Need LS Expertise!!!
So here is where I stand. I want to build an LS motor really bad, probably at first do cam, heads, forged internals, all that fun stuff. But later on in life do a twin turbo to it. I've read and seen that LS1 engines are not the best for going over 600hp? but what I'm trying to figure out is, will ANY of the LS motors (LS2, LS3, LS6, LS7, LSX bowtie) Fit into an F-body, like the LS1 will (Obviously because they came in 98-02)
What I've been looking is building a block from the bottom up from summit / jegs or something. I don't want to pull a motor because who knows what hidden problems can be within those used engines.
So for what I'm looking to do. What Should I build? I want to throw this into a f-body for sure. I don't need to go crazy 1500hp and stuff, I was aiming to 600-700hp. Something I can pull out on the weekends and drive around town for a few hours or so maybe take it to the local strip every once and again.
Choice one: Ls1/LS6
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...1166/overview/
Choice two: IRON ls block?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet
OR
Choice Three: LS2
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...2691/overview/
I'm open to ideas, what do you guys think? Any tips?
This is also my first engine build (Gotta start some how), I just don't want to be like "Okay lets get this, do that, do this", and it not being capable or good enough for what I want and waste all that money
Nothing will make power like Nitrous dollar per dollar. The Bigger Motor will always make more Power !
If i were you i would build an LS2 or an LS3 with the LS3 / L99 Big port heads that Flow 330 cfm out of the box. This would put you over 400 cubic inches which would give you more power & more torque on the street which makes the car more fun to drive.
This would be good for at least 500 H.P. with a cam something like a 238/240 Duration @ .050 inch. 605/610 inch lift on a 112 LSA. A cam this size would give you decent driveability & it would have a nice Rumble at idle.
The Nitrous would give you the additional 100-200 H.P. that you would need only on occassion like when you take it to the track.
Im running a 404 ci LS2 Stroker Nitrous motor with stock LS3 Heads & im very happy with the power. Im spraying a 100 shot now & my car really moves on or off the bottle. 600 H.P.
CHOICE # 2 OR # 3 Would be best for making power because there larger Cylinder bores would allow you to run the LS3 Heads that will make more power.
Last edited by NOS LS1; Nov 3, 2013 at 08:16 PM.
Nothing will make power like Nitrous dollar per dollar. The Bigger Motor will always make more Power !
If i were you i would build an LS2 or an LS3 with the LS3 / L99 Big port heads that Flow 330 cfm out of the box. This would put you over 400 cubic inches which would give you more power & more torque on the street which makes the car more fun to drive.
This would be good for at least 500 H.P. with a cam something like a 238/240 Duration @ .050 inch. 605/610 inch lift on a 112 LSA. A cam this size would give you decent driveability & it would have a nice Rumble at idle.
The Nitrous would give you the additional 100-200 H.P. that you would need only on occassion like when you take it to the track.
Im running a 404 ci LS2 Stroker Nitrous motor with stock LS3 Heads & im very happy with the power. Im spraying a 100 shot now & my car really moves on or off the bottle. 600 H.P.
CHOICE # 2 OR # 3 Would be best for making power because there larger Cylinder bores would allow you to run the LS3 Heads that will make more power.
Before I would buy a LS2 block, I would buy a LS3.
The cam, headgasket, SCR and DCR I would run N/A would be much different for boost. So I often see guys say, they want to build it one way intially and boost it later. Don't fall for that trap. Either build it for N/A or save and build it for boost.
( Normally Aspirated... I would go with choice 2 or 3.
Choice # 2 Cast Iron Block is Heavier but its also stronger & would be best with Nitrous or Turbo.
I am running the LS2 Aluminum Block that has been overbored to 4.05 with no problems while using Nitrous. ( 404 ci) with a Scat 4" Stroker Crankshaft.
An LS3 Block would be the best choice because it has the largest stock Cylinder Bore @ 4.06 ( 376 ci with stock crankshaft )
LS7 Block which is 427 ci would be the ultimate production block that has a 4.125" Bore. Its used in the 505 H.P. Corvette Z06.
Texas speed LS3 Block is 1600.00
Texas Speed LS7 Block is 3000.00
Last edited by NOS LS1; Nov 3, 2013 at 11:43 PM.
( Normally Aspirated... I would go with choice 2 or 3.
Choice # 2 Cast Iron Block is Heavier but its also stronger & would be best with Nitrous or Turbo.
I am running the LS2 Aluminum Block that has been overbored to 4.05 with no problems while using Nitrous. ( 404 ci) with a Scat 4" Stroker Crankshaft.
An LS3 Block would be the best choice because it has the largest stock Cylinder Bore @ 4.06 ( 376 ci with stock crankshaft )
LS7 Block which is 427 ci would be the ultimate production block that has a 4.125" Bore. Its used in the 505 H.P. Corvette Z06.
Texas speed LS3 Block is 1600.00
Texas Speed LS7 Block is 3000.00
So LS2 and LS3, I found an LS3 on JEGS. I believe same price as the LS2 block, it says on the notes "Max HP: 525" Is that telling me if I try to go over 525 their will be issues with the block? Link below. If anything I'll probably use my original Choice 3 to build up. If Money turns out to be an issue for turboing ill probably just use Nitrous.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet+Perf...23967/10002/-1
All LS blocks swap. 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, 6.2, 7.0. That is why they are LS blocks. I would keep reading. For you goals I would do a ls2/3 setup. Even a stock ls2/3 will make 600-700hp no issue. With decent pistons/rods 800-900 isn't an issue. No reason to start with a new block either. Find a used one as long as it is in decent shape (not cracked, etc) you will be maching all the surfaces to new condition anyways.
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From there find a stock crank, then time to pick out pistons/rods. Like others said, either go n/a or go turbo. Compression and cam will be different and you don't want to be swapping later.


