Crank Reluctor Main Clearance
Crank Reluctor Main Clearance Looking for some advise as to how much clearance I need between the #5 main cap and the reluctor wheel. I have 0.020" runout and the min clearance I get with feeler gauge is 0.011". This is a brand new LS3 block with a K1 crank. My OCD is getting the best of me on this one.
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Right here, right now!
Looking for some advise as to how much clearance I need between the #5 main cap and the reluctor wheel. I have 0.020" runout and the min clearance I get with feeler gauge is 0.011". This is a brand new LS3 block with a K1 crank. My OCD is getting the best of me on this one.
Anyone know what their spec is? Any help would be great so I can proceed or not. It is proving very difficult to get in contact with the Houston builder. I am not just the only one.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: NYC
They are all the same, so use these specs: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...lq4-specs.html
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Teching In
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
I have the same problem with my build. K1 4.000 inch stock crank. K1 just puts the crank in a box with out anything around it and the reluctor gets smashed in shipping. I only had .016 thou runout but im pulling it back off cause GM wants nothing over .010 runout. K1 sent me a brand new wheel in the bag. I really dont want it throwing a crank sensor code. If I was at .020 I would deffinatly change it out.
I have the same problem with my build. K1 4.000 inch stock crank. K1 just puts the crank in a box with out anything around it and the reluctor gets smashed in shipping. I only had .016 thou runout but im pulling it back off cause GM wants nothing over .010 runout. K1 sent me a brand new wheel in the bag. I really dont want it throwing a crank sensor code. If I was at .020 I would deffinatly change it out.
I am going to take the crank out this weekend. Does anyone have a goodson reluctor ring alignment tool I can borrow?
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
I marked the wheel to the crank counter weight really well in a few different spots and matched them to the new wheel and everything lined up great. Theres also a thread here about clocking the wheel to two flywheel bolts. Goodson tool would be nice though.
Took the crank out and the wheel was tig welded to the crank. Also, I noticed some bluing on some other areas almost like someone tried to straighten it. Anyway, it's off now and I have a new one which is a pain in the **** to get on. It won't just slide on when heated to 450F.
I tried sanding the ID of the wheel to make it smooth as possible and then heated in the oven at 475. I managed to screw that up. 2nd wheel attempt was made sanding more and using a propane torch. It got about half way on then cooled down and seized. Screwed up two wheels most likely the interference fit was greater than 0.007".
The crank is at LME now to be done professionally. Also got to check out their engine dyno for the first time
The crank is at LME now to be done professionally. Also got to check out their engine dyno for the first time
