Future Plans (Engine Advice Inquiry)
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Future Plans (Engine Advice Inquiry) Hello fellow enthusiasts. I have a request for some knowledgeable input and advice. I have a full bolt on 2001 M6 Chevy Camaro Z-28 with 71k original. The car has been garaged, kept clean and always treated/kept up very well. Synthetic oil since it was new....I am graduating college in May and am going to start generating some income. However I have been M.I.A. on the performance world for about two years considering I have not had money to do anything serious with my car.....
I am having issues on what route to take with my engine after the next twelve months....
My current mods are: (Lid, Lt headers, 3inch ORY, no cats, 3inch electric cutout, flowmaster cb, PCM tune, sfc's and stb)
My main issue is: I do not know whether to keep my LS1, bore it to a 383, or just get a 6.0 block...However I do know I want to definitely go with forced induction/supercharger, don't have the money for an Eaton.....I do know I need a bigger displacement for the desired numbers. I want to be around 600+rwhp
{My main concern is reliability and longevity}
What is the best bang for the buck as far as horsepower gains and reliability??
I know if I keep my LS1 I will have to re-do the bottom end probably, is 71k too much?? I will prob end up doing all this in a year and it will probably have around 80k then until I purchase another car for a dd and the end of this summer...I have heard recent great things for the last few years about the 6.0 block
Your help, input, and advice is all greatly appreciated. Thank you
I am having issues on what route to take with my engine after the next twelve months....
My current mods are: (Lid, Lt headers, 3inch ORY, no cats, 3inch electric cutout, flowmaster cb, PCM tune, sfc's and stb)
My main issue is: I do not know whether to keep my LS1, bore it to a 383, or just get a 6.0 block...However I do know I want to definitely go with forced induction/supercharger, don't have the money for an Eaton.....I do know I need a bigger displacement for the desired numbers. I want to be around 600+rwhp
{My main concern is reliability and longevity}
What is the best bang for the buck as far as horsepower gains and reliability??
I know if I keep my LS1 I will have to re-do the bottom end probably, is 71k too much?? I will prob end up doing all this in a year and it will probably have around 80k then until I purchase another car for a dd and the end of this summer...I have heard recent great things for the last few years about the 6.0 block
Your help, input, and advice is all greatly appreciated. Thank you
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Ok thats what I was leaning towards. Where are some good places I could go about inquiring about this block?? And also someone experienced of the matter I could talk to? I have been out of the performance forum world for a few years now.
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lol Do you have any referrals around the Chicagoland area?? However I definitely would like to talk to a tech down by you in Virginia for advice
I def agree with you, However 600rwhp is what I want at least..but down the road have future ambitions of being able to up the boost. In the end I really want to build a reliable blower motor
I def agree with you, However 600rwhp is what I want at least..but down the road have future ambitions of being able to up the boost. In the end I really want to build a reliable blower motor
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lol Do you have any referrals around the Chicagoland area?? However I definitely would like to talk to a tech down by you in Virginia for advice
I def agree with you, However 600rwhp is what I want at least..but down the road have future ambitions of being able to up the boost. In the end I really want to build a reliable blower motor
I def agree with you, However 600rwhp is what I want at least..but down the road have future ambitions of being able to up the boost. In the end I really want to build a reliable blower motor
http://www.aesracing.net/
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I'm with this guy here.
Take your 346 block, send it to ERL and have it transformed into a Superdeck 427 or 440. Put a set of MAST LS7 heads on top and you have a foundation that can take a good shot of nitrous in the future should you get bored with 600 rwhp. While not a cheap build, it will be stone reliable, make great power and most everything you now own will fit including your A/C. Best part is with an LS7 intake, it will look "stock" to the Ford guys.
This is my current plan - too bad I can't afford it now.
Take your 346 block, send it to ERL and have it transformed into a Superdeck 427 or 440. Put a set of MAST LS7 heads on top and you have a foundation that can take a good shot of nitrous in the future should you get bored with 600 rwhp. While not a cheap build, it will be stone reliable, make great power and most everything you now own will fit including your A/C. Best part is with an LS7 intake, it will look "stock" to the Ford guys.
This is my current plan - too bad I can't afford it now.
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Brett Foote I live in Detroit, btw....if you do decide to contact VSpeed, Ed or Shawn will help out for sure....feel free to use my phone if you'd like
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From: South Chicago
AES is near Chicago, they are a sponsor here, and have a great reputation in the LSX community.
http://www.aesracing.net/
http://www.aesracing.net/
I'm with this guy here.
Take your 346 block, send it to ERL and have it transformed into a Superdeck 427 or 440. Put a set of MAST LS7 heads on top and you have a foundation that can take a good shot of nitrous in the future should you get bored with 600 rwhp. While not a cheap build, it will be stone reliable, make great power and most everything you now own will fit including your A/C. Best part is with an LS7 intake, it will look "stock" to the Ford guys.
This is my current plan - too bad I can't afford it now.
Take your 346 block, send it to ERL and have it transformed into a Superdeck 427 or 440. Put a set of MAST LS7 heads on top and you have a foundation that can take a good shot of nitrous in the future should you get bored with 600 rwhp. While not a cheap build, it will be stone reliable, make great power and most everything you now own will fit including your A/C. Best part is with an LS7 intake, it will look "stock" to the Ford guys.
