LS2 block machine work cost
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Teching In
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LS2 block machine work cost I have a 06 LS2 motor that I am going to rework. Its got about 35k on it. Long story short it was bored .005 without a torque plate and uses a little oil.
I am going to redo it (correctly) which means either sending the block off to a reputable LSx machine shop out of state or just buying a new motor from some place like Texas speed. If I do I will probably go with a 408.
The only reason I am considering rebuilding my current block is I already have Compstar Forged rods. That and it will be lighter because I will probably pick a LQ9 block if I buy another one.
So... question is. what are you guys paying for Lsx machine work? Block tanked. Bored from .005 to .010 over, new cam bearings, deck checked etc.
I am looking for a realistic number so I can figure out if buying another short block is the way to go. I would rather save some money and stick with what I have. Just not sure thats possible.
Thanks
I am going to redo it (correctly) which means either sending the block off to a reputable LSx machine shop out of state or just buying a new motor from some place like Texas speed. If I do I will probably go with a 408.
The only reason I am considering rebuilding my current block is I already have Compstar Forged rods. That and it will be lighter because I will probably pick a LQ9 block if I buy another one.
So... question is. what are you guys paying for Lsx machine work? Block tanked. Bored from .005 to .010 over, new cam bearings, deck checked etc.
I am looking for a realistic number so I can figure out if buying another short block is the way to go. I would rather save some money and stick with what I have. Just not sure thats possible.
Thanks
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From: Studewood/Acres-Homes TX.
I do have the 408 your talking bout: This is fact do I have to list everything...you done just killed my..... High :Balance, blue print& *** short bloc, line hone w/ARP main studs, deck, bore, hone, hang rods, check bearings clearance, file rings ***., short block. 1700 if not you can do it your self, block work costs....you will still pay at a min for a done block with ARP Stud right at $1000 bucks well maybe 800 and some change fact $800 is the NEW $1000.... My Gen 2 SBC 383..... what else do you want to Know Assemble long block and (Dyno) test: degree cam, check piston valve clearance adj valve train,& lifter preload install oilpump and heads .....$1740
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From: Studewood/Acres-Homes TX.
I did not want to put together this time, I'm just doing paper work..... My Patience has gone short getting older near 40.....I built my own 383 and this time around I want paper work to show me that I Know what I know. All engines are the same 4 basic as strokes. It the dialing in on a certain combination.Efficiency is eye that's why E85 rules you have bumped the comp up to 13 and Running,,But if we get the quench right we can use every part of the normal 93 octane to the users benefit.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
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Your block can't be bored .005, only honed. You're only taking .0025 off of each cylinder wall, you'll have more push-off than that.
Are you sure there's something wrong with the bores and it's not rings, etc.? If it was torque plate honed, your bores shouldn't be the problem. I'd probably have the machine shop make a few strokes through each cylinder to refresh the crosshatch and go with new correctly gapped rings and look elsewhere for the oil loss.
Are you sure there's something wrong with the bores and it's not rings, etc.? If it was torque plate honed, your bores shouldn't be the problem. I'd probably have the machine shop make a few strokes through each cylinder to refresh the crosshatch and go with new correctly gapped rings and look elsewhere for the oil loss.
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How much oil is it using? Most of these motors use a little oil. Especially when you build a stroker that pulls the pistons further down in the bottom of the bore, short skirt pistons, adds up to less piston stability.
If its smoking and using a lot of oil then you have ring problems.
Mine was getting oil in the intake form the PCV system, now I have a GOOD catch can and my oil usage has slowed way down.
As far as the torque plate goes these engines do not distort the cylinders as much as the old SBC's do because the head bolt bosses are not attached to the cylinder walls. Its still a good idea to do it for sure, I did it to mine, but I doubt that would cause excessive oil usage either. As far as cost of machine work, should not be much more than what is charged for any other engine. I do know that a small block ford torque plate can be made to work on an LS block by slightly elongating the bolt holes on the plate. Thats how mine was done. Just saying there is no real need to send the block out, if you have a good local shop, more than likely they can do it.
If its smoking and using a lot of oil then you have ring problems.
Mine was getting oil in the intake form the PCV system, now I have a GOOD catch can and my oil usage has slowed way down.
As far as the torque plate goes these engines do not distort the cylinders as much as the old SBC's do because the head bolt bosses are not attached to the cylinder walls. Its still a good idea to do it for sure, I did it to mine, but I doubt that would cause excessive oil usage either. As far as cost of machine work, should not be much more than what is charged for any other engine. I do know that a small block ford torque plate can be made to work on an LS block by slightly elongating the bolt holes on the plate. Thats how mine was done. Just saying there is no real need to send the block out, if you have a good local shop, more than likely they can do it.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Thanks guys.
Thats correct it was power honed to .005 but without a torque plate. I just said bored because it was done to a certain size and not just done to make a crosshatch.
Uses a quart to 1000-1500 miles. Prior to that I changed the oil at 3,000 and no oil consumption at all.
There is no smoke ever. I am running a good quality catch can as well and get some but not very much oil in it.
I had a lifter ticking with about 2,000 miles on motor and pulled heads to swap lifters (which fixed it). Below is a picture of pistons at 2,000 miles.
I am convinced the machine shop was idiots.
I would love to stick with my shortblock and just upgrade my heads and intake but I dont see that happening.
Thats correct it was power honed to .005 but without a torque plate. I just said bored because it was done to a certain size and not just done to make a crosshatch.
Uses a quart to 1000-1500 miles. Prior to that I changed the oil at 3,000 and no oil consumption at all.
There is no smoke ever. I am running a good quality catch can as well and get some but not very much oil in it.
I had a lifter ticking with about 2,000 miles on motor and pulled heads to swap lifters (which fixed it). Below is a picture of pistons at 2,000 miles.
I am convinced the machine shop was idiots.
I would love to stick with my shortblock and just upgrade my heads and intake but I dont see that happening.
You probably will not need cam bearings......If its much money Id skip them unless they have to remove them work on the block. Just my .02, iv put cams in three gto's (30k, 55k and 88k) and never saw or had any cam bearing issues. My trans am has the original cam bearings in it at 149k and the cam was installed at 130ish
I also agree with the torque plate hone....nice but not required.
I also agree with the torque plate hone....nice but not required.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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After digging around there is no way I can economically build my current LS2 motor and do it right. It makes more sense to order a LQ9/408 stroker from Texas Speed for about $4k. At minimum I would have $2500 in building my current block using my current Compstar Rods.
At least I can recover some of my money by selling my current LS2 long block. I would rather save the 80# and stick with aluminum but its just not worth it.
So in the end if I sell what I have I should be able to end up with a forged 408 for about what it would cost to build my current motor.
So the current plan (subject to change) is to drop in a forged 408 with internals good to 900hp, The new Trick Flow rectangular port heads and a Holley High Ram.
I am currently spraying it with 150 shot plate but once I stop bleeding from this "repair" I might plumb the manifold and up the shot.
At least I can recover some of my money by selling my current LS2 long block. I would rather save the 80# and stick with aluminum but its just not worth it.
So in the end if I sell what I have I should be able to end up with a forged 408 for about what it would cost to build my current motor.
So the current plan (subject to change) is to drop in a forged 408 with internals good to 900hp, The new Trick Flow rectangular port heads and a Holley High Ram.
I am currently spraying it with 150 shot plate but once I stop bleeding from this "repair" I might plumb the manifold and up the shot.
sounds like you are in the same boat I was in. I would just buy a shortblock from a reputable place. I had mine bored out and forged rods and pistons put in. By the time it was all said and done I could have bought a 408 for not much more.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Yes, its going to be a 408/LQ9 for sure. Its the most economical solution.
That along with some of the new Trick Flow rectangular port heads and a holley hi-ram and should be where I want.
See how that works and then work on direct porting the intake and upping my shot
That along with some of the new Trick Flow rectangular port heads and a holley hi-ram and should be where I want.
See how that works and then work on direct porting the intake and upping my shot
Hone with torque plate is an important factor in a build, however it is not necessary. Like mentioned before the old SBC/BBC/SBF etc, all had issue with cylinder wall distortion when the cylinder heads were bolted in place. With LS motors you have two additional things going for you. The internal design of the castings is different and the clamping forces are not directly applied to the cylinder walls. Also the cylinder heads are aluminum not cast iron. There will be some distortion of the block but not to exceed .0015 - .0025. I would suggest taking your block to a reputable machine shop and having them Hone w./torque plate to 4.010. The amount of carbon is excessive for blame to be on the cylinder distortion. I would look at other components. Valve guide wear, valve seals, excessive oil film in the intake etc. The fact that you are not getting excessive oil in the catch can does not mean there are not other problems. Do a thorough inspection prior to spending several thousand on a black that you dont need to. You also do not need to do all the work that is being suggested, line hone w/studs, deck, blueprint, assembly, etc. Do what you feel comfortable with. These blocks are not like the SBC which require excessive machine work to bring to close tolerance. They are pretty close from the factory. Take your time, do a thorough check before dropping 1000s...Just my .02 GL!
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
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Was it burning oil before you did the lifter swap? Are you sure you didn't get some crap between the top ring land and cylinder wall when you had the heads off? I've seen more than one screwed up this way, scores the cylinder wall and oil usage begins.
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Teching In
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Thanks for the tips guys. But there is no place within 150 miles I feel comfortable taking the block to so it means I need to put it on a pallet and ship it off. So the cost of freight, boring, tanking block and cam bearings (exact price still unknown) and new pistons I have a decent chunk of money towards what could be a new 408 and I can recover some cost from selling my current LS2 long block.
I have no idea what its worth but have to think even though it uses a qt to 1500 I should be able to get a couple grand out of it with heads. Its a 35,000 mile motor. Has a nice cam with good springs, pushrod, etc.
I think I would be hard pressed to get my short block fixed back up for $2,500. Pistons alone are close to $800. Add new bearings, etc...
I am all for saving money and sure would like to as I have new heads and intake to buy. The 408 is going to pick up a little torque but not going to make a lot more power than what I have. So I really dont think its a "requirement. But I just don't how I can redo what I have and save anything.
Busted Knuckles it was using oil before lifter swap which is why the piston picture looks like it does.
I have no idea what its worth but have to think even though it uses a qt to 1500 I should be able to get a couple grand out of it with heads. Its a 35,000 mile motor. Has a nice cam with good springs, pushrod, etc.
I think I would be hard pressed to get my short block fixed back up for $2,500. Pistons alone are close to $800. Add new bearings, etc...
I am all for saving money and sure would like to as I have new heads and intake to buy. The 408 is going to pick up a little torque but not going to make a lot more power than what I have. So I really dont think its a "requirement. But I just don't how I can redo what I have and save anything.
Busted Knuckles it was using oil before lifter swap which is why the piston picture looks like it does.
