crakhead

iTrader: (7)

When i had the valve covers off i checked the valve seals, they are in mint condition, they only have 5000 miles or less on them.

If it were a valve seal it would only be at that particular cylinder, not all eight, in my 40 years as a mechanic / fabricator / welder / engine builder i have never seen all the valve seals go bad at the same time, but you never know now a days, there could always be a bad batch. specially if they are made in butt fruk India, or china for all it matters.

But these are Viton valve seals made in the good Ole USA...

The Rocker studs came pre installed from the factory, as these Heads were brand spanking new, but i also checked them and they looked on the money.

When I ported the heads i used four 12" long deburing tools of different head shapes.

Then i followed by a rotary sand paper roll to smooth out the runners. there is no possible way i could of taken so mutch metal and not seen the Rocker Stud threads...that only happens when you get an aggressive CNC head porting job.

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

What kind of air filter setup do you have?

Higgs Boson

iTrader: (3)

You are letting the crankcase vent itself and the tiny holes you are basically venting through are probably not sufficient. I would not be surprised if crankcase pressure is too high and it's pushing past your rings. How do you exhaust tips look? I bet they're black inside. Wipe it with your finger and smell it. Oil? Do you have cats?

I have tried 100 different PVC/crank evac combos including a vacuum pump (which works fabulously) and have settled on a big filter in place of the oil cap and the stock LS6 pcv outlet, pcv valve, running into the stock location behind the TB. Virtually no oil goes through there (the problems were mostly through the fresh air line anyway) and it pulls fresh air through the oil cap filter for balance.

The point is there is still POSITIVE crank ventilation. Something pulling the pressure out, not just letting it push out through tiny filter, tiny tube.

The vacuum pump is badass though. I just took it off because I drive the car way too hard for too long to feel good about running it full time.

Anyways.

crakhead

iTrader: (7)

No I don't have Cats.

I know about crankcase ventilation, prior to this i purchased a crankcase evacuation kit from summit, it goes welded at an angle to the exhaust pipe and then i ran a 5/8" hose up to the lifter valley tube and this thing sucked like a ten dollar *****.

I also have a BIG filter in place of the oil cap.

My tips are not black cause i run e85 moonshine, this fuel burns nice and clean.

I have an LS2, with Ported LS3 Heads and Ported LS3 Intake manifold all the porting was done by me, no CNC program here, even though they are coming out with some nice CNC programs, Richard from West Coast, Mast motorsports and a few others, but the ones i mentioned i have met them personally at the PRI show in Orlando and have taken there time to sit down with me and chew the fat with me for a while...

The way my car came set up from factory when i purchased it new with 4 miles on the clock, it came with the lifter valley cover tube connected to the Throttle body.

the little vent tube on the valve cover ran to the intake charge pipe.

that was then, I like You have tried 100 different PVC/crank evac combos.

I have opened up my engine four times for various reasons, cam swaps, the new combo i presently have, etc,etc. but this last time there was just to much oil in there, but I'll tell you something, it did not hurt the performance of the car, she still got up and went.

I know thees cars are prone to oiling issues, but i am determined to figure out a way from letting all that oil seep into my Heads.

That's why i started this Thread, hoping that some one more knowledgeable than me has the answer, Thanks for your input Higgs Boson I've come to realize that I am not the only one with this issue.

Regards,
crakhead

Higgs Boson

iTrader: (3)

well, the only thing I can think of is build it tight, vent/suck the crankcase somewhere other than the intake manifold, and use something that provides enough pressure to fully seal the crankcase with negative pressure like a vacuum pump. i can sell you my kit if you want. :-)

crakhead

iTrader: (7)

well i put back the oil cap thinking it was one of the culprits, but your saying to keep the big air breather in place of the valve cover oil cap to help balance the negative crankcase pressure, i hope i got that clear, anyway.

IDRIVEAG8GT

Ok. My motor is currently out of my G8 and I'm going to do a full rebuild. I'm going with Wiseco pistons, Wiseco FI rings and , but after 5,000 miles or so after this rebuild, I'll pull the Maggie back off and take a peak at my intake ports and see if they've still got oil in them.... I'm starting to think intake gaskets could be a probable cause too since the oil goes all around the perimeter of the cylinder head faces on mine. The actual intake port runners look pretty clean though.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

THIS! Need full cam specs.

gtotoocool1

iTrader: (6)

i was thinking reversion could be the culprit..with 9* of overlap and that big intake valve i could definately see that happening,especially at low rpms.

crakhead

iTrader: (7)

The cam that's on the car right now, I purchased from you guys a few years ago....232/234 .595 .598 112 Lsa. XER281HR-12....the thing is, i have changed the heads to the L92's, the same goes for the Intake, LS3....all has been Ported by hand.....and i am running e85 for the last year.

