Generation IV Internal Engine 2005-2014 LS2 | LS3 | LS7 | L92 | LS9

Which block for boost?

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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 10:16 PM
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Default Which block for boost?

Thinking of doing a twin build again and think that a stock LS 2-3-7 block with forged internals will work without getting crazy with the big dollar 6 bolt blocks. I would like over 400CI with twin 67's making around 800-1000rwhp and i would like to use a aluminum block to keep the weight down is these feasible? and tuned properly will it last? It will be a weekend'r so not allot of mileage and probably keep the boost turned down most of the time on the street but for those 4-5 times a years i hit the 1/4!
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 6togo
Thinking of doing a twin build again and think that a stock LS 2-3-7 block with forged internals will work without getting crazy with the big dollar 6 bolt blocks. I would like over 400CI with twin 67's making around 800-1000rwhp and i would like to use a aluminum block to keep the weight down is these feasible? and tuned properly will it last? It will be a weekend'r so not allot of mileage and probably keep the boost turned down most of the time on the street but for those 4-5 times a years i hit the 1/4!
You can count the LS7 block out unless you plan on resleeving it. The walls are prone to cracking compared to other stock blocks. With an LS2 or 3 block you will have to stroke it to get above 400 cubes which brings me to that you don't need 400+ cubes to make 800-1000 rwhp. A stock cube forged LS3 will do that.
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 06:45 PM
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I understand that but i'm starting from scratch it will cost the same why not get the extra CI that way it will make the power even easier!
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 08:26 AM
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a 4" crank in a stock block will have reliability issues due to the short sleeves in a stock block. If you are hell bent on the extra cubes then get the stock block sleeved you will have a much happier system. even a dry sleeve setup will help the longivity.
I would recomend given your goals that you stick with the stock stroke.
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 11:56 PM
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What he said ^^^^^^^.

If you are going turbo I don't really see the point of a stroker crank in a factory block. If you go with an ERL, RHS, DART, sleeved stock block, then stroke away.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by koolrayz
a 4" crank in a stock block will have reliability issues due to the short sleeves in a stock block. If you are hell bent on the extra cubes then get the stock block sleeved you will have a much happier system. even a dry sleeve setup will help the longivity.
I would recomend given your goals that you stick with the stock stroke.
Originally Posted by TurboAv
What he said ^^^^^^^.

If you are going turbo I don't really see the point of a stroker crank in a factory block. If you go with an ERL, RHS, DART, sleeved stock block, then stroke away.
I echo both of these guys statements. Besides, is there a such thing as a cheap, twin turbo build. I'm only asking cuz you said "not going crazy with big dollar 6 bolt blocks." But, a properly done GM block with the right forged internals will still cost a pretty penny. Like 87silverbullet said, the stock LS7 is a no-go as the walls will crack. Cylinder wall #7 is very common. I have one sitting on my garage floor waiting to be sent to ERL in the future when I decide to start building my 68 C10 swb. And to answer my own question, yes, there is a cheap way of doing things. But, I promise you will regret it. Ask me how I know. LOL!!
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 08:34 AM
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Stick with the LS3 block without stroking it. No need to bore the block. keep all the material you can. They are pretty strong.
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