Best 6-Bolt Blocks
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Best 6-Bolt Blocks Been out of the seen for a bit and I am looking into a new engine build. I am looking to build a 4.200 bore 6-bolt motor for high boost. Block needs to be able to be o-ring. There is a the GMX LSX, Warhawk, and Dart blocks. Any others?
For boost I'll go with the king of HP the LSX cast iron toll deck so you can use a better piston, with a smaller bore.
Big bore tend to want to lift the heads, those the need for O rings the difference between 4.125 bore and 4.200 bore can be offset by a 1. PSI and you keep the block sleeves for later if needed refreshments, but if 32 psi is your goal, then O ring both heads and block and use 3/8 studs instead of 8 mm for 5th and 6th bolts.
I have the ARP 3/8 studs set used with nuts and washers in 100% perfect condition if you need it for a great deal, only used for mock up for block 6 bolts conversion.
Anther favorite block for me is the LQ9 for about $800. new at the Chevy dealer parts counter, then convert it to 6 bolts per cylinder, conversion is done in about 6 hours.
and use it with 6 bolts med bore ls3 heads from Mast / PRC / AFR then just O ring top and bottom. Tween turbo big boost no problem/ big savings.
Big bore tend to want to lift the heads, those the need for O rings the difference between 4.125 bore and 4.200 bore can be offset by a 1. PSI and you keep the block sleeves for later if needed refreshments, but if 32 psi is your goal, then O ring both heads and block and use 3/8 studs instead of 8 mm for 5th and 6th bolts.
I have the ARP 3/8 studs set used with nuts and washers in 100% perfect condition if you need it for a great deal, only used for mock up for block 6 bolts conversion.
Anther favorite block for me is the LQ9 for about $800. new at the Chevy dealer parts counter, then convert it to 6 bolts per cylinder, conversion is done in about 6 hours.
and use it with 6 bolts med bore ls3 heads from Mast / PRC / AFR then just O ring top and bottom. Tween turbo big boost no problem/ big savings.
I don't know of anyone doing a 6 bolt setup to iron blocks. Aluminum blocks, yes. Iron blocks, no.
The most I know the aftermarket blocks can go to is 4.165. ERL block can go to 4.200 max bore on the superdeck 6 bolt.
OP, is there a reason to go with a 4.200 bore? Also, with the 6 bolt head design I don't think you will be needing to o-ring the block and heads.
3 of the fastest cars in the country use ERL blocks. Mike Brown and Mark Koehler of the Ohio Boys plus, Ray Litz with the slowest of them running 7.44@192. Plus ERL gives you main studs and billet main caps included in their price.
Ray Litz does it with a big bore, short stroke around 410 cubes. Its somwhere around a 3.8-3.900 stroke crank and a 4.125-4.130 piston.
LSX block adds about 140-150 pounds to the nose of the car over an aluminum block. So, if weight concerns you the LSX block is not a good choice.Plus LSX block have been known to have issues with the bores not being in the correct place. Just ask Kurt Urban, LME, or any LS builder and they will tell you, you will have to go thru a few blocks and check them beforehand to make sure they are suitable to be built.
The most I know the aftermarket blocks can go to is 4.165. ERL block can go to 4.200 max bore on the superdeck 6 bolt.
OP, is there a reason to go with a 4.200 bore? Also, with the 6 bolt head design I don't think you will be needing to o-ring the block and heads.
3 of the fastest cars in the country use ERL blocks. Mike Brown and Mark Koehler of the Ohio Boys plus, Ray Litz with the slowest of them running 7.44@192. Plus ERL gives you main studs and billet main caps included in their price.
Ray Litz does it with a big bore, short stroke around 410 cubes. Its somwhere around a 3.8-3.900 stroke crank and a 4.125-4.130 piston.
LSX block adds about 140-150 pounds to the nose of the car over an aluminum block. So, if weight concerns you the LSX block is not a good choice.Plus LSX block have been known to have issues with the bores not being in the correct place. Just ask Kurt Urban, LME, or any LS builder and they will tell you, you will have to go thru a few blocks and check them beforehand to make sure they are suitable to be built.
My motor is 3.819 Stroke with a 4.130 bore = 409" its a good combo big but not too large to run a mid-large frame 88mm turbo without choking it. AES in IL built my short block, I sent them my LSX block.
All you need is the sixteen pieces to weld on and the hole saw to drill eight holes, now you have a 6 bolt block that won't allow the heads to lift, and with it you may not need the O rings using a 4" bore and 3/4 thick deck six bolt heads.
