VRSenator065

Hi all, can someone tell me what grade oil I should run in my LSx? Should I run a different grade for the initial start up then dump it and re fill?

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

Gibbs br 30

Tim

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

^^^Agree 100%. Stay off the Synthetic for a while also to get those rings seated...

Brennen's01SS

iTrader: (1)

I used br30 for break in up to 1000 miles. Then ran conventional 5-30 for another 1000. Now using ls30, it seems like good oil for cool weather but now with 90+ weather it has caused lower pressure at idle and wot.
Idle 17-20psi hot and 40psi cruising hot
Wot 45-50psi hot

This is on autometer electric gauge, stock gauge shows 10 more psi. Should I switch to a thicker oil for summer time use?

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

I would not change the weight. You might want to look into a better HV oil pump if you are concerned with the pressure. Weight of the oil is not the way I would try and fix it

Tim

Brennen's01SS

iTrader: (1)

Should I be concerned with that amout of pressure? Or is that sufficient.
Sorry to hijack your thread op.

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

I prefer more that than but you need to increase the volume not just the pressure.

Tim

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

You seen to be concerned already and frankly is inexpensive to remedy, here is what I do for the heat soaked summer days and all year around in fact, use Zinc additive else known as ZDDP, replace a quart of oil with a quart of Dura Lube, use 5 W 40 synthetic oil and finally my favorite; use push rods from Manton with a 0.050 oil restrictor hole, the unrestricted push rod holes are about 0.080 or more, the push rods take oil to lubricate the rocker arms only and a pressurized 0.050 hole pumping hot oil, delivers a lot of oil, more than enough, especially with the additional added lubricants now in there. Here is a big difference, take the 0.030 restriction on each push rod and multiply that times 16 push rods and you have 0.480 worth of unnecessary drain waste now been redirected to take care of the priority areas like the crank, rods, cam bearings as well as the lifters, cause the only restriction is to the rockers, hope this puts a smile in your face and peace in your mind, it works for me.
Happy fourth of July.

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

I use mineral 5 W 30 Castrol cause it's quality is rite up there with some real good synthetic oils but still allows the brake in to take place, i do all the initial tuning and drive ability, then change oil before heading to the dyno, and again I use mineral 5 W 30 Castrol cause the brake in is still in progress, if you don't do this brake in takes too long, after the dyno and another 2,000 miles or so then I go to my longevity/ protection mode.

VRSenator065

Thanks for all the replies all, no probs with the thread hijack, we are all friends here ha ha

KCS

iTrader: (20)

That pressure is fine, but you can go with a 10 or 20w if it makes you feel better. I've built several 700+whp engines that have about that pressure with no issues at all and bearings looking brand new.

Brennen's01SS

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the help guys, very thoroughly answered as always!