Arp crank bolt keeps coming loose???
02-24-2011, 02:36 AM
#21
Put the ARP lube between the bolt and washer and under the washer. Put red loctite on the threads. Torque it to 245 lbs ft.
Last time I talked to ARP that's what they said.
I did mine out of the car bolted to the K member. I maxed out my 150 lb ft torque wrench then put on a breaker bar with four foot of pipe and hung on the bastard until I couldn't tighten it anymore.
So far so good.
Last time I talked to ARP that's what they said.
I did mine out of the car bolted to the K member. I maxed out my 150 lb ft torque wrench then put on a breaker bar with four foot of pipe and hung on the bastard until I couldn't tighten it anymore.
So far so good.
02-24-2011, 08:30 AM
#23
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I feel like the pulley is spinning, Ive never had this problem before over the years. Could always get it torqued to 210ft lbs and never had any issues. That was cam only, then I changed to a procharger set-up making 650rwhp and pinned the crank with the ati balancer, again didnt get it to the 250lbs but never had any issues. Now with a professional products sfi balancer with maybe 1k miles on the new build it keeps coming out. It seems like the balancer is coming apart, just noticed this last night. There is a red ring that has allen head bolts holding it to the pulley and they were all loose. But looking at the pulley there is def something wrong. Was going to pin this one last night but noticed that and gave up cause I was pissed. Going to take off pulley today and see whats up. Oh and if it matters the car is making 900rwhp.
02-24-2011, 09:31 PM
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And the torque spec is 240(to seat the balancer), loosen the bolt and torque to 37 ft/lbs.
OR...
Do the 240 pass w the old bolt, and install the GM bolt and torque to 37 ft/lbs.
OR...
Do the 240 pass w the old bolt, and install the GM bolt and torque to 37 ft/lbs.
02-25-2011, 10:24 AM
#26
I feel like the pulley is spinning, Ive never had this problem before over the years. Could always get it torqued to 210ft lbs and never had any issues. That was cam only, then I changed to a procharger set-up making 650rwhp and pinned the crank with the ati balancer, again didnt get it to the 250lbs but never had any issues. Now with a professional products sfi balancer with maybe 1k miles on the new build it keeps coming out. It seems like the balancer is coming apart, just noticed this last night. There is a red ring that has allen head bolts holding it to the pulley and they were all loose. But looking at the pulley there is def something wrong. Was going to pin this one last night but noticed that and gave up cause I was pissed. Going to take off pulley today and see whats up. Oh and if it matters the car is making 900rwhp.
With the projected output of that engine, whoever built it should have installed the balancer on a keyway. Whether it was a crank with a woodruff key or the dowel pin rig, it should have been done during assembly without a second thought to it. Hell, there are SBC and BBC cranks out there specifically designed for blower applications that have DUAL keyways. Personally I would do it just for piece of mind on any engine and without a doubt on anything above 600hp.
For some reason 268ft/lbs seems to come to mind for the ARP bolt with ARP moly assembly lube. That is where I put mine and no problems to date with the ARP lube. I have built a dozens of engines and Loctite has never made its way into my garage. I take care of crank bolt using a Snap-On 3/4" drive torque wrench while the engine is on the stand with the crankshaft bolted to the block using a fixture I made. I have never used a GM crank bolt.
Last edited by melsie68; 02-25-2011 at 10:34 AM.
02-26-2011, 05:22 PM
#31
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Didnt know there was problems with PP balancer, sold the ati with my procharger kit and after talking to many guys with turbo set-ups I didnt feel like I needed it. Many have done builds without them but its just my luck. Anyways got the pulley off today and Yeah its Junk, it was spinning the center section.
