Hey all, I've got a complete ls3 short block that I'm using with my Mast small bore heads due to damaging my ls1.

I want to run a solid cam set up in this to get the lift up where the heads are flowing the most.

What are some good lifters to be looking at and what sort of cam specs? I'm thinking mid to high 230's duration

I am running a stock intake, Jesel rockers, .700" dual springs, 5000 stall and e85.

 

You don't need solid to do that. I'm high 230's .650" with hydro.

 

Solid is my cam of choice specially good with the rite Mast performance cylinder heads and couple with the rite adjustable rocker arms will never be surpassed by anything else.

As for cam only way I would do it is get one spec for your application, is only $25. bucks and it will be the best cam you can possibly get your hands on from the getgo Camhelp@guerragroup.com you'll be directed to make a paypal payment them follow prompts to a long questionnaire about your car weight, transmission, exhaust, gears, heads runners intake and exhaust flow numbers, purpose, gear shift rpm (I recommend 6,800 rpm for street strip)
car and 7,300 red line, you'll end up getting a cam that is very mild and make more power you'll ever thought possible.

For best results get a 102mm throttle body and a fast intake IMO. to let it reap.

This combination of parts will not live you power hungry, when couple with the rite gears and some weight reduction you'll end up matching supercharge version at 5-6 psi minus the weight and complication of intercooler extra belts and all that plus the car is easier to run cool sense you are not placing anything in front or behind the radiator.

As for lifters TD machine, Jesels or comp cams which are made by TD machine are the way to go. I'll get 1.8 ratio for extra lift and more power.

Just saying, is what I would do.

Hope this helps....

 

Overlooked the 5,000 stall and e85 in this case 13 to 1 compression and a single plane high-rise intake will work great.

With 5,000 stall is a track car so everything big goes best, in these case I recommend Mast ls3 heads for best results.

 

The thing is, I drive this regularly, almost daily. I can't have an intake that protrudes out the bonnet as with the laws here, the car won't last long on the street.

As it's a standard bottom end I don't really wanna be Revving it past 7000 anyways.

Would the standard inlet really be that much or a restriction at the 500rwhp (130mph) mark? And 7000rpm?

I already have mast ls3 heads albeit with a 2.08 inlet valve, and Jesel adjustable 1.7's
With these heads on the ls3 it works out to be approx 12.8 compression

And yeah I could do hydraulic, but I've already smashed a pair of 5290 morels, hence why I'm here with an ls3 and the reluctancy to do it over again. Prefer to try a mild solid combination.

 

Solid lifters are not your answer. They only last so long.

A properly set up hyd roller will last a very long time make good power and rev 7500 no problem. Also the proper lifter for the application.

Tim

 

Sounds like you did something very wrong. Guys turn over 8K and over .700 lift.

 

Here's a tread dino difference using a fast intake LSXR and cold air intake, scroll for dino sheets, pls note is not an ls3 and don't have a 102mm throttle body either.

Should work even better with the better heads and more compression like the OP is going to use.

I know Fast intake is not the best but it works and imo is a well worth investment.


http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/217...uspeed-otrcai/

 

No way Id run solids in an LS app. They don't like extended low RPM use and , unlike the SBC platform, you have to pull the heads to check them every couple thousand miles. You can use a short preload hyd lifter and run well over 7Krpms and drive for 10,000s of miles and never worry about them. Hyd lifters can fail, just like any thing else will. Solid rollers WILL fail unless you check and replace them as needed and buy a new set of head gaskets every time when you do. Very bad move on a car you will drive much!

 

On the small block Fords to adjust the valve lash on solid lifter cams you must rotate crankshaft 3 times, however on the GM ls series small block engines you can adjust "all" 16 valves in only two crankshaft positions which makes it that much easier.
No reason to stay away from this blessing, what's even better is nowadays with the advantage of computer profile camshaft lobe designs instead of running .021 0r .022 valve lash is only .016 and you don't even hear it, in fact the average fