jobe_ls1

iTrader: (9)

Thanks, thinking the same thing now too, will help lower coolant temps which I need.


That is thinking outside the box! So because I have a spacer plate for the double row, this would still require a seal on the other side. What I am thinking is open the spacer hole to capture an o-ring. Then, when the pump is bolted to the block, it's sandwiched, just like every other gasket on the LS engine.

So where can I find a different pick up tube screen, ball bearing for the bypass, etc?

-10an fragola fittings and hose

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

Tim at the car shop is schumanns teach and sales

Tim

jobe_ls1

iTrader: (9)

Quick update here to get your thoughts. Crank journal was found to have small cracks likely caused by heat stress and engine builder does not want to grind so suggested a new crank. The block main cap was said to be warped and not registering properly. I suggested billet caps but builder said for $1500 more than billet caps to get the LSx block so this doesn't happen again. Also said the LS3 cylinders will shift and are already slightly unround.

Are others having these problems with 800rwhp on LS3 aluminum blocks? Is it necessary to go iron at 800rwhp? If I have to justify it to myself, I could just turn up the boost.

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

An iron block is not going to fix the oil delivery problems you have.

If you are ok with the extra 100lb then go for it.

Tim

Quick Carl

Here is what I suspected in an earlier post. They can skim the main saddles to get them back flat so the cap registers and align hone it.
Around 800 HP is where I recommend billet mains and pinning the caps.
I guess it depends on how much power you intend to make as to whether the stock block/cylinders will take.

schnellttz06

If it hasnt been answered yet, I would definitly recommend the oil cooler be after the radiator, that way if the coolant gets a little too hot it wont affect the oil temp. Aside from that, did you have ARP studs? I found that they tighten the clearances by .001 and I wouldnt take the machine shops word for the clearances, even if they seam nice and proffesional. Im not saying that this is the case, but I have read some posts about the melling pumps actually sucking the oil up into the top of the engine faster than it could return down to the pan. That might account for the low oil warning. Did you happen to prime the oil pump prior to starting it? You could have damaged and and it just finally let go, maybe the machine shop forgot to put assembly lube on that journal.

jobe_ls1

iTrader: (9)

I would be ok with the extra 100lbs and if necessary adjust valving and spring rate. I would be on the right track with priority main oiling, car shops oil pump, an EPC valve accusump and oil cooler.

I definitely agree that cap work could be done with either billet caps or another stock cap. Yeah I had ARP studs when align honed. The stock cap wasn't registering with skirt either, it was loose. Builder said if I didn't want to bring it back for a long time, just get the LSx and be done with it. I was planning to bump boost to 15psi so I'm starting to think this may be the best route.

It was mentioned that the oil cooler would best be mounted before the IOC to take some load off the coolant system so they are not fighting each other. An evans pump instead of the Meziere should also help and I'm hoping for 200*F max when running it hard.

schnellttz06

Well you could always not run it through the radiator at all. But to me it makes no sense to have it before the radiator. If the cooler cools the oil lower than your coolant, then it is just getting heated back up again. Keep in mind the entire radiator is not the same temperature, it's obviously hotter on the intake and colder on the outlet. I would keep it completely separate and you could mount it away from the radiator so it doesn't get heat soaked or just get a preheated air source. In addition, keeping them separate means your radiator will have less work to do, might actually get you to 200.

racer8088

You can often press the main caps back straight when they have gotten hot like that to get back some register in a press and then re-line-hone it to spec. A LOT of blower deals do seem to do that #4 main bearing even several stock LSAs and LS9s I have seen or heard of FWIW.

It's probably a result of the blower stressing the crank and flexing there because often #2 main is often bad as well but #1 and #4 and the middle caps are fine usually. The crank has to be doing some weird stuff and flexing to do that.

Also for some reason the Eagle and K1 cranks don't seem to do it as bad as the other cranks do like Lunati and SCAT and Callies but maybe those are just crazier builds?