This is my current plan - too bad I can't afford it now.
In Chi-town, I'd check out AES or SpeedInc and if you have few extra bux lying around, LPE in Decatur is definately one of the best.
I live in Detroit, btw....if you do decide to contact VSpeed, Ed or Shawn will help out for sure....feel free to use my phone if you'd like
I live in Detroit, btw....if you do decide to contact VSpeed, Ed or Shawn will help out for sure....feel free to use my phone if you'd like
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Take a look at ERL website. Superdeck in short block is $6500 on your core. This includes billet caps, ARP studs and a solid rotating assembly. A 4.125 inch bore 427 is not a cheap build but the ERL foundation looks pretty strong. They build them for NA and FI applications.
If you are set on FI, you really don't need a 427. The new AES 390 short block looks like a great foundation for a FI engine and there are lots of options here too.
Don't forget to save a ton of money for your drive train and suspension - 600+ rwhp will find the weakest point very quickly
If you are set on FI, you really don't need a 427. The new AES 390 short block looks like a great foundation for a FI engine and there are lots of options here too.
Don't forget to save a ton of money for your drive train and suspension - 600+ rwhp will find the weakest point very quickly
Tony Mamo sells a 416 that's 650+ fwhp (LS3 w/4" stroke)
Next R&D "bullet" about to hit the dyno.... - LS1TECH
An AES or Kurt Urban 370 (.030 over 6.0), with freshened stock 317's (stock 6.0), an LS6 cam, and a 76GTS turbo, with Kentucky Turbo kit (don't be fooled by the name) will do what you want and be reliable. Your LS1 built for boost will do it too.
Do a search for NicD build thread. His new PB 9.17 post is a few pages down on the FI board. (347 w/76GTS)
You'll need an aftermarket rear axle and suspension with a built T56 and twin disc clutch or a 4L80E with a shift kit at this level. Figure on $900ish for a converter or clutch.
Just skip the 4L60E unless you NEVER plan on slicks or DR's. Maybe not then either.
And another $1k for the fuel system......
Next R&D "bullet" about to hit the dyno.... - LS1TECH
An AES or Kurt Urban 370 (.030 over 6.0), with freshened stock 317's (stock 6.0), an LS6 cam, and a 76GTS turbo, with Kentucky Turbo kit (don't be fooled by the name) will do what you want and be reliable. Your LS1 built for boost will do it too.
Do a search for NicD build thread. His new PB 9.17 post is a few pages down on the FI board. (347 w/76GTS)
You'll need an aftermarket rear axle and suspension with a built T56 and twin disc clutch or a 4L80E with a shift kit at this level. Figure on $900ish for a converter or clutch.
Just skip the 4L60E unless you NEVER plan on slicks or DR's. Maybe not then either.
And another $1k for the fuel system......
Last edited by TurboS10; Apr 20, 2011 at 12:43 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: South Chicago
Take a look at ERL website. Superdeck in short block is $6500 on your core. This includes billet caps, ARP studs and a solid rotating assembly. A 4.125 inch bore 427 is not a cheap build but the ERL foundation looks pretty strong. They build them for NA and FI applications.
If you are set on FI, you really don't need a 427. The new AES 390 short block looks like a great foundation for a FI engine and there are lots of options here too.
Don't forget to save a ton of money for your drive train and suspension - 600+ rwhp will find the weakest point very quickly
If you are set on FI, you really don't need a 427. The new AES 390 short block looks like a great foundation for a FI engine and there are lots of options here too.
Don't forget to save a ton of money for your drive train and suspension - 600+ rwhp will find the weakest point very quickly
Tony Mamo sells a 416 that's 650+ fwhp (LS3 w/4" stroke)
Next R&D "bullet" about to hit the dyno.... - LS1TECH
An AES or Kurt Urban 370 (.030 over 6.0), with freshened stock 317's (stock 6.0), an LS6 cam, and a 76GTS turbo, with Kentucky Turbo kit (don't be fooled by the name) will do what you want and be reliable. Your LS1 built for boost will do it too.
Do a search for NicD build thread. His new PB 9.17 post is a few pages down on the FI board. (347 w/76GTS)
You'll need an aftermarket rear axle and suspension with a built T56 and twin disc clutch or a 4L80E with a shift kit at this level. Figure on $900ish for a converter or clutch.
Just skip the 4L60E unless you NEVER plan on slicks or DR's. Maybe not then either.
And another $1k for the fuel system......
Next R&D "bullet" about to hit the dyno.... - LS1TECH
An AES or Kurt Urban 370 (.030 over 6.0), with freshened stock 317's (stock 6.0), an LS6 cam, and a 76GTS turbo, with Kentucky Turbo kit (don't be fooled by the name) will do what you want and be reliable. Your LS1 built for boost will do it too.
Do a search for NicD build thread. His new PB 9.17 post is a few pages down on the FI board. (347 w/76GTS)
You'll need an aftermarket rear axle and suspension with a built T56 and twin disc clutch or a 4L80E with a shift kit at this level. Figure on $900ish for a converter or clutch.
Just skip the 4L60E unless you NEVER plan on slicks or DR's. Maybe not then either.
And another $1k for the fuel system......
Do you think with having 71k miles on my LS1, and itll prob have round 85k in two years when I do this, would it be an issue for future reliability and longevity...Since its an aluminum block over iron
