LS7 Cam Help
#1
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
LS7 Cam Help
Well I've done this in another forum and I enjoy hearing everyones opinions so I figured I'd do it here too.
Help me choose a cam for my 06 Z06. I'm planning on have WCCH do my head work, bronze guides-probably, Ferrea semi-hollow valves. Probably not going to mill the heads because the highest pump gas around here is 91 octane.
Now on to the questions and what I was thinking....
I was thinking the stage 2 package but I'm still debating on the Ferrea semi-hollow valves verses the solid. Do you have any experience with the semi-hollow valves? I have thought about milling but don't think it'd be worth it since all we have up here in Utah is 91 octaine.
As for the cam I want a bump in power but don't want to really sacrifice drivability. I really want something that I don't have to check/replace the springs on all the time, doesn't surge (I can deal with minor surging) while driving in traffic, and cause idling issues, I like the loppy idle but I hate it when you rev the engine and the car tries to die.
I mainly just use the car for street use, trips to Mexico, and I do get stuck in traffic often. I go to the drag strip and do some HPDE events 1-2 times a year. I don't want a dyno king or something that makes power just top end, I like the low end torque but also enjoy taking it to 7k.
Also what springs would you recommend? What is your opinion on a beehive spring vs the double spring?
What else would you recommend me replacing? Lifters, pushrods? It's an 06 Z06 with 27,000 miles.
So what say you? I appreciate the help!
Help me choose a cam for my 06 Z06. I'm planning on have WCCH do my head work, bronze guides-probably, Ferrea semi-hollow valves. Probably not going to mill the heads because the highest pump gas around here is 91 octane.
Now on to the questions and what I was thinking....
I was thinking the stage 2 package but I'm still debating on the Ferrea semi-hollow valves verses the solid. Do you have any experience with the semi-hollow valves? I have thought about milling but don't think it'd be worth it since all we have up here in Utah is 91 octaine.
As for the cam I want a bump in power but don't want to really sacrifice drivability. I really want something that I don't have to check/replace the springs on all the time, doesn't surge (I can deal with minor surging) while driving in traffic, and cause idling issues, I like the loppy idle but I hate it when you rev the engine and the car tries to die.
I mainly just use the car for street use, trips to Mexico, and I do get stuck in traffic often. I go to the drag strip and do some HPDE events 1-2 times a year. I don't want a dyno king or something that makes power just top end, I like the low end torque but also enjoy taking it to 7k.
Also what springs would you recommend? What is your opinion on a beehive spring vs the double spring?
What else would you recommend me replacing? Lifters, pushrods? It's an 06 Z06 with 27,000 miles.
So what say you? I appreciate the help!
#2
My friend has a very low mile 2007 ZO6. He wants no cam surge or drive ability issues. So the plan is a 226/242/.640/.640/ 117+2.5 Cam Motion camshaft. This cam will have 0* overlap for very nice street manners, and will make good midrange to top end power. As he will never be using drag radials, he wants to kill off some of the low end torque and shift the power band up higher.
Going to use BTR Platinum springs/titanium retainers on the stock heads, as the guides are still tight. And probably going with LG Super Pro 1.75 headers & high flow cats.
Your lifters can be reused if the rollers are not pitted/cratered and roll smoothly. And hardened pushrods are a good idea.
And never use the 5w-30 "new car formula oil". Use a 10w-30 (or 15W-50 if your beating on it during extended high rpm operation) performance oil. Valvoline VR1. Royal Purple HPS, 15w-50 Mobile 1, Redline etc, are good choices.
Russ Kemp
Going to use BTR Platinum springs/titanium retainers on the stock heads, as the guides are still tight. And probably going with LG Super Pro 1.75 headers & high flow cats.
Your lifters can be reused if the rollers are not pitted/cratered and roll smoothly. And hardened pushrods are a good idea.
And never use the 5w-30 "new car formula oil". Use a 10w-30 (or 15W-50 if your beating on it during extended high rpm operation) performance oil. Valvoline VR1. Royal Purple HPS, 15w-50 Mobile 1, Redline etc, are good choices.
Russ Kemp
#3
OP, I have just swapped to an LS7 434 in my C5Z and just wanted to throw out some thoughts. I, like you, didn't want to sacrifice drivability but, get as much power as possible, so I went with a 235/251 on a 114 .657/.660 lift. Now, the shop that did my swap, has been running this cam for a long time, and is basically a Vette shop that specializes in the LS7. With their tuning, this cam has be fantastic! It's smooth, it doesn't want to die at idle or at a light, and w/ the A/C on its just the same. It's been fantastic! Power is linear and real nice, with stock manners down low, but runs like a bat out of hell up top! I've just now finished the break in period, so it hasn't hit the dyno yet, but I expect some real strong numbers. This cam has been paired w/ Frankenstein Racing Heads ported LS7's w/ solid SS exhaust valves that flow 410/270. We'll be pulling it to 7300. Just my experience so far. This cam is basically identical to the Katech K501, just 1 LSA off. It's on LSL lobes, which are better than the torquer cams XER lobes.
#5
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88
Likes: 3
From: Salt Lake City, UT
OP, I have just swapped to an LS7 434 in my C5Z and just wanted to throw out some thoughts. I, like you, didn't want to sacrifice drivability but, get as much power as possible, so I went with a 235/251 on a 114 .657/.660 lift. Now, the shop that did my swap, has been running this cam for a long time, and is basically a Vette shop that specializes in the LS7. With their tuning, this cam has be fantastic! It's smooth, it doesn't want to die at idle or at a light, and w/ the A/C on its just the same. It's been fantastic! Power is linear and real nice, with stock manners down low, but runs like a bat out of hell up top! I've just now finished the break in period, so it hasn't hit the dyno yet, but I expect some real strong numbers. This cam has been paired w/ Frankenstein Racing Heads ported LS7's w/ solid SS exhaust valves that flow 410/270. We'll be pulling it to 7300. Just my experience so far. This cam is basically identical to the Katech K501, just 1 LSA off. It's on LSL lobes, which are better than the torquer cams XER lobes.
#6
Mill the heads. 91 at elevation is like 93 at sealevel. Don had his milled .030" and wishes he went more. That gained a solid 20rwhp and power/torque everywhere. Car took 1-1.5 degrees less timing but drove much better.
#7
Mill the heads. You will have better luck there. As far as cams, we can get you or custom spec you any camshaft you want. Just give us an idea of your entire setup and your goals, and we can get you the cam you want!
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#10
I'm in the middle of researching valves for my ls7 also. I def won't do stainless even though a number of people have had great luck with them. Just too heavy. Hollow ferrea seems like the logical choice. Have considered titanium, but man they are expensive!
#11
The hollow stem stainless work VERY well and are lighter. We have the manleys as they are quite a bit higher quality and readily available. I have used them in 4 LS7 builds including 2 boosted setups and prefer them over the stock TI valves. The possibility of a lash cap falling off etc is too problematic in my opinion.
#12
#15
There have been quite a few guys use the GMPP cams but when there are such better designs out there in off shelf or custom, why waste your money when you are leaving so much on the table just for a "GM" cam? They arent designed very well vs proven powerhouse cams.