Buy new 418 alum block or rebuild 422 iron block
11-28-2011, 04:20 PM
#22
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That being said, you might consider going down in size to a 370 or AES 390 and running a little more boost. With FI, you really don't need 400 cubes to put down very large numbers. Shorter stroke may be more reliable in the long run too.
11-29-2011, 12:12 PM
#23
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11-29-2011, 12:14 PM
#24
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The sleeves add more than just size - they yield more durability as well. The larger bore will decrease shrouding of the valves and heads will flow better. If you are having problems with heads lifting, the block can be updated to 6 bolt configuration too (more $$). Look over ERL's website at their options and costs.
I've considered that as an option, too. I'm going to make a final decision when we open up this engine, hopefully next week.
11-30-2011, 10:27 PM
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I accept your opinion ... even if spoken in an immature fashion. Could you explain the "why" of your comment or suggest how I might make the Iron Block setup more effective? That is what the questions are all about.
I ran 10.98 at 125 MPH on the Stock Alum block. I ran consistent times. (11:01 @ 126 MPH, 10:99 @ 125, etc.) Transmission did not break but once after the first performance build. It never ran hot; still had my A/C functionality.
With the Iron block, my temps are high even after buying a larger radiator and bigger fan solution. I get more KR than before. Only after finally getting an electric water pump are my temps more manageable, but it still shoots up after every run ... it's just that I can run water thru the block and cool the engine quicker between runs.
not to sound snide, but you DO realize iron blocks came factory in millions of trucks and SUV's, right?
The car is heavier up front; the transmission has broken in one way or other 3 or 4 times ... I lost count.
again, not to be a dick, but really? this is because of 80lbs of weight, not more horsepower? torque?
What was my ET gain for all that headache? I ran 10.84 at 124 MPH.
So, to my mind, if I had just put forged internals in an alum block, the performance I was happy with would have been reliable. And if I increased the cubes, I would have gained more.
I ran 10.98 at 125 MPH on the Stock Alum block. I ran consistent times. (11:01 @ 126 MPH, 10:99 @ 125, etc.) Transmission did not break but once after the first performance build. It never ran hot; still had my A/C functionality.
With the Iron block, my temps are high even after buying a larger radiator and bigger fan solution. I get more KR than before. Only after finally getting an electric water pump are my temps more manageable, but it still shoots up after every run ... it's just that I can run water thru the block and cool the engine quicker between runs.
not to sound snide, but you DO realize iron blocks came factory in millions of trucks and SUV's, right?
The car is heavier up front; the transmission has broken in one way or other 3 or 4 times ... I lost count.
again, not to be a dick, but really? this is because of 80lbs of weight, not more horsepower? torque?
What was my ET gain for all that headache? I ran 10.84 at 124 MPH.
So, to my mind, if I had just put forged internals in an alum block, the performance I was happy with would have been reliable. And if I increased the cubes, I would have gained more.
-it overheats and has the pcm seems to enter KR more often, compared to the old engine. whats the compression of the old engine compared to the new one? whats the cubic inch difference? what fuel are you running? its assumed you're running the stock radiator?
- it breaks drivetrain parts and doesnt seem to run as consistent. is the new engine making more torque than the previous engine? is the '60 foot consistent? is the MPH consistent? are you running an intercooler? what are your AITs after a run? are you hot lapping the car?
11-30-2011, 10:40 PM
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to be honest, your issues may have absolutely NOTHING to do with an iron block, and it'd be pretty silly to throw money at a problem you've yet to diagnose. IMO its best to eliminate all the variables when possible. at this point, the only thing that may be wrong with your car is a bad oil pressure sending unit and a slightly clogged radiator combine with higher compression/more c.i.d and....
an iron block up front ISNT going to make your stress your transmission much. that would be similar to you bringing your dog for a ride, going WOT, trans frying, and blaming it on the dog...
an iron block up front ISNT going to make your stress your transmission much. that would be similar to you bringing your dog for a ride, going WOT, trans frying, and blaming it on the dog...
12-01-2011, 07:30 AM
#27
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I've replaced the radiator with a bigger one. I doubt it is clogged. When I runt he electric pump withthe car off, I can hear the water gushing through the whole system. There ar no clogs.
Bad oil pressure sending unit? You're kidding, right? You really believe I would replace an oil pump without checking the monitoring first?
Wow.
I checked oil pressure with an independent gauge.
Bad oil pressure sending unit? You're kidding, right? You really believe I would replace an oil pump without checking the monitoring first?
Wow.
I checked oil pressure with an independent gauge.
12-01-2011, 08:38 PM
#28
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I've replaced the radiator with a bigger one. I doubt it is clogged. When I runt he electric pump with the car off, I can hear the water gushing through the whole system. There are no clogs.
Bad oil pressure sending unit? You're kidding, right? You really believe I would replace an oil pump without checking the monitoring first?
