Ring job but without honing - anybody ever done one?
07-11-2011, 05:16 PM
#21
I have done a ton of ring jobs under warranty for GM and never even touched the cylinder walls. All we are supposed to do is put rings on them. As posted GM did not want a hone used at all. Long as the cross hatching is still there you are fine. To all the people saying you can do this in the car........obviously it would be easier, but you don't have to. I dont know what kinda of car his motor is in, but if he can get the oil pan off then he's good to go.
07-12-2011, 12:56 AM
#24
On The Tree
07-13-2011, 03:50 PM
#25
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We did this to #7 & 8 LS1 in an 01 camaro a while back. Limited on time. Knowing it wasn't the best way to do it. Dropped the k member. Pulled the pan. We Used a hand drill and just hit it enough to break the glaze. Used WD40 on the hone. And didn't soak it down real heavy. That kept the gritty oil from running down all over the crank. Then cleaned the cylinders with tranny fluid and paper towels. Kept doing that until there was no black on the paper towel.
After we got it back together, we ran it up to temp, and then changed the oil.
This worked well. Car ran a 9.50 last weekend
After we got it back together, we ran it up to temp, and then changed the oil.
This worked well. Car ran a 9.50 last weekend
07-13-2011, 04:01 PM
#26
If I really had to hone like this, I'd tape up the crank journal and mask off the bottom of the cylinder at the last ~1" that the rings don't contact.
With that said, I'd just wipe down the cylinders with acetone followed by ATF until white paper towels stay white, then apply a film of oil.
With that said, I'd just wipe down the cylinders with acetone followed by ATF until white paper towels stay white, then apply a film of oil.
07-13-2011, 04:05 PM
#27
The OP hasn't reported an oil consumption issue. The GM warranty program that replaced one ring without a hone job was to overcome oil consumption, not a loss of compression.
I think the best course of action is to yank the motor, strip it down yourself to save time and cost and have a machine shop perform a proper hone job and then a thorough and proper cleaning/washing. The hone work should be as per the ring manufacturer.
I think the best course of action is to yank the motor, strip it down yourself to save time and cost and have a machine shop perform a proper hone job and then a thorough and proper cleaning/washing. The hone work should be as per the ring manufacturer.
07-13-2011, 04:42 PM
#28
Staging Lane
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Nevermind.... Well it turned out to be something of a moot point after I pulled the driver side head off last night and discovered this in my #5 cylinder:
Given the location of the crack I think it probably explains why I wasn't having any issues with oil in my coolant (or vice-versa) since it doesn't look like it's adjacent to a cooling jacket.
I naively thought I'd be able to have just that one cylinder repaired (like I did with #7 two years ago) but was told by one machine shop I talked to that after it's been resleeved once you have to do all four on the one side as it isn't possible to get them aligned properly now.
I was considering buying a sleeved block from ERL but they didn't have one in stock and said it would be at least 8 weeks or longer to repair mine. Given that, I'm just gonna have the #7 cylinder repaired on my backup block and then transfer over the entire rotating assembly.
Oh, the perils of drag racing....
Given the location of the crack I think it probably explains why I wasn't having any issues with oil in my coolant (or vice-versa) since it doesn't look like it's adjacent to a cooling jacket.
I naively thought I'd be able to have just that one cylinder repaired (like I did with #7 two years ago) but was told by one machine shop I talked to that after it's been resleeved once you have to do all four on the one side as it isn't possible to get them aligned properly now.
I was considering buying a sleeved block from ERL but they didn't have one in stock and said it would be at least 8 weeks or longer to repair mine. Given that, I'm just gonna have the #7 cylinder repaired on my backup block and then transfer over the entire rotating assembly.
Oh, the perils of drag racing....
08-24-2011, 07:15 PM
#32
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You can rering without honing no problem at all. Use cast iron rings, They will seat into the wall very good . Honing creates larger piston to wall and ring gap.If your not using cast iron, then hone as little as possible.
GOD Bless you in JESUS name.
M.Genzano
GOD Bless you in JESUS name.
M.Genzano
08-24-2011, 07:52 PM
#33
You sir need to read the thread. You'll discover that the thread has moved in a different direction. It's like you've responded to the thread title without looking at it's progress. Seriously, there's even pictures that says volumes without words.
08-25-2011, 04:26 PM
#36
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Well it turned out to be something of a moot point after I pulled the driver side head off last night and discovered this in my #5 cylinder:
Given the location of the crack I think it probably explains why I wasn't having any issues with oil in my coolant (or vice-versa) since it doesn't look like it's adjacent to a cooling jacket.
I naively thought I'd be able to have just that one cylinder repaired (like I did with #7 two years ago) but was told by one machine shop I talked to that after it's been resleeved once you have to do all four on the one side as it isn't possible to get them aligned properly now.
I was considering buying a sleeved block from ERL but they didn't have one in stock and said it would be at least 8 weeks or longer to repair mine. Given that, I'm just gonna have the #7 cylinder repaired on my backup block and then transfer over the entire rotating assembly.
Oh, the perils of drag racing....
Given the location of the crack I think it probably explains why I wasn't having any issues with oil in my coolant (or vice-versa) since it doesn't look like it's adjacent to a cooling jacket.
I naively thought I'd be able to have just that one cylinder repaired (like I did with #7 two years ago) but was told by one machine shop I talked to that after it's been resleeved once you have to do all four on the one side as it isn't possible to get them aligned properly now.
I was considering buying a sleeved block from ERL but they didn't have one in stock and said it would be at least 8 weeks or longer to repair mine. Given that, I'm just gonna have the #7 cylinder repaired on my backup block and then transfer over the entire rotating assembly.
Oh, the perils of drag racing....
