Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

I used scotch brite on my LS3 and didn't hurt anything. When I was done with the scotch brite, I poured some cheap oil through the lifer holes onto the cam and drained it right back out of the pan after, then I took some naptha on a cotton rag and wiped the deck surfaces clean (wear gloves and keep a fan on/door open).

After I did that, I put the heads on, torqued them down, and poured more cheap oil through everything, drained it all again, filled it with good oil, and I've put around 20K miles on it since.

I prefer to use a shop vac to pull stuff out of the cylinders if it gets in there...just use a narrow cone attachment, it will pull everything out as long as you don't turn the engine over and bind stuff into the rings. After doing that, and before putting the heads on, I wipe some motor oil onto the cylinders from my fingers and turn the crank over.

I also roll up paper towels into really tight rolls and slide them into all of the head bolt holes, and let them sit for a while, to be POSITIVE there's no water/oil in there. After I think they're dry, I do every hole 1 more time. It's worth an extra roll of paper towels to know I'm not going to crack the block putting a head bolt in.

Not saying what I do is "right" or "the best" way...but it's always worked for me. I've only lost bearings on one engine, and it was due to insufficient baffling on a road course causing the oil pump pickup to go dry at 6500 RPM.

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

The green scotch rites are the coarsest grit, followed by the red, with the grey being the finest.
I've seen people use the coarser grades to clean decks for MLS gaskets without failure, but I personally use the greys with engine oil on them to catch some of the particles that otherwise might have become airborne. Then clean up the mess with blue shop towels, or even better lint free cloths, either one soaked in brake parts cleaner or lacquer thinner.

Start the engine and change the oil / filter within a few minutes of run time to remove inevitable particles that have migrated to the oil system.

victorf

iTrader: (1)

****You also posted on CF, along with other CF members, I also gave you warnings on your methods. But since it was not appreciated, I went back and deleted my suggestions!!

Read and digest my first two sentence on my Post #18. If you don't know that already, add that to your toolbox and it will be helpful for you in the future.

My suggestions are not my "right way" as to proper tools/methods, rather, it is the accepted, very basic "right way" in good shop practice and cleanliness control!

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Dude, read your own post! You gave absolutely no advice while only finding fault with other peep's methods.

victorf

iTrader: (1)

"Bristle disk also contains abrasive particles. Shop air will force particles into crevices." is what I posted on the first two sentence in Post #18. Are they advice, or do I have comprehension problems?

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This is what you posted:

1. Post 12 - you suggested Bristle disc.

2. Post 17 - one of the three suggestions was shop air.

Rubbed you in the wrong way huh!

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I am not here to educate you and I am moving on!!!

Aloha!!

Danspeed1

iTrader: (1)

Then what are you here to do? That was the whole purpose of this thread was to educate. I took the time to show the process I used and asked for other others to chime in with good tips and tricks. It doesn't really get much more "educational" than that. There is noting macho about my photos; I do not claim to be an expert... quite the opposite as I mentioned in my first post on CF that this is a novice build. You haven't supplied this thread with any valuable information other then "I wouldn't use a bristle disc or shop air." That information is not going to help get the deck cleaned up. Maybe you are the one with the comprehension problems.

I don't know if you are aware of this or not, but proper engine building isn't dropping your car off at the local speed shop, handing them a boat load of money, and then picking it back up two weeks later with supercharger and cam bolted on.

And for the record I spent a number of years working for a dealership where whiz wheels were used daily and still are to clean these parts. So beware of the care not taken when you drop your car off to that supposed "specialty shop" of "experts."

Rant over

DG

victorf

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I was done with the other guy, now just one more try with you!

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Funny how people always try to impress by saying they have so many years working experiences....and yet not accepting they'd been on the wrong track!

1. On CF - I posted "don't use razor blade and scotch brite" from the get go, also explained that can cause leak paths...don't use anything harder than the base material....use only chemicals...if you want to scrape, use purpose built hard plastic...... and what did you do???

2. Over here - warned you about "Bristle disk also contains abrasive particles. Shop air will force particles into crevices." Do you know what abrasive particles can do to the precision internals of an engine? It is evident, you have gotten bad education at the dealership, where whiz wheels are still being indiscriminately used daily!!

All these ranting is about lacking knowledge and wise enough to accept being wrong.

Aloha!!

Danspeed1

iTrader: (1)

OK SO THE PLASTIC SCRAPER YOU RECOMMENDED AND THE SOLVENTS WERE NOT ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE BURNED IN GASKET MATERIAL ON THE DECK. MY QUESTION, ONCE MORE, IS WHAT IS THE NEXT STEP???