Oh' by the way, this is on an LS2 GTO....



Regards,
crakhead

crakhead

iTrader: (7)

Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed
THIS! Need full cam specs.

I gave you the cam specs....what happened? mouse got your tounge....

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

That or it was the weekend

We have not experienced any significant/detrimental intake reversion with the TorquerV2 on ANY intake centerline, so I would bet against that being the issue unless yours is installed rather retarded (late IVC).It could be a combination of worn short-block and IVC/reversion, but it's hard to say by diagnosing over the internet.

For the record, overlap doesn't really increase intake reversion, the late intake valve closing does.

crakhead

iTrader: (7)

Thank you very much for your positive input....the engine only has 12.000 miles on it. so it's solid...all the fasteners are ARP, lubed and torque to specs.

I used a degree wheel when installing the cam, it's on a 110 ICL. in other words it's on the money...I did not go the dot to dot on the timing chain.

I took of the Head that had the most oil in it to see for myself what the hell is going on, but I'll be darn, I can't find nothing wrong with it..

Seals are on the money, same goes for the guides, my PAC springs are mint, push rods don't even have a mark on them, and the Roller Rockers, well they are still ROCKING....
The studs are tight and sealed, and not protruding into the runners.

Even with all that oil that was in there the car made some good power.

515Rwhp------------468Rwtq... mind you, it's on moonshine....with 34° advance timing...and no Knock Retard.....

Again Matt thanks for answering back. I'll be Barking at yall soon.

Regards,
crakhead

youngb

It's coming from the spring seats where chevy built in a boss that protrudes into the intake port. An overly aggressive porting will make the material under the seat to thin and suck oil into the intake. The cracks that result can be almost imperceptible.

MasterZ

iTrader: (1)

Looks like I am joining the battle against oil in the intake runners with yall!

Car was running great, I took down the top end to swap from factory lifters to a set of Morel streets. Also while in there I sent the heads off to get ported.

After reinstalling everything the car looked like a mosquito truck blowing smoke. I pulled the intake and the runners were full of oil. It was even pooled on the valves that were closed. I sealed my intake rocker studs as per the head porter and still had issues. Got to checking and with porting the heads it is possible to get close to the valve cover bolt holes. I sprayed a little carb cleaner in the valve cover bolt hole, and what do ya know. It was trickling down the top of the intake port. 5 out of the 8 were leaking. Figured I found the problem. Re-sealed all the rocker studs, and also the valve cover bolts. No bannana's, it is still leaking

Pulled the intake for inspection, that helped a good bit but I am still having oil issues.

Interesting find, how can I check for this and how can it be fixed?


car was cammed before the lifter upgrade and ported heads... without any issues..

MasterZ

iTrader: (1)

well it appears you are correct for my situation. #4 cyl is leaking from the springs seat into the intake runner. There is no hole or crack visible but squirting a little carb cleaner on the spring seat and you can see it oozing into the port.

So now the hunt is on to repair the issue and/or replace the head.

youngb

Glad the info helped. That problem can be a beast to figure out... believe me I know!

MasterZ

iTrader: (1)

yes it was.... I must have pulled the intake like 3-4 times looking for leaks..

The heads are now back at the head porters shop. I gotta hand it to him, he has gone above and beyone helping me take care of the problem. Should be repaired shortly and headed back to me soon.

stevieturbo

I'd say it's just a common problem.

After a stripdown due to cam bearings moving. I have the same. No overlap as I'm using a GT9 cam
All 8 intake ports have a coating of oil, which extends into the intake ( Vic Jnr ). My crankcase vents go nowhere near the intake system, and the elbow and TB are spotlessly clean

Plugs are clean and dry, but intake ports certainly are not. Chambers would also show dampness.

In my case, I suspect some is getting past the rings. Heads are aftermarket and less than 4000 miles since a refresh by the manufacturer, so the heads are not the problem.

Although Ive had this on a few engines with different heads over the years.

Very weird !!

427LS7HCI

subscribing. same issue here