what causes ls2 to spin rod bearing
11-29-2013, 01:40 PM
#22
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the fix... When a rod bearing spins engines is done as it is, however if the problem was identified and stop running engine on time must of the parts including the rod and crank can be reused.
Need crank journals resized and under size rod bearings and rod resized or a new rod.
As for oil pump a high pressure high volume from Melling is my favorite p# 10296 I do the internal porting and clean up inlet and outlet and very important to clean overcasting inside the relieve valve outlet channel so to not end up with too much pressure at top rpm, then I use .045 washer to increase spring pressure, I usually get around 73 psi @ wide open throttle.
The pump is hardened cast iron and no need to interfere with it's tolerances.
You should end up with a motor you can do anything you want with no worries.
Chances are you use the Melling oil pump as they come without any problems , as for me just don't live well enough along.
Need crank journals resized and under size rod bearings and rod resized or a new rod.
As for oil pump a high pressure high volume from Melling is my favorite p# 10296 I do the internal porting and clean up inlet and outlet and very important to clean overcasting inside the relieve valve outlet channel so to not end up with too much pressure at top rpm, then I use .045 washer to increase spring pressure, I usually get around 73 psi @ wide open throttle.
The pump is hardened cast iron and no need to interfere with it's tolerances.
You should end up with a motor you can do anything you want with no worries.
Chances are you use the Melling oil pump as they come without any problems , as for me just don't live well enough along.
12-01-2013, 08:41 PM
#23
SOoooo.....you want to run an LS at high RPM's
I not only port the oil pump, but the block too. Familiarize yourself with the oiling passeges of the LS series motor then take a real hard look at the 2 nintey degree turns that oil flow has to make going into the front of the block then to go alongside the block rail back to the adapter port above the oil filter boss on the oil pan. While your at it, look at the passages out to the oil filter pad and back into the block going up to the oil galley above....THEY ALL SUCK! If you want to do any high RPM use of your LS motor get a Dremel tool, a high speed carbide bit (or better yet an air powered die grinder) then radiuus and smooth the entry into the front face of the block, the 90 degree turn to the rear and then the oil filter inlet/outlet at the rear of the block, it will take some time and care but, the motor will then stand a better chance of living at high RPM when your done (yes I know when you run 7000+RPMs in your Drag racer you never see problems but, if your running 7000+RPMs on a road racing circuit you are playing with a "hand grenade" with the pin pulled, some live others don't!)
Next step in reliability would be to have all the lifter bores sleeved so when you kick one out one day the oil pressure will stay above 0 PSI but, thats for the really fast guys who really beat the crap out of their LS motors
I not only port the oil pump, but the block too. Familiarize yourself with the oiling passeges of the LS series motor then take a real hard look at the 2 nintey degree turns that oil flow has to make going into the front of the block then to go alongside the block rail back to the adapter port above the oil filter boss on the oil pan. While your at it, look at the passages out to the oil filter pad and back into the block going up to the oil galley above....THEY ALL SUCK! If you want to do any high RPM use of your LS motor get a Dremel tool, a high speed carbide bit (or better yet an air powered die grinder) then radiuus and smooth the entry into the front face of the block, the 90 degree turn to the rear and then the oil filter inlet/outlet at the rear of the block, it will take some time and care but, the motor will then stand a better chance of living at high RPM when your done (yes I know when you run 7000+RPMs in your Drag racer you never see problems but, if your running 7000+RPMs on a road racing circuit you are playing with a "hand grenade" with the pin pulled, some live others don't!)
Next step in reliability would be to have all the lifter bores sleeved so when you kick one out one day the oil pressure will stay above 0 PSI but, thats for the really fast guys who really beat the crap out of their LS motors
