LS1 Rebuild to 500-600HP
01-07-2014, 09:28 AM
#41
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LS1 or LS6 it doesn't matter. They are almost the same block. All teh power came fromt eh top end. better heads, intake and bigger cam.
You can swap the crank straight over to a 4" aftermarket. It will net you 381.8ci. BUT you should ALWAYS have the bores honed. You also have to have the rotating assembly balanced. Just swapping in a crank that isn't balanced to your rods and pistons would be bad.
Stock bore is 3.898". A hone of .004"-.006" will freshen up the motor allowing the new rings to seal.
You can swap the crank straight over to a 4" aftermarket. It will net you 381.8ci. BUT you should ALWAYS have the bores honed. You also have to have the rotating assembly balanced. Just swapping in a crank that isn't balanced to your rods and pistons would be bad.
Stock bore is 3.898". A hone of .004"-.006" will freshen up the motor allowing the new rings to seal.
So I need a 4" crank with the current setup? and as you say... honing in order to "clean" it up. Gotcha
01-07-2014, 09:34 AM
#43
Yup yup. There are a number of vendors that can provide you with the full rotating assembly. Crank, rod and pistons all balanced with bearings. Usually about $2300. Don't forget the cost to have the block honed. You can build and hone the motor yourself but it isn't fo the novice.
I think the machine work for the block, cleaning and honing the cylinders with a torque plate and honing the mains is usually sub $500.
You might even consider selling off your block and going with TSP 383 short block. Slap your L92 small bores on there.
I think the machine work for the block, cleaning and honing the cylinders with a torque plate and honing the mains is usually sub $500.
You might even consider selling off your block and going with TSP 383 short block. Slap your L92 small bores on there.
01-07-2014, 09:36 AM
#44
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Failed to mention this note... I plan on getting a internally balanced crank and getting new rods and pistons if necessary. All of which will be verified and balanced before just putting in the motor.
So I need a 4" crank with the current setup? and as you say... honing in order to "clean" it up. Gotcha
So I need a 4" crank with the current setup? and as you say... honing in order to "clean" it up. Gotcha
01-07-2014, 09:44 AM
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01-07-2014, 09:54 AM
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Unfortunately, my budget is tight on this job. All of this make me just want to buy the crate motor. I would prefer to do the DIY job and make it custom. Will this 4" 4340 crank work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Scat-434...-/261367253568
Also... these rods.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sbc-Small-Bl...-/190822997226
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Scat-434...-/261367253568
Also... these rods.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sbc-Small-Bl...-/190822997226
01-07-2014, 10:03 AM
#49
Forget EVERYTHING SBC. None of it will work. You have to go with the more expensive LS stuff. Please go over to Texas Speed's site and look around in the 98-02 V8 Camaro section. And just no on ebay. Get the rotating assemby as a set and have the place you are buying it from balance it.
There is budget and then there is **** just ain't gonna work. :-)
The cheapest you are looking at is just under $3k to get to a 383 if you do am much as possible yourself. That doesn't even touch the top of the motor. But you can still come out cheaper than the crate motor. Said crate motor will not take the boost well like a forged LS1 will. Unless of course you forge that but that's killing all idea of bidget.
I still think you should go forged 347 with those 241 heads ported by AI. and a good size cam. That will get you over 500 FLYWHEEL hp. Then when you add the boost swap out the cam.
There is budget and then there is **** just ain't gonna work. :-)
The cheapest you are looking at is just under $3k to get to a 383 if you do am much as possible yourself. That doesn't even touch the top of the motor. But you can still come out cheaper than the crate motor. Said crate motor will not take the boost well like a forged LS1 will. Unless of course you forge that but that's killing all idea of bidget.
I still think you should go forged 347 with those 241 heads ported by AI. and a good size cam. That will get you over 500 FLYWHEEL hp. Then when you add the boost swap out the cam.
01-07-2014, 10:06 AM
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Forget EVERYTHING SBC. None of it will work. You have to go with the more expensive LS stuff. Please go over to Texas Speed's site and look around in the 98-02 V8 Camaro section. And just no on ebay. Get the rotating assemby as a set and have the place you are buying it from balance it.
There is budget and then there is **** just ain't gonna work. :-)
The cheapest you are looking at is just under $3k to get to a 383 if you do am much as possible yourself. That doesn't even touch the top of the motor. But you can still come out cheaper than the crate motor. Said crate motor will not take the boost well like a forged LS1 will. Unless of course you forge that but that's killing all idea of bidget.
I still think you should go forged 347 with those GMPP small bore L92 heads and a good size cam. That will get you over 500 FLYWHEEL hp. Then when you add the boost swap out the cam.
There is budget and then there is **** just ain't gonna work. :-)
The cheapest you are looking at is just under $3k to get to a 383 if you do am much as possible yourself. That doesn't even touch the top of the motor. But you can still come out cheaper than the crate motor. Said crate motor will not take the boost well like a forged LS1 will. Unless of course you forge that but that's killing all idea of bidget.
