ARP main studs on LS3, assembly? Are those neccessary?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2009
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ARP main studs on LS3, assembly? Are those neccessary? Supercharged LS3 with reasonable goals, Paxton Novi 2200 charger but not aiming more than 650whp.
Are ARP man studs must do mod? Some say that are and some that not?
And are there anythong special with assemblieng those, or just oilpan of, bolts of, studs in. Read something about line-honing?
Arp connection rod bolts probably are wise insurance even in LS3 anyhow?
Are ARP man studs must do mod? Some say that are and some that not?
And are there anythong special with assemblieng those, or just oilpan of, bolts of, studs in. Read something about line-honing?
Arp connection rod bolts probably are wise insurance even in LS3 anyhow?
From direct personal experience...when my 15k mile 403 build came down there was evidence of the caps moving. That build did not have ARP hardware on the bearing caps. No track time with that engine. There are pics in the build thread. Another option on the rod bolts are Katech with a torqued rather than measuring stretch with the stockers or ARP.
When the 427 was built, ARP studs and bolts were used everywhere.
When the 427 was built, ARP studs and bolts were used everywhere.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 135
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I gues that i take that insurance, bought my supercharger kit today...
Installing main studs, guide for idiots?
Is there anything else than bolts out -> studs in.
Oh, and i gues that stud kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-234-5608 is correct one.
And connection rod bolts:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-6006
or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-234-6301
Installing main studs, guide for idiots?
Is there anything else than bolts out -> studs in.
Oh, and i gues that stud kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-234-5608 is correct one.
And connection rod bolts:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-6006
or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-234-6301
Last edited by Mikko; Feb 6, 2013 at 12:12 PM.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Katy, TX
sounds like a solid build, have fun!
Be sure to carefully measure your main clearances with the studs fully torqued down. I've heard some say that the studs distort the main bores slightly. If the measurements check out ok you'll be fine.
Be sure to carefully measure your main clearances with the studs fully torqued down. I've heard some say that the studs distort the main bores slightly. If the measurements check out ok you'll be fine.
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I would leave it alone if you're not tearing the whole bottom end apart and measuring bearing clearances.
There are weaker links in the motor that you'll break before the main bolts.
There are weaker links in the motor that you'll break before the main bolts.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 22
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at that power level the stockers should be just fine and ARP not necessary. any more than that and I would use them.
keep in mind that gm uses them on that 454lsx crate that pushes around 750 hp.
If they were inadequate to handle that kind of load, then theres no way GMPP would be using them. So i am sure it would be okay. the design from the factory is a very strong one to begin with.
Ive asked this same question before. check out this thread, lots of info:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l92-418-a.html
I went with them on my build because we had the whole motor apart already and I wanted the most bulletproof setup I could afford that will handle whatever I may throw at it in the future. Plans are to boost the 418 about 14-16+psi and run a nitrous shot on top of that at times where i want more power. Il be pushing well over 1000 hp at that point on the spray.
So the reason i went with the studs is I wanted to make sure i did everything i could to strengthen the bottom end to keep the main caps securely in place and withstand the sudden abuse from the nitrous hits.
I knew that if i didnt get them I would regret it down the road as i continue to mod the vehicle. I like to know that the bottom end is capable of handling just about anything so you can reliably push a little more HP through your short block
keep in mind that gm uses them on that 454lsx crate that pushes around 750 hp.
If they were inadequate to handle that kind of load, then theres no way GMPP would be using them. So i am sure it would be okay. the design from the factory is a very strong one to begin with.
Ive asked this same question before. check out this thread, lots of info:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l92-418-a.html
I went with them on my build because we had the whole motor apart already and I wanted the most bulletproof setup I could afford that will handle whatever I may throw at it in the future. Plans are to boost the 418 about 14-16+psi and run a nitrous shot on top of that at times where i want more power. Il be pushing well over 1000 hp at that point on the spray.
So the reason i went with the studs is I wanted to make sure i did everything i could to strengthen the bottom end to keep the main caps securely in place and withstand the sudden abuse from the nitrous hits.
I knew that if i didnt get them I would regret it down the road as i continue to mod the vehicle. I like to know that the bottom end is capable of handling just about anything so you can reliably push a little more HP through your short block
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 135
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Thanks Bigace
So what are those weakest links? connection rod bolts, rods itself.
My friend broken rod bolts on his stock ls376/480 as now has big hole in his block.
My friend broken rod bolts on his stock ls376/480 as now has big hole in his block.
Last edited by Mikko; Feb 10, 2013 at 12:45 AM.
