SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

This thread has the answers to your routing question(s).

https://ls1tech.com/forums/11059703-post70.html

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

thanks for the info but from what I have looked up my routing is fairly ok and I should not have oil trying to come out of the breather, as much as I hate to say it i think the number one thing is a compression and leakdown test

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

Obviously a stroker motor has excess crank pressure.

@ The op, add a breather on every tube (3 total), and run the PCV as I stated. Your problem WILL go away. It's what I had to do on MY big inch ls3, which has even more stroke then yours. I can add a picture if you like. Short of going to a big boy vent line (-12) it's your only option

litle88

iTrader: (20)

^^^^^clown^^^^^

That is what I'll be doing as well, hopefully tuning in 2 weeks.

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

sure show me a picture

gectek

iTrader: (2)

Maybe you are wrong Diet Coke. Well partly wrong. They may have some pressure, but I am dealing with a stroker as well in case you have not seen the thread......check out the 427 ceta in the dyno section. It has NONE of these problems and a properly operating PCV system. I can also say that the inside of his intake has NO oil filth inside of it. It has very little staining, but nothing of any residue.

It is NOT normal nor is it ok to live with any sort of pressure like what is A) going on in this thread B) what is normally experienced with most stroker apps.

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

well il find out in about 3 weeks, it obviously is burning oil because the oil light came on finally, even though I didnt notice any drop on the dipstick, It will be getting a compression and leak down test but first Im still going to race it and drive home on it next week, I figure if the rings are bad its not ganna affect anything by still driving it.

gectek

iTrader: (2)

Oh yes it will and can cause other problems. I would scan it while you race to check for detonation. Remember, oil, esp at a mist, is combustible as well and it not accounted for in any sort of tuning parameters save for knock.....

driver56

I just ran my 408 for the first time and had a massive leak(s), looked to be coming out both ends. I have a single breather on the valley cover, but it's a 1 3/8" circle track style breather. The motor never had a drop of oil anywhere on it while on the run stand or after installing it in the car, but after running it at speed (5-7500rpm) the front of the motor and everything at the rear is covered. Would adding a second breather on the valley cover and a PCV line from a valve cover to the intake help my problem? For pics of my set-up check out the carburated section and the LS for circle track thread.

gectek

iTrader: (2)

I believe by now that everyone knows my views on breathers. They will allow crankcase pressure to build until it is more than the pressure outside, then they will work in some sort of way......maybe.

Follow that link and run a proper PCV system and you should have no other problems after you fix the issues that are wrong now. Too much pressure can blow seals out enough to where they will not seat again.

If you still have too much pressure and do not want to set up a PCV system, then you may want to look into a crankcase evac system if your events will allow it. Last resort for me would be a downdraft tube/exhaust system tube or a breather.

Gregory

iTrader: (4)

I had the same problem with my LS2-402 after a few thousand miles.
My solution was a GZ Motor Sports VP101 Vacuum Pump.
The link below has a couple old pictures.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx...M-VT4gM_NmalAI
I found the engine more responsive and better running after the installation. The pump pulls 6-12lbs. of vacuum and can pull more with a different size pulley.
Here's the link to GZ Motorsports. They have several LS kits.
http://www.gzmotorsports.com/

Good Luck!

gectek

iTrader: (2)

Or you can do the whole AIR pump with the racetronix biz also. I have heard mixed results out of those though, but they are not mechanical rather electrical. Some guys use the wilwood vacuum pump or the CVR pump also as far as electrical, but the Racetronix wire kit comes with a hobbs switch so that it does not run all the time, just under certain conditions. Neat setup.

tt383lt1

iTrader: (3)

they also make a crank case evap kit that runs off exhaust presure and a check valve. it works by pulling all the presure out of the block.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moroso-25900...072be4&vxp=mtr

gectek

iTrader: (2)

And into your exhaust where it will possibly put up a rather large cloud of smoke and/or contaminate your cats and O2 sensors, depending on where you put it. Those are so old, God used them on his hotrod, and I mentioned them earlier.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

Oil in the intake has little to nothing in common with crank pressure. His problem is caused by crankcase pressure, as was mine. Your results have little to do with it. As installed, the catch can on his car (and mine) is a pcv restriction, however it does keep oil vapor out of the intake, which necessitates breathers. Seeing as the case is ALWAYS going to try to equalize itself with ambient, you saying a breather is going to magically pressure an engine's internals is laughable. It's going to suck when it wants, and blow when it wants. Thats why they're called BREATHERS. Meanwhile the valley cover through a catch can still acts as positive vacuum evac.

gectek

iTrader: (2)

Crank case pressure can sure cause alot more of that buildup in there. Excess pressure will blow the oil vapor into the intake if that is the PCV path. Otherwise it will vent to the atmosphere when the pressure inside the crank case is more than the pressure outside it is.

I installed some Mr Gasket "breathers" on my 88 GMC. Needless to say it is a worthless engine anyway, so there is no way I would ever be able to tell if it made it leak worse or not because like most GMs of its time, it marks it territory. They leave a nice oily film all over the valve covers.

Recently I saw what happens when a breather setup on the oil fill cap shoots oil out of it due to boost in the crankcase. It started to smoke and made a nice show. The oil FLOWED out of it. I know we are not talking about boost in this situation, but you get the point.

The results that this stroker has not a single problem with either excessive crankcase pressure like you say strokers do, and that it has no "normal" oil vapor problems in his intake say alot about a proper system.

If I have an opportunity, I will actually check the crankcase pressure at wot with a gauge with the setup that he has.

I guess if the OP still has problems after the breathers, then what?

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

I had a customer that had a similar issue to what you're seeing. He ran his car with the dipstick mechanically secured in place, similar to what you've done, and from what i heard through the grapevine, he caught his car on fire. Apparently he blew a PCV line off a fitting and spewed oil on a hot motor, and poof.

gectek

iTrader: (2)

Similar to quite a few instances I have seen and heard of.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

Then he needs to go to bigger breathers or have a -12 bung welded to his valley cover and run it to a -12 catch can.

gectek

iTrader: (2)

At what point do you address the real problem? After waterhose size line takes over the engine bay?