I still think you should go forged 347 with those GMPP small bore L92 heads and a good size cam. That will get you over 500 FLYWHEEL hp. Then when you add the boost swap out the cam.
01-07-2014, 10:10 AM
#51
Um. N/A cams and Boost cams are not equal. One can do the job of the other but not very well.
I mean use an N/A cam while the car has no boost then when you are ready to add boost swap out the cam for one that is meant for the type of boost you are going to run.
And forget the L92 heads. No point if you cannot fit an LSA or LS9 charger on there. Just have your 241's ported.
If you wanna go really cheap get an EBAY turbo kit, bigger injectors and a tune, done.
I mean use an N/A cam while the car has no boost then when you are ready to add boost swap out the cam for one that is meant for the type of boost you are going to run.
And forget the L92 heads. No point if you cannot fit an LSA or LS9 charger on there. Just have your 241's ported.
If you wanna go really cheap get an EBAY turbo kit, bigger injectors and a tune, done.
01-07-2014, 10:15 AM
#52
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Um. N/A cams and Boost cams are not equal. One can do the job of the other but not very well.
I mean use an N/A cam while the car has no boost then when you are ready to add boost swap out the cam for one that is meant for the type of boost you are going to run.
And forget the L92 heads. No point if you cannot fit an LSA or LS9 charger on there. Just have your 241's ported.
I mean use an N/A cam while the car has no boost then when you are ready to add boost swap out the cam for one that is meant for the type of boost you are going to run.
And forget the L92 heads. No point if you cannot fit an LSA or LS9 charger on there. Just have your 241's ported.
Thanks for the tip on TSP. I customized the 383 rotating assembly, bearings, balanced... etc... I'm looking at $2450. That might work considering the prices I was researching for the individual parts. And those weren't including the bearings, and the rings. http://www.texas-speed.com/p-787-tsp...-assembly.aspx
And a turbo on eBay... No thanks. I think I want to go the Supercharger route later in the future. Much simpler install. I want to keep the motor as solid as possible and get the HP I would like out of it without turbo.
01-07-2014, 10:35 AM
#53
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The heads that are on the motor as is... they can just be ported? or should I look at swapping?
Thanks for the tip on TSP. I customized the 383 rotating assembly, bearings, balanced... etc... I'm looking at $2450. That might work considering the prices I was researching for the individual parts. And those weren't including the bearings, and the rings. http://www.texas-speed.com/p-787-tsp...-assembly.aspx
And a turbo on eBay... No thanks. I think I want to go the Supercharger route later in the future. Much simpler install. I want to keep the motor as solid as possible and get the HP I would like out of it without turbo.
Thanks for the tip on TSP. I customized the 383 rotating assembly, bearings, balanced... etc... I'm looking at $2450. That might work considering the prices I was researching for the individual parts. And those weren't including the bearings, and the rings. http://www.texas-speed.com/p-787-tsp...-assembly.aspx
And a turbo on eBay... No thanks. I think I want to go the Supercharger route later in the future. Much simpler install. I want to keep the motor as solid as possible and get the HP I would like out of it without turbo.
01-07-2014, 10:40 AM
#54
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as far as the cams go, I would strongly recommend talking to Martin Smallwood over at tick performance. does amazing work and he can really point you in the right direction as far as cams for NA and boost applications. Do Not get a shelf cam it will not make the power you want and is generic to cover a wide variety of applications. martin will build a Cam for YOUR setup to produce the most power for you. and it's still pretty close to regular cam prices
01-07-2014, 10:43 AM
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the Tick T-56 rebuilds are awesome. I have it in both my C5Z(5oo+rwhp) and in my 02SS(400+ wrhp) and I beat on them regularly and they just take it
01-07-2014, 10:48 AM
#56
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Back to my "budget", I'm just going to rip my tranny apart and use Tick's rebuild kit in order to "refresh and strengthen" my tranny. Adding the steal 3-4 fork and solid synchro keys will be a boost enough. I already have a Stage 4+ clutch kit on my list.
01-07-2014, 10:51 AM
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do the master cylinder before the big clutch. I only use a stage 3 monster on my SS and I have a textralia oz700 for my C5Z. Unless you are expecting some serious HP/TQ in the very near future
01-07-2014, 10:54 AM
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I did a Z06 clutch replacement a couple years ago.... burned it hard last year and don't think it'll hold. Put the McLeod adjustable master in to help as well as a new throwout bearing. (slave cylinder). I don't think I'll need to change them out this time. Maybe the slave.
01-07-2014, 11:18 AM
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I'm also guessing that Tick Performance can give me an idea on which piston head I should use based on the heads and CAM. I see several option on TSPs site. from -3cc flat top to -32cc headed pistons.
01-07-2014, 11:27 AM
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Yea. martin is great. He is on Facebook if that's easier. Martin Smallwood or you can search me and find him that way. Nathan Wilkes