Assembling my first LS motor
09-12-2013, 06:24 AM
#1
Staging Lane
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Assembling my first LS motor I'm building my first ls motor, the motor is a lq4 block bored to a 370, i have callies compstar rods, wisco pistons. Is there any tips or tricks i need to know?? My dad is helping me he has build alot of sbc but this is his first LS. Thanks
09-12-2013, 12:39 PM
#2
Yup. make sure you put the bar bell in the back of the block, make sure you use feeler guages when installing the oil pump. Use loctite on the small bolt for the oil pickup tube , make sure you lube the cam plate both sides when you install it. oil pan rail on both covers must line up with teh bolck perfectly before you tighten the cover bolts. Those are teh major ones.
09-13-2013, 11:39 AM
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You need to learn installation of oil pan, is all a matter of alignment with the back of the block cause the block the oil pan and the transmission must be in perfect alignment, sense the trannie bolts on to both, the block and oil pan.
The corner of engine covers where they meet the oil pan and the block should get a dab of silicon to prevent possible leaks.
The front cover share mating surface with both the oil pan at the bottom and front of block, so run all the bolts in tight up the front and run up the bottom two bolts to oil pan and tight them slightly release the front cover bolts slightly tight up the bottom bolts then tighten up the front cover bolts done.
Outside of the block;
The side main cup bolts need to have sealer apply to their heads so they don't leak oil if you re use the originals.
Oil pan gasket;
I like to put a thin lager of silicone on the oil pan and the block around the area where the oil pan gasket have the oil transfer holes to be sure pressure is contained tight there.
The rear cam plate seals both the rear oil passage and the cam;
This plate have to contain a lot of pressure:
Clean the block behind the rear cam cover plate with brake cleaner before installing plate....
The cam plate in the back of the block have a built in seal I don't thrust so I add silicone to aid seal.
Before you install the rear cover;
The bar bell in back of block in the driver side at the end of the main oil channel can't be left out, if you live that out will cause to have to remove the engine and transmission to be able to install it.
When you install the oil pump use filler gauge to center the pump in to the crank, there's sprocket on the crank which drives the oil pump, four filler gauge blades of the same size must be use to center the pump, if not the impeller could attack the pump inside housing destroying the oil pump.
Use the fat oil pump pick up o ring with aftermarket oil pumps, use oil to get it in there.
Use thick grease at the front of the cam so it don't grind in to the front cam plate.
If you have the small cam bolts use two drops of blue tread lock on them so cam won't come loose later and ruin the party.
If you have aftermarket heads the intake runner have a hole in the middle, the rocker pedestal bolt in the intake side must have thread sealer so the oil won't be socked in to the combustion chamber by vacuum true that hole, or your new motor will be burning oil. "Factory heads are seal" don't have that problem.
The corner of engine covers where they meet the oil pan and the block should get a dab of silicon to prevent possible leaks.
The front cover share mating surface with both the oil pan at the bottom and front of block, so run all the bolts in tight up the front and run up the bottom two bolts to oil pan and tight them slightly release the front cover bolts slightly tight up the bottom bolts then tighten up the front cover bolts done.
Outside of the block;
The side main cup bolts need to have sealer apply to their heads so they don't leak oil if you re use the originals.
Oil pan gasket;
I like to put a thin lager of silicone on the oil pan and the block around the area where the oil pan gasket have the oil transfer holes to be sure pressure is contained tight there.
The rear cam plate seals both the rear oil passage and the cam;
This plate have to contain a lot of pressure:
Clean the block behind the rear cam cover plate with brake cleaner before installing plate....
The cam plate in the back of the block have a built in seal I don't thrust so I add silicone to aid seal.
Before you install the rear cover;
The bar bell in back of block in the driver side at the end of the main oil channel can't be left out, if you live that out will cause to have to remove the engine and transmission to be able to install it.
When you install the oil pump use filler gauge to center the pump in to the crank, there's sprocket on the crank which drives the oil pump, four filler gauge blades of the same size must be use to center the pump, if not the impeller could attack the pump inside housing destroying the oil pump.
Use the fat oil pump pick up o ring with aftermarket oil pumps, use oil to get it in there.
Use thick grease at the front of the cam so it don't grind in to the front cam plate.
If you have the small cam bolts use two drops of blue tread lock on them so cam won't come loose later and ruin the party.
If you have aftermarket heads the intake runner have a hole in the middle, the rocker pedestal bolt in the intake side must have thread sealer so the oil won't be socked in to the combustion chamber by vacuum true that hole, or your new motor will be burning oil. "Factory heads are seal" don't have that problem.
