LSX67RS/SS

[QUOTE=DaleTx;17914689]No problem... I purchased a bare LS2 block that had been freshly sleeved and machined with a 4.125” bore (Nutter had a program going where he was selling sleeved LS blocks on ebay). Then, the engine was built from scratch at his shop. The LS7 heads were purchased from GM in the raw form, and then machined complete; valve guides, CNC porting, etc.

All the machine work and assembly was done under one roof. Through this build method I was able to choose all the parts based on my budget. I had several meetings with the engine builder to talk about parts... and make choices. I spent the extra $’s for forged internals, shaft rockers, and light weight valve train (titanium intake valves) and a dry sump oiling system since I planned to track the car a lot.

I used a LS1 ECM, LS1 sensors, and had a custom wiring harness made to fit my set up. This was the first engine I have had built from scratch… and it was a fun process and worked out well. The final tune was done on the engine dyno. I highly recommend doing the engine break-in and tune on an engine dyno if possible.

Good luck with your engine build...



Sorry, my mistake I wasn't clear in my question....I'm already down the road for engine build should have it in the test cell by March...I was specifically asking about the base of the air cleaner...I'm using the Mast single plane 4500 bore and hood clearance is an issue.

DaleTx

I used a Moroso 1" drop base and then welded on a custom made shroud. The shroud was made from .030" thick sheet metal. I cut out a ring for the bottom part and then roll formed the metal around the outside. The hardest part was trying to make it fit under the hood and seal evenly.





I mounted the IAT sensor in the back



I used an "Allstar" Performance brand 2" tall aluminum spacer on top of the throttle body to get the clearance I needed for the throttle lever arm.






This shows the measurement from the valley cover to top of air filter. I went with the GM LS7 single plane because it was about 1/2" shorter than the Victor. Not sure what the height of the Mast is.



It was a tight squeeze... but I was able to run a 14" diameter x 3" tall air filter element. I went with the K&N filter top to get a bit more air flow since I couldn't fit a 4" tall element.

D9HP

Do you believe you're realizing any performance gain by using that 2" spacer?

LSX67RS/SS

It was a tight squeeze... but I was able to run a 14" diameter x 3" tall air filter element. I went with the K&N filter top to get a bit more air flow since I couldn't fit a 4" tall element.[/QUOTE]



Thanks a bunch Dale....I've created a bit more work for myself selecting the Mast intake...as you can see I'm at 8" before TB or any type of spacer..I've got my work cut out for me.....

DaleTx

I doubt it would make a difference in performance with or without the 2" spacer. I had to put the spacer in to get clearance between the air filter base and throttle linkage. On the FAST TB the throttle lever sticks straight up.




The Mast intake looks great. Look forward to seeing the results on your build.

FYI... I measured my GM intake and it is 5-3/4" tall.

My6speedZ

iTrader: (18)

Adding a spacer will help distribute the air better to the corner runners and add plenum volume. I've never heard of someone adding a 2" spacer and it not help things. Perhaps this is because its before the throttle body?

Jimbo1367

I'd be affriad to track a car that nice. $$$$$$$

DaleTx

I did a little research on your last point. Since the 2" long pipe is before the throttle body, and the air filter base has a radius, it is similar to a velocity stack. According to Wikepedia... "The benefit of a velocity stack is to allow smooth and even entry of air at high velocities into the intake tract with the flow stream adhering to the pipe walls known as laminar flow".

So maybe the 2"tube will help to straighten the air, and reduce turbulence before the air enters the throttle body?

Thanks Jim! I've had the car a long time and it's great to use it rather than sitting in the garage collecting dust. It's only parts.

Jimbo1367

I wasn't thinking of letting it collect dust, I'd drive the **** out of it. Just more afraid of hitting something at extreme speeds.

D9HP

I had heard that a few places, which is why I asked.

Just wondered if he had any "butt dyno" results or anything from it.

Thanks!!

Oh - beautiful car. Sounds mean in those videos!

Bill71

Dale, are you sure about the entended nose crank? I spoke with A.C. about getting one of his pump drives and he insists that I should use the short crank.

DaleTx

Bill... I called A.C. today to ask about the crank he used in my engine. The crankshaft is a Manley LS Pro-Series light weight forged crank "standard length". My crankshaft is not the "long snout version". A.C. used the standard length crank with an ATI-Super Damper, and some custom parts for mounting the cog pulley that drives the 4 stage dry sump oil pump.

He has a lot of different set-ups depending on the type of car, engine mount location, size of pump, etc. His set-up does not require the "long snout" crank. This was my mistake in the post. I will make a correction... sorry for the confusion. If you don't mind me asking... what's your project and what type of engine are you building?

Bill71

It's a weekend fun car for the local NASA days here in Phoenix. I have a 1971 Camaro and am building a 427 similar to yours. I am hoping that Trick Flow will hurry up with their LS7 heads I read about last year. I've seen a lot of posts about oil control problems with these engines so I decided to go dry sump which led me to your build thread.

DaleTx

I read the same thing about oiling problems... and that's why I went with the dry sump set up. I have a lot of money in the engine and I want to make sure when I track the car... the engine will always have good oil pressure during hard cornering. I've tracked the car a bunch of times, and the dry sump set up works great.

Hopefully you'll post more info... I'd like to see some pics of your Camaro and more details on the 427.

DaleTx

Here is a video of my last track day out at PIR back in August. Since doing this build thread I have upgraded to a T56 Magnum transmission. The T56 is a sweet tranny. This winter I am installing 6 piston front caliper brakes, a new Katech heavy duty slave cylinder kit (The GM slave failed), and a new timing chain and gear set up.

I'm having a lot of fun with the 427. The top speed in the video is 132 mph on the front straight before the chicane, and 126 mph on the back straight. Hit 7K a couple of times in the run. The engine is running real good with the single plane set up. Very smooth and linear power from low rpm to high rpm... no misses or surging.

Jimbo1367

I'd be shitting myself getting THAT close to the wall.

DaleTx

Yeah... I just got the camera last summer and I was a little surprised the first time I saw the video. When I was driving it seemed liked I had plenty of room. The car feels really stable at speed and when braking so that helps. The only time I notice any problem is when I get up around 135 mph the front of the car starts to get a bit light from the air flow. The gen 1 Camaros do not have the best aerodynamics.

CarlC

iTrader: (9)

Yup. That's why Shipka and I did the aero gig on our cars for OLOA last year. Daytona and VIR are much faster than 135mph and neither of us was comfortable with all-stock aero.

You going to the USCA @ Portland in August?

DaleTx

I saw some pictures of your car with the larger front spoiler installed… looks good. Did you make any other changes to the car to improve aerodynamics? What kind of top speeds were you guys running at Daytona and VIR?

I’m going to make some changes to my front spoiler to improve the aero. I found a picture of a spoiler design that I like. It is a bit larger than a stock gen 1 spoiler and it has a flat lip around the bottom. I might try to make something similar to this one.


I am planning to run the USCA event @ Portland in August... are you going to run Portland, or any other USCA events?

CarlC

iTrader: (9)

I'm shooting for Fontana, but the drivetrain needs some work. After six years of serious abuse I really cannot complain, especially since the problem is a balky 1-2 shift, and the trans was used when it went in.

If I can make Portland it will be like a OLOA event. Drive all night, event that weekend, banzai home.

Note on Big Red's aero. The front grill is blocked off which does a good job keeping forced air out of the engine compartment. For short duty it's fine, but lots of testing should be done before trying it on a 20 minute road couse session.

The hood is vented as well. Between that and the front spoiler/splitter the car is quite stable at 155mph on Daytona, and that track is rough.