I can send you a free sample of the weld on bosses used for this purpose or supply you all eight of them ready to weld, the stud kit I have and the pictures to go by so you clearly know how it's done.
You will save nearly enough money to get the heads going this way and have a Jr LSX which will rival anything out there and save a bunch of weight as well compare to the LSX block, paint it orange and no one will know the difference.
Last edited by CAMSTER; Jul 25, 2013 at 06:18 AM.
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You've done this before on a stock iron block?
It's easy to do, just weld the treaded pieces to receive the studs to the inside and outside of the block and drill the oil valley sides to access the lifter area so you can access the inside studs, to get the nuts in and tighten then up from the valley area, the holes to drill are 2" using a hole saw, total of eight.
All you need is the sixteen pieces to weld on and the hole saw to drill eight holes, now you have a 6 bolt block that won't allow the heads to lift, and with it you may not need the O rings using a 4" bore and 3/4 thick deck six bolt heads.
I can send you a free sample of the weld on bosses used for this purpose or supply you all eight of them ready to weld, the stud kit I have and the pictures to go by so you clearly know it's done.
You will save nearly enough money to get the heads going this way and have a Jr LSX which will rival anything out there and save a bunch of weight as well compare to the LSX block, paint it orange and no one will know the difference.
All you need is the sixteen pieces to weld on and the hole saw to drill eight holes, now you have a 6 bolt block that won't allow the heads to lift, and with it you may not need the O rings using a 4" bore and 3/4 thick deck six bolt heads.
I can send you a free sample of the weld on bosses used for this purpose or supply you all eight of them ready to weld, the stud kit I have and the pictures to go by so you clearly know it's done.
You will save nearly enough money to get the heads going this way and have a Jr LSX which will rival anything out there and save a bunch of weight as well compare to the LSX block, paint it orange and no one will know the difference.
all the best David.
Just weld it on cold but for these purpose a special welding rod is used, sorry no wire mig welding here, it use to be that only one rod was available for these purpose, the German made UTP 8 but now Both Lincoln and Hobart have their own version the Lincoln cast iron are better in fact, and last, only 3 rods will do the entire job. I have not tried the Hobart.
When you buy the rods be sure to tell the seller what you are doing so to get the rite one sense I don't have a part number for the Lincoln rod, when you get the price you will know they are special.
The beauty about them is they get the job done with 0 chance of cracking and the bonding and penetration is excellent, remember we are welding steel to cast iron here.
When you buy the rods be sure to tell the seller what you are doing so to get the rite one sense I don't have a part number for the Lincoln rod, when you get the price you will know they are special.
The beauty about them is they get the job done with 0 chance of cracking and the bonding and penetration is excellent, remember we are welding steel to cast iron here.
Just weld it on cold but for these purpose a special welding rod is used, sorry no wire mig welding here, it use to be that only one rod was available for these purpose, the German made UTP 8 but now Both Lincoln and Hobart have their own version the Lincoln cast iron are better in fact, and last, only 3 rods will do the entire job. I have not tried the Hobart.
When you buy the rods be sure to tell the seller what you are doing so to get the rite one sense I don't have a part number for the Lincoln rod, when you get the price you will know they are special.
The beauty about them is they get the job done with 0 chance of cracking and the bonding and penetration is excellent, remember we are welding steel to cast iron here.
When you buy the rods be sure to tell the seller what you are doing so to get the rite one sense I don't have a part number for the Lincoln rod, when you get the price you will know they are special.
The beauty about them is they get the job done with 0 chance of cracking and the bonding and penetration is excellent, remember we are welding steel to cast iron here.
Just weld it on cold but for these purpose a special welding rod is used, sorry no wire mig welding here, it use to be that only one rod was available for these purpose, the German made UTP 8 but now Both Lincoln and Hobart have their own version the Lincoln cast iron are better in fact, and last, only 3 rods will do the entire job. I have not tried the Hobart.
When you buy the rods be sure to tell the seller what you are doing so to get the rite one sense I don't have a part number for the Lincoln rod, when you get the price you will know they are special.
The beauty about them is they get the job done with 0 chance of cracking and the bonding and penetration is excellent, remember we are welding steel to cast iron here.
When you buy the rods be sure to tell the seller what you are doing so to get the rite one sense I don't have a part number for the Lincoln rod, when you get the price you will know they are special.
The beauty about them is they get the job done with 0 chance of cracking and the bonding and penetration is excellent, remember we are welding steel to cast iron here.
