, this corvette has a 9.8 comp hyd roller 238@.050 cam steel GM heads, air condition, power steering, power brakes, steel rallye rims with big fat front tires, 3730 running weight, runs 10.99@123.88 on its second pass ever down a dragstrip, of couse a car setup like that will not show the 657 HP it made on two different dynos, but my chevelle weighs 3700 pounds, why dont you two ****** ****** back that mouth with some money and Ill come down there and back up the HP, but youll never do that will you. Now for every body out we have found some pictures of Johns donk 68 chevelle running on 22s, how dare you say a ****** thing about Alans car, look at this PIECE OF ****, the pictures say it ALL. John bring out your donk mobile with the LS sporting your over drive trans and back it with money if you got the ***** *****.
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...2&postcount=48
You sound like a top flight mechanic who really knows what they're doing! I'm sure your "bozzhawgn" grinds are going to set the performance world on fire... but maybe you should actually try changing a cam first.
Old 01-12-2011, 08:38 PM
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You guys need to take this PM's instead of mucking up this thread with all this mumbo jumbo.
Old 01-12-2011, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bozzfraud
Thanks for highlighting the point.......
If anyone bought an engine and less than 1 month later it leaked coolant out the freeze plugs and oil out the rear main seal, its not a issue of can I fix it, the issue is it was built shitty..... And he admitted that was his fault, and no he did not garuntee the warranty. poor business... That has nothing to do with or your ability to cut and paste..... Coolant leaking out of the freeze plugs is from weak cylinders shifting and not properly sonic checking the block or movement or poor mechanical assembly which is way over your head..... This is why I never bought engines long distance and the first time I did the block didn't last...... That has nothing to do with my mechanical alptitude....... It was a shitty build...... Then we found out that this guy was running scam all the time... And when we found out, we busted him and are still seeking legal action....
You had an engine built for you because you were incapable of doing so yourself. Then you couldn't fix its leaks or get it running correctly so your engine builder told you to take it to someone that actually knew how to work on a car. The mechanic you took the car to told your engine builder "this guys a ****** idiot, hes running 14 psi of fuel pressure, theres teflon tape in the needles and seats, he has wire nuts on the MSD 6AL, the pump leaking on the trans, BUT THE ENGINE RUNS FINE AFTER WE FIXED THE CARB SITUATION, the install is a horrendous mess." Now, that's real mechanical "alptitude". I believe that's when you were dubbed "wire nut man" on that particular forum.

Then, after pulling your leaky BBC that you never could get running correctly, you tell your engine builder that you replaced it with a LS2 that's putting down 473 rwhp. Immediately, several people in the forum threw the BS flag and requested that you to post a dyno sheet that you've never been able to do. Why? Because it's pure fiction. You haven't been able to provide a dyno sheet for months.
Originally Posted by bozzfraud
I WILL POST THE DYNO WHEN YOU POST THE ABOVE PROOF !

WHAT ARE YOU HIDDING MARK?

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...&postcount=446
You're a know nothing poser. Stop flapping your gums until you actually change a cam and set of heads.


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