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In the original post, it states they are stage 1 TEA heads.
The original plan when this all began a few years ago was to use a set of TEA Stg. 1 243 heads that I purchased off a 03 ZO6. I later saw these Wagner Automotive Research castings for sale at a local parts warehouse in Oshkosh that I use for stock car engine builds. I thought they looked pretty nice and being new GM castings made them even more attractive. I sold my heads to KingLT1 and then transferred my LS6 hollow valves and Lunati duals over from my DIY241 heads that were on my original LS6 short block. These costed me 950 cash and I had a local shop mill them another .014" which in addition to the .011" that WAR does, should put the final chamber volume at 62cc.
IIRC the flow on the intakes are down 15cfm from my TEA (312 vs 297) but the exhaust is comparable so we'll have to see how it does. This Carl Wagner fella is pretty notorious amongst the LS community which is why I tried to show so many different pics of these 799s
Last edited by A.R. Shale Targa; 08-24-2016 at 05:24 PM.
Very nice build. The port work on those heads looks top notch.
Thanks a lot man, all things in perspective, for you to say that carries some weight considering the quality of heads you're running
Originally Posted by Mavn
I literally just assembled the EXACT Same shortblock lol same pistons and every thing. ARP Rods with stock Main Studs. Running ported 243's and a holley high ram with a 235/242 .620 .615 cam. Ill let you know on Numbers here in about 2 weeks!! its going in an Auto Envoy Denali
That's pretty cool. Stalled auto allows for a bit more camshaft duration where I decided to go all "Sally" on my specs. I wanted pure stock drivability at all rpms
Last edited by A.R. Shale Targa; 08-24-2016 at 05:25 PM.
In the original post, it states they are stage 1 TEA heads.
no those are bolted my LS6 block!
Looking good Jim...I still think you should reconsider that LS7 clutch, but it is hard to beat free. Nothing wrong with a mild cam either, I think you chose wisely. I would not want any bigger cam in my car for a driver.
Looking good Jim...I still think you should reconsider that LS7 clutch, but it is hard to beat free. Nothing wrong with a mild cam either, I think you chose wisely. I would not want any bigger cam in my car for a driver.
Well, well, well, you finally got some cylinder heads. Have you seen how much more power they were good for?
Well, well, well, you finally got some cylinder heads. Have you seen how much more power they were good for?
I'm pretty sure King is like hours away from a drag strip and does all his own tuning. When he was bolt-ons, the accelerometer showed around 113-114 traps
224/228 cam with TEA heads and FAST92 has him currently logging 123-124 IIRC
Pretty strong combo now experiencing traction issues
Well, well, well, you finally got some cylinder heads. Have you seen how much more power they were good for?
I did Heads/Cam/Fast 92 all at the same time over a year ago. Trap speed on my Gtech went from 119 to 127, so it picked up power. Gtech reads a little high on mph but I just use it to compare mods. I actually went slower et wise until I did the drag pack. Went 12.2 @ 119 bolt ons, then 12.4 126 H/C/I, then 11.58 @ 127 on the drag pack and that was a very soft launch. Raced a 118mph trap 5.0 from a 40 roll and pulled it hard . I am sure there is probably a little left in with a good dyno tune too.
I did Heads/Cam/Fast 92 all at the same time over a year ago. Trap speed on my Gtech went from 119 to 127, so it picked up power. Gtech reads a little high on mph but I just use it to compare mods. I actually went slower et wise until I did the drag pack. Went 12.2 @ 119 bolt ons, then 12.4 126 H/C/I, then 11.58 @ 127 on the drag pack and that was a very soft launch. Raced a 118mph trap 5.0 from a 40 roll and pulled it hard . I am sure there is probably a little left in with a good dyno tune too.
Youre saying you trapped 127 SBE LS1..? Full weight car?
Youre saying you trapped 127 SBE LS1..? Full weight car?
I do not want to derail Jim's thread about my pile...so I will just post this for clarification. I have not taken this car to the track. Those trap speed readings are from a accelerometer (gtech) on the street. I have had it for 15yrs and its always been within a tenth of what the closest track reads. I use it to compare mods kind of like a dyno. The trap speed reads a little high so no I do not think my car traps 127. It is probably a 123-124mph car( as Jim mentioned )judging off of other cars I have raced which has only been a couple. Car weighs 33xx with no reduction other then spare delete. Its a 1sc hardtop.
Jim, nice to see that long block making its way into the engine bay! Keep me updated !!
I do not want to derail Jim's thread about my pile...so I will just post this for clarification. I have not taken this car to the track. Those trap speed readings are from a accelerometer (gtech) on the street. I have had it for 15yrs and its always been within a tenth of what the closest track reads. I use it to compare mods kind of like a dyno. The trap speed reads a little high so no I do not think my car traps 127. It is probably a 123-124mph car( as Jim mentioned )judging off of other cars I have raced which has only been a couple. Car weighs 33xx with no reduction other then spare delete. Its a 1sc hardtop.
Jim, nice to see that long block making its way into the engine bay! Keep me updated !!
No its an actual device you stick to the windshield. Mine is the 15-20yr old unit that measures 0-60, 1/4 mi, 60-0, g force(skid pad). It was pretty popular back in the day. They have had several revisions to the unit over the years.
There is probably a phone app out now. I just use this because I have verified this unit being within a tenth of my closest track.
IIRC one turn is right around .049" based on thread pitch
So that puts my .605" intakes in that .070"-.080" range
And the .575" exhausts are .090"-.100" preload
So I'm in the factory lifter wheelhouse
Could have gotten shorter prs for the exhausts to even out the preloads but then i would have had to get some 11/32" mantons. Ugghh. Just never ends
I'm sure these .080" wall tooth pics will show jagged lines on a smoothing 5 chassis dyno, however IMO the number of over 6500 rpm blasts that I'll make
Is where my LS6 hollows will help out
Couple few updates. Took my supposedly BNIB clutch kit apart to inspect, look over, weigh. Etc basically one of those silly gear head procedures where you kinda let a piece/part tell if it's good or not. Silly I know, but I'm sure some of you all know exactly what I'm talking about even if you don't admit it. LOL
So anyways, I see markings of slight use and call my buddy who gave me this clutch in lieu of money owed and he says" I pulled it after driving the car home from the dealership".
I guess it makes sense since his plan was to track the car at Road America and that is specifically why he purchased a stick Grand Sport. (Hand built dry sump LS3) engine
So I've decided to list it for sale in the classifieds for 400 bucks and I'll prolly try to get 50-75 bucks for the original clutch out of my Vette (approx 50% left)
Think I'm going to order the Mantic ER2 kit. Seems like a decent driver friendly piece that can take some occasional abuse at my guesstimated power level. Also much lighter than the LS7 piece. Couple few lbs lighter than my original one
I also began to drill clutch dust vents in the clutch cover, bell housing will be tomorrow nights project
For sale
Marks of installation
Couple few buttercup miles
Ummm. Like new
Ready set go
Certainly not artwork, but not bad for eye balling symmetry.
08-24-2016, 04:40 PM
