Justin Gibbons

Just in the process of picking up a L9H(6.2l), planing on stroking it and need some help/advise. Going to be installing it in my 2000 SS down the road.

Cant see me throwing more than 100 shot of n2o at it so what size stroker kit should I consider? how much compression? ( @91 octane)

It wont be a DD car, but I want good street manners so what H/C/I should I consider?

Is 600 rwhp possible and be streetable?

Will the factory LS1 wiring harness work, or do I need something else?.. Sorry if this is a dumb question but I have no clue about electrical.

I'm not in a rush to build, so I dont mind spending some money as I build, but I do want good street manners so going crazy on a H/C/I might not be necessary, but I'd like some feed back on what set-ups others are using.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

With the bore of that motor most guys go 416 (4.070 bore x 4.00 stroke) or 418 (4.080 bore x 4.00) stroke. You can go 427 too with a 4.070 bore x 4.100 stroke) Most guys go 416 or 418 because the extra stroke of the 427 might cause oil consumption issues.

Heads, cam, and intake are up to what your pockets can handle. If money is no issue, PRC LS7 small bore heads, FAST 102 intake and a custom cam from Martin@Tick, Geoff@EPS, PatG, Ed Curtis@ Flowtech, AI, or Brian Tooley, they are all good people to get info from.

600 rwhp is a tall order but it can be done with deep enough pockets and time.

The factory harness will work but you will need an LS2 front cover and the extension harnesses for the knock and cam sensor. You will have to drill and tap the holes for the knock sensor.

newschool72

iTrader: (12)

Are you going to use LS3 style heads? I want to build a 416 off my stock cube LS3 eventually so I will give you an idea for my cam profile. I think the duration should stay super short to give sledge hammer off idle torque and let the cylinder heads carry the cam through the upper RPMs. This gives daily driver street manners and very a very wide TQ and HP curve. Its also been proven the LS3 heads like a fair amount of over lap, so the LSA will have to be tight, with the short duration, to pull that off. I like an aggressive lobe design and although it will require a high quality spring, it will be required to get the area under the curve by moving the lift numbers up. Going with over 600 lift will let the heads shine at max lift. You will have a monster with a wide torque band that should easily get you in the mid 10sec range with great vacuum and easy cruising at very low RPMs in high gear.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...s/viewall.html .

Here is a link to a build using the same theory as mine. I used this logic with my custom cam and my little crate LS3 has hi 10 sec potential with stock driving manners in a 3500lbs car with a 2800rpm converter and 3.42 rear gears. It works great ,if you are not looking to drain every last HP from your build. The torque band comes in right off idle and carries up into the 6000rpm range. I haven't seen an LS anywhere else that comes in as early in the RPM range and still carry great power at upper RPMs. Mine will buzz straight to 7K without any seat of the pants drop off and cruise at 1700-1800rpms with the converter locked without any lugging or need to shift up hills or even give it much more gas to make the climb. Just a suggestion and a different way of looking at making power with the LS3 heads. It wont get you 600HP at the wheels, but the average power will make your ride run just as hard and without the need for drag gears or a loose stall.

1989GTA

Won't he have to change the reluctor from 58x to 24x or get the converter box?

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

When he orders his rotating assembly he will just have to specify 24x or 58x