LQ4 Millage ??
LQ4 Millage ?? Ok, I did a search and did not come up with exactly what I was looking for unless I missed it.
I was calling around salvage yards and all the lq4/9's have around 150,000 or more miles. My plan is to build a lq4, stock bottem end with heads and cam. Since I do not want to mess with the bottom end would this be to many miles?
What would be the most miles you guys would go if your keeping the short block stock?
If I end up getting a lq4 with over 100/150,000 miles would would be the minimum of work done to the short block.
Thanks for your help. Sorry for the newb ?
I was calling around salvage yards and all the lq4/9's have around 150,000 or more miles. My plan is to build a lq4, stock bottem end with heads and cam. Since I do not want to mess with the bottom end would this be to many miles?
What would be the most miles you guys would go if your keeping the short block stock?
If I end up getting a lq4 with over 100/150,000 miles would would be the minimum of work done to the short block.
Thanks for your help. Sorry for the newb ?
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
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It kind of depends what you want to do. If you buy a motor that high in mileage the first thing I would do is a compression and leak down test to see what condition the rings are in. We have a number of customers running around with high mileage heads/cam motors you just have to make sure you replace the parts that will really see the abuse. I always recommend customers replace lifters, oil pump, and timing chain a long with the heads and cam to make sure the valve train is up to the task.
Yeah, it really depends on the condition of the motor, and mileage isn't always an indicator. Case in point, the LQ9 I bought. I bought it under the assumption that it was a 62k mile motor, but the carfax on the VIN attached to it when I received it revealed it was a 130k mile motor. Because of that, I decided to do a rebuild instead of run it as-is, but what I discovered upon tear-down was that the motor looked like brand new inside. The machinist measured the cylinder bore as only being 1 1/2 thousandths over the original 4" spec, and the crosshatching was still clearly visible. Bearings all looked brand new. One benefit to buying an LQ9 over an LQ4 is that if it was serviced at the cadillac dealer (as the carfax showed mine was), then it stayed in a Mobil 1 bath for its entire life.
Part of my point here is that in addition to perhaps considering spending the extra money for an LQ9 due to it's potentially better service history as well as lighter duty usage, is asking the junk yard for the vehicle VIN (which they have right there in their computer) so that you can run a carfax isn't such a bad idea.
Part of my point here is that in addition to perhaps considering spending the extra money for an LQ9 due to it's potentially better service history as well as lighter duty usage, is asking the junk yard for the vehicle VIN (which they have right there in their computer) so that you can run a carfax isn't such a bad idea.
It kind of depends what you want to do. If you buy a motor that high in mileage the first thing I would do is a compression and leak down test to see what condition the rings are in. We have a number of customers running around with high mileage heads/cam motors you just have to make sure you replace the parts that will really see the abuse. I always recommend customers replace lifters, oil pump, and timing chain a long with the heads and cam to make sure the valve train is up to the task.
Yeah, it really depends on the condition of the motor, and mileage isn't always an indicator. Case in point, the LQ9 I bought. I bought it under the assumption that it was a 62k mile motor, but the carfax on the VIN attached to it when I received it revealed it was a 130k mile motor. Because of that, I decided to do a rebuild instead of run it as-is, but what I discovered upon tear-down was that the motor looked like brand new inside. The machinist measured the cylinder bore as only being 1 1/2 thousandths over the original 4" spec, and the crosshatching was still clearly visible. Bearings all looked brand new. One benefit to buying an LQ9 over an LQ4 is that if it was serviced at the cadillac dealer (as the carfax showed mine was), then it stayed in a Mobil 1 bath for its entire life.
Part of my point here is that in addition to perhaps considering spending the extra money for an LQ9 due to it's potentially better service history as well as lighter duty usage, is asking the junk yard for the vehicle VIN (which they have right there in their computer) so that you can run a carfax isn't such a bad idea.
Part of my point here is that in addition to perhaps considering spending the extra money for an LQ9 due to it's potentially better service history as well as lighter duty usage, is asking the junk yard for the vehicle VIN (which they have right there in their computer) so that you can run a carfax isn't such a bad idea.
My lq9 was suppose to be 70k miles and in perfect running condition and it broke within 30 sec of the first start at idle... Just do all you can to check it before buying
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High mileage wouldn't scare me if I knew the history of the motor. My HD has 196K and has 70lbs of oil pressure. I bought an LQ4 with 350K on it and it needed an 005" hone to have perfect cylinder walls.
Buying from a junkyard, I would want the oilpan off and scope each cylinder.. Anybody who doesn't allow that is unsure or has something to hide.
Buying from a junkyard, I would want the oilpan off and scope each cylinder.. Anybody who doesn't allow that is unsure or has something to hide.
High mileage wouldn't scare me if I knew the history of the motor. My HD has 196K and has 70lbs of oil pressure. I bought an LQ4 with 350K on it and it needed an 005" hone to have perfect cylinder walls.
Buying from a junkyard, I would want the oilpan off and scope each cylinder.. Anybody who doesn't allow that is unsure or has something to hide.
Buying from a junkyard, I would want the oilpan off and scope each cylinder.. Anybody who doesn't allow that is unsure or has something to hide.