Wow.
I checked oil pressure with an independent gauge.
Bad oil pressure sending unit? You're kidding, right? You really believe I would replace an oil pump without checking the monitoring first?
Wow.
I checked oil pressure with an independent gauge.
you completely missed the other post. i guess you dont need help after all?
12-03-2011, 11:30 AM
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My son had a TBSS with the front mounted sump. It had oiling problems from day one. The stock oil pumps don't a make lot of pressure and leak like sieves at the parting lines. The higher you turn the engines the worse the problem gets. He finally replaced his pan and pump with a specially baffled Moroso pan and a good Melling cast iron pump. In any case it cured all the oiling problems on his Trailblazzer SS. This is not a cheap fix, but niether is a blown engine. After the pump and pan the engine held about 45 lbs. of at low rpm and over 60 lbs. up high.
12-04-2011, 11:43 AM
#30
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My son had a TBSS with the front mounted sump. It had oiling problems from day one. The stock oil pumps don't a make lot of pressure and leak like sieves at the parting lines. The higher you turn the engines the worse the problem gets. He finally replaced his pan and pump with a specially baffled Moroso pan and a good Melling cast iron pump. In any case it cured all the oiling problems on his Trailblazzer SS. This is not a cheap fix, but niether is a blown engine. After the pump and pan the engine held about 45 lbs. of at low rpm and over 60 lbs. up high.
12-04-2011, 05:55 PM
#31
Just an FYI blackls1ta, If you decide to go down the sleeving route like it was mentioned by another member, ERL will not sleeve 98 year blocks due to their different cooling passages compared to newer years and the sleeves mess up the configuration enough to make it not worthy of boring it out and adding sleeves.
To add to the discussion tho, I like aluminum bcuz its strong and lightweight. These cars dont need anymore weight up front and unless your throwing gallons of happy juice at the thing, I dont see it being a "necessity". There are plenty of aluminum blocks pushing high numbers and fast times to prove its worthiness all over the site. Good luck with the choice but it seems from your posts that, in the end, you really wouldnt be happy if you didnt go with aluminum.
To add to the discussion tho, I like aluminum bcuz its strong and lightweight. These cars dont need anymore weight up front and unless your throwing gallons of happy juice at the thing, I dont see it being a "necessity". There are plenty of aluminum blocks pushing high numbers and fast times to prove its worthiness all over the site. Good luck with the choice but it seems from your posts that, in the end, you really wouldnt be happy if you didnt go with aluminum.
12-05-2011, 10:31 AM
#32
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Thanks, Fb0dy0nly -
I love the idea of having 427 cubes for the nostalgia of it. But, in practicality, if I re-use my aluminum block, I will have it bored ten thousandth and it will be a 415.
So far, the issues are:
- #2 exhaust lifter not rolling .. scarred lobe and lifter needs replacing
- #6 Cylinder not firing due to water in cylinder, Rust ring on top and that portion of head, There was a spot on the head gasket where it lost seal for that one cylinder. Gunk in oil pan verified water and oil mixing.
- Clicking sound when crank is rotated.
(I loved this cam's performance ... Can't Comp Cams repair that one lobe and polish?)
- Rod journals perfect
- Cylinders still has cross-hatch like just honed. Should that be? Were the rings ever properly sealing?
My problems started last time I hit the track a couple years ago, I hit the rev limiter a couple times and I drove home with the reduced oil pressure.
I hope to have more complete information this week.
I love the idea of having 427 cubes for the nostalgia of it. But, in practicality, if I re-use my aluminum block, I will have it bored ten thousandth and it will be a 415.
So far, the issues are:
- #2 exhaust lifter not rolling .. scarred lobe and lifter needs replacing
- #6 Cylinder not firing due to water in cylinder, Rust ring on top and that portion of head, There was a spot on the head gasket where it lost seal for that one cylinder. Gunk in oil pan verified water and oil mixing.
- Clicking sound when crank is rotated.
(I loved this cam's performance ... Can't Comp Cams repair that one lobe and polish?)
- Rod journals perfect
- Cylinders still has cross-hatch like just honed. Should that be? Were the rings ever properly sealing?
My problems started last time I hit the track a couple years ago, I hit the rev limiter a couple times and I drove home with the reduced oil pressure.
I hope to have more complete information this week.
12-05-2011, 12:14 PM
#34
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The reason for the low oil pressure: #4 Main Bearing was worn down to almost nothing. Oil had to be pouring through it when the engine heated up.
It didn't look like it spun, though ... crank may only need polishing. We'll see next week. good thing, too; this looks like a $1000 or $1200 crankshaft. Lots of Mallory Metal where balanced.
It didn't look like it spun, though ... crank may only need polishing. We'll see next week. good thing, too; this looks like a $1000 or $1200 crankshaft. Lots of Mallory Metal where balanced.