I WILL POST THIS ONCE MORE IN CASE YOU DID NOT READ IT THE FIRST 6 TIMES.... I AM NOT POSTING TO SHOW YOU THE "PROPER WAY" TO REMOVE GASKET MATERIAL FROM THE DECK OF AN LS2. I WAS AND STILL AM POSTING TO ASK WHAT TO DO WHEN THE SOLVENT AND SCRAPER ARE NOT ENOUGH?

I will call you UNCLE if you are able to finally answer that question! But likely, the post above will be your last response...... Because clearly even though you know what not to do; you don't have a clue as to what to do.

DG

victorf

iTrader: (1)

^^^Your attitude is like biting the hand that tries to feed you!!! Some people just don't know what humble is!

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You don't know me and certainly have no idea of what I know!!

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I certainly know that you don't know what you are doing! Right now, I simply enjoy watching you stuck at that limited knowledge level, frustrated even with the very basic!

Another thing - what I have forgotten is certainly more than what you know!!

Now is final!!

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Hey vic, maybe you need to go back to school long enough to realize what the word "advice" means:


From the Farlex Free Dictionary:
ad·vice (d-vs)n.
1. Opinion about what could or should be done about a situation or problem; counsel.
2. Information communicated; news. Often used in the plural: advices from an ambassador.


From Collins English Dictionary:

advice (ədˈvaɪs )

noun

1. recommendation as to appropriate choice of action; counsel
2. sometimes plural formal notification of facts, esp when communicated from a distance

What you are "offering" is not advice, it's criticism. When you actually give us your top secret methods to cleaning, whether we agree or not, then we'll call it advice.

jridenour31

Wow, nothing like being a know it all while giving no useful information. What a dick.

Danspeed1

iTrader: (1)

FINALLY IT LOOKS LIKE WE FOUND SOMETHING WE CAN AGREE ON. I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT YOU, and you seem to think you know everything about me.

Thank you for once again avoiding the question and not providing the answer I have asked you for repeatedly.

Now its time for us to part ways; I may not have your superior level of experience when it comes to engine building, however I am intelligent enough to know when I am beating a dead horse. I will ask you politely not to post in ANY of my threads again, and I will be sure to avoid anything you create as well.

DG

Danspeed1

iTrader: (1)

If anyone with a personality care to post a coherent & well composed response to my thread; I know I would appreciate it for use in the future and I am sure other forum members would benefit from it as well. The purpose of this thread was so no one, including myself makes a mistake like this in the future that could cost a set of bearings and potential damage to the rotating assembly. The information that this thread could POTENTIALLY hold is still pertinent,

Thanks,

DG

machinistone

Well, as has been said, the bristle discs are abrasive and should not be used - I get heads and blocks in on a regular basis which have been cleaned this way and not only does it put abrasive particulate into every part of the motor you can imagine, but because it's done with a power tool, there's the tendancy to round over the metal at every edge on the deck and to create low spots in-between the cylinders.

There is no perfect way to clean the decks in chassis on an aluminum block, but in my experience, the best way is to use a very very sharp gasket scraper and carefully remove the old gasket material. You can follow that up with a fine scotch brite pad by hand, and just be careful like was said to try to keep the fibers from ending up in the motor. I finish up with a stone and swipe the surface to remove any high spots.

allblowdup

Here ya go. You can use stuff called gasket remover for all the bits of glue,sealer etc. The you use a straight piece of alum and put some 400 grit wet/dry sand paper on it. Put a little varsol or mineral spirits on it and sand on the deck lightly with full strokes. Takes about ten strokes and it will be clean, straight and no scratches. When you install the new head gasket use some stuff called Hitack made by permetex. You will never have a leak.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

I thought I already did.

Albertan

I've been reading this thread with interest. I'm on the NO SCOTCHBRITE bandwagon. Back in Feb there was a fellow with a ruined engine. Although too much bearing clearance was the final analysis there was a lot of talk about Scotchbrite as well. (Mostly by me I'm afraid) I believe it is worth reading.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ressure-2.html

Danspeed1

iTrader: (1)

That's pretty much what I did; CAREFULLY scraped the gaskets material off and then lightly scuffed the deck to remove the rest. In the future I would take a little more care in protecting the internals of the engine. As for finishing with the stone, my machinist recommended doing so, however I didn't think that was going to be an on the shelf item.

DG

Danspeed1

iTrader: (1)

I had read about doing this, however I opted to use scotch brite instead of sand paper before I realized it had aluminum oxide particles in it. i figured sanding would create aluminum dust and particles that might make their way into the engine. I was wrong as it seems as though Scotch brite does the same thing.

DG

Danspeed1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the support and advice Mike!