How does everyone break in their new engines ? lets discuss
07-06-2012, 05:18 PM
#21
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Heat-cycling an engine....its a myth and a misunderstanding. No such thing, it does nothing.
This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
.
This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
.
07-06-2012, 06:06 PM
#22
If the engine isn't run HARD for its first 2-3 miles after being built....the rings might not, and probably won't.....seat properly. Then you will have an oil burner forever and less power forever.
Thats why every LSx engine as well as all engines from all manufacturers get put on a dyno and run hard before they get installed into the cars. Leave it up to the customer and they'll have 100's of thousands of people coming back with oil burning issues.
Doesn't matter what kind of rings you're using.....CROSS HATCHING ONLY LASTS FOR A VERY SHORT TIME....the rings must get seated in that time, otherwise you're screwed.
If you want to drive it easy after the proper "BREAK-IN" time of the first 2-3 miles......have at it.
Engine break-in regarding cylinder walls and rings = HARD RUNS immediately
Total engine break-in = oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 500 and then 1000 miles. Then every 3,000 from there. (You MUST keep the engine as clean as possible to protect all the bearings of metal shavings that are shed in the first 500 miles. Its a lot.)
Heat-cycling an engine....its a myth and a misunderstanding. No such thing, it does nothing.
This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
.
Thats why every LSx engine as well as all engines from all manufacturers get put on a dyno and run hard before they get installed into the cars. Leave it up to the customer and they'll have 100's of thousands of people coming back with oil burning issues.
Doesn't matter what kind of rings you're using.....CROSS HATCHING ONLY LASTS FOR A VERY SHORT TIME....the rings must get seated in that time, otherwise you're screwed.
If you want to drive it easy after the proper "BREAK-IN" time of the first 2-3 miles......have at it.
Engine break-in regarding cylinder walls and rings = HARD RUNS immediately
Total engine break-in = oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 500 and then 1000 miles. Then every 3,000 from there. (You MUST keep the engine as clean as possible to protect all the bearings of metal shavings that are shed in the first 500 miles. Its a lot.)
Heat-cycling an engine....its a myth and a misunderstanding. No such thing, it does nothing.
This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
.
07-06-2012, 07:12 PM
#23
If the engine isn't run HARD for its first 2-3 miles after being built....the rings might not, and probably won't.....seat properly. Then you will have an oil burner forever and less power forever.
Thats why every LSx engine as well as all engines from all manufacturers get put on a dyno and run hard before they get installed into the cars. Leave it up to the customer and they'll have 100's of thousands of people coming back with oil burning issues.
Doesn't matter what kind of rings you're using.....CROSS HATCHING ONLY LASTS FOR A VERY SHORT TIME....the rings must get seated in that time, otherwise you're screwed.
If you want to drive it easy after the proper "BREAK-IN" time of the first 2-3 miles......have at it.
Engine break-in regarding cylinder walls and rings = HARD RUNS immediately
Total engine break-in = oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 500 and then 1000 miles. Then every 3,000 from there. (You MUST keep the engine as clean as possible to protect all the bearings of metal shavings that are shed in the first 500 miles. Its a lot.)
Heat-cycling an engine....its a myth and a misunderstanding. No such thing, it does nothing.
This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
.
Thats why every LSx engine as well as all engines from all manufacturers get put on a dyno and run hard before they get installed into the cars. Leave it up to the customer and they'll have 100's of thousands of people coming back with oil burning issues.
Doesn't matter what kind of rings you're using.....CROSS HATCHING ONLY LASTS FOR A VERY SHORT TIME....the rings must get seated in that time, otherwise you're screwed.
If you want to drive it easy after the proper "BREAK-IN" time of the first 2-3 miles......have at it.
Engine break-in regarding cylinder walls and rings = HARD RUNS immediately
Total engine break-in = oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 500 and then 1000 miles. Then every 3,000 from there. (You MUST keep the engine as clean as possible to protect all the bearings of metal shavings that are shed in the first 500 miles. Its a lot.)
Heat-cycling an engine....its a myth and a misunderstanding. No such thing, it does nothing.
This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
.
07-06-2012, 09:44 PM
#24
If the engine isn't run HARD for its first 2-3 miles after being built....the rings might not, and probably won't.....seat properly. Then you will have an oil burner forever and less power forever.
Thats why every LSx engine as well as all engines from all manufacturers get put on a dyno and run hard before they get installed into the cars. Leave it up to the customer and they'll have 100's of thousands of people coming back with oil burning issues.
Doesn't matter what kind of rings you're using.....CROSS HATCHING ONLY LASTS FOR A VERY SHORT TIME....the rings must get seated in that time, otherwise you're screwed.
If you want to drive it easy after the proper "BREAK-IN" time of the first 2-3 miles......have at it.
Engine break-in regarding cylinder walls and rings = HARD RUNS immediately
Total engine break-in = oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 500 and then 1000 miles. Then every 3,000 from there. (You MUST keep the engine as clean as possible to protect all the bearings of metal shavings that are shed in the first 500 miles. Its a lot.)
Heat-cycling an engine....its a myth and a misunderstanding. No such thing, it does nothing.
This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
.
Thats why every LSx engine as well as all engines from all manufacturers get put on a dyno and run hard before they get installed into the cars. Leave it up to the customer and they'll have 100's of thousands of people coming back with oil burning issues.
Doesn't matter what kind of rings you're using.....CROSS HATCHING ONLY LASTS FOR A VERY SHORT TIME....the rings must get seated in that time, otherwise you're screwed.
If you want to drive it easy after the proper "BREAK-IN" time of the first 2-3 miles......have at it.
Engine break-in regarding cylinder walls and rings = HARD RUNS immediately
Total engine break-in = oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 500 and then 1000 miles. Then every 3,000 from there. (You MUST keep the engine as clean as possible to protect all the bearings of metal shavings that are shed in the first 500 miles. Its a lot.)
Heat-cycling an engine....its a myth and a misunderstanding. No such thing, it does nothing.
This is how its done.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
.
07-06-2012, 09:53 PM
#25
FWIW I would check with whoever built the engine for you and follow their routine in case you have any issues. The last thing you want is to have a problem and them tell you to go pound sand because you "broke it in wrong" when you may have used a suitable method but not the one they think is the "right way".
This again
This is a great article about seating rings. It is basically along the the same line of what LS6427 said.
07-07-2012, 08:56 AM
#31
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It wont burn oil for ever if you dont get em set fast it will just be a longer break in process like he said get her to top operating temps and once that is done either run her on the chassis dyno or get on the street and put her in first and run her hard. Also if you get to a top of a hill put it in x gear and dont give any gas and let it stay high in the rpms. There are also many metal shavings after it is broke in for a few hundred miles. Ill take pics next time we change oil on the dyno.
07-07-2012, 09:58 AM
#32
There are going to be haters because what you said goes against what everyone has been saying for thousands of years so instead of understanding what your saying that will just laugh at you instead. Because hey, Joe Bob's cousins uncle says you should baby your **** for 250 miles and then 500 miles and then switch it to a carb and it will run nines.
That link I posted on the other page talks about what your saying, so I had heard of the "strong" break in method before I even owned an LSX.
07-07-2012, 08:08 PM
#34
Don't worry, what you said is exactly what I have heard about engine break in.
There are going to be haters because what you said goes against what everyone has been saying for thousands of years so instead of understanding what your saying that will just laugh at you instead. Because hey, Joe Bob's cousins uncle says you should baby your **** for 250 miles and then 500 miles and then switch it to a carb and it will run nines.
That link I posted on the other page talks about what your saying, so I had heard of the "strong" break in method before I even owned an LSX.
There are going to be haters because what you said goes against what everyone has been saying for thousands of years so instead of understanding what your saying that will just laugh at you instead. Because hey, Joe Bob's cousins uncle says you should baby your **** for 250 miles and then 500 miles and then switch it to a carb and it will run nines.
That link I posted on the other page talks about what your saying, so I had heard of the "strong" break in method before I even owned an LSX.
Yes, that link is great. Been posting it here for years, great info. Lots of testing and experience that guy has.
.
Last edited by LS6427; 07-07-2012 at 08:18 PM.
07-07-2012, 08:17 PM
#35
What do you think the NASCAR engines get right after they are assembled??????????
You think they hire some redneck to go drive it around the track at 55mph for 500 miles.
Competition Drag Racing engines...all levels, including Top Fuel. The engines get built, dynoed....then they hit the track. They don't put 500 miles on them.
Professional Motorcycle Racing........same thing.
How about a Formula F1 engine.......you think they hire some European wanna be driver to cruise around at 70mph for 500 miles.
No.....they run the living **** outta them the second they are started for their first time. Then within a few miles they are on the track racing for a prize. And they need every single bit of power out of their engines. If there was a better way, they would do it.
THEN.....factory production car engines.......every single one. THEY ALL GET RUN ON A DYNO....HARD. They don't put them on a dyno and set them to 2500rpm and leave them for 500 miles. You get the engine with a few miles on it.....rings seated, cross-hatching in the cylinders GONE.
.
07-07-2012, 09:44 PM
#36
You need to thrush the rings in to the walls. This is best dun on a DYNE. If you lack a dyne just do several hard acceleration in second gear and let the engine brake the car down to like 10MPH. Then do it again like 4-6 times APP. This thrushes the rings in to the walls and the DE-acceleration flushes the chips off the walls. I normally change the oil and filter after app 50 miles or so. This should do it. Never BABY an engine during break in. That is a sure way of not seating the rings. Other than seating the rings their is no other procedure for other parts to be broken in. Hope this helps!!
07-07-2012, 09:55 PM
#37
The reason for molly rings is for fast break in. All rings are PRE-LAPPED when they are made. The old style chrome rings is what you are talking about. And you better believe if you dont thrush those rings in to the walls the engine will not be broken in.
Why do you think engines used A CHROME MOLLY CONFIGURATION. Fast seating molly and long wearing of the chrome ring. In order to seat the rings and flush chips an engine must be broken in properly.
07-07-2012, 10:09 PM
#38
FWIW I would check with whoever built the engine for you and follow their routine in case you have any issues. The last thing you want is to have a problem and them tell you to go pound sand because you "broke it in wrong" when you may have used a suitable method but not the one they think is the "right way".
07-08-2012, 12:41 AM
#39
"oil changes at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 500 and then 1000 miles", and heat cycling being a "myth", that's got to be the most laughable thing I've read on here in a while...
Follow the GM printout I posted, after changing the oil/filter after the first time, drive it however you want for 500 miles, then change oil/filter again, then every 3000 after that.
07-08-2012, 01:05 AM
#40
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You kidding, that guy has years of experience with tuning and engine break-ins.
What do you think the NASCAR engines get right after they are assembled??????????
You think they hire some redneck to go drive it around the track at 55mph for 500 miles.
Competition Drag Racing engines...all levels, including Top Fuel. The engines get built, dynoed....then they hit the track. They don't put 500 miles on them.
Professional Motorcycle Racing........same thing.
How about a Formula F1 engine.......you think they hire some European wanna be driver to cruise around at 70mph for 500 miles.
No.....they run the living **** outta them the second they are started for their first time. Then within a few miles they are on the track racing for a prize. And they need every single bit of power out of their engines. If there was a better way, they would do it.
THEN.....factory production car engines.......every single one. THEY ALL GET RUN ON A DYNO....HARD. They don't put them on a dyno and set them to 2500rpm and leave them for 500 miles. You get the engine with a few miles on it.....rings seated, cross-hatching in the cylinders GONE.
.
What do you think the NASCAR engines get right after they are assembled??????????
You think they hire some redneck to go drive it around the track at 55mph for 500 miles.
Competition Drag Racing engines...all levels, including Top Fuel. The engines get built, dynoed....then they hit the track. They don't put 500 miles on them.
Professional Motorcycle Racing........same thing.
How about a Formula F1 engine.......you think they hire some European wanna be driver to cruise around at 70mph for 500 miles.
No.....they run the living **** outta them the second they are started for their first time. Then within a few miles they are on the track racing for a prize. And they need every single bit of power out of their engines. If there was a better way, they would do it.
THEN.....factory production car engines.......every single one. THEY ALL GET RUN ON A DYNO....HARD. They don't put them on a dyno and set them to 2500rpm and leave them for 500 miles. You get the engine with a few miles on it.....rings seated, cross-hatching in the cylinders GONE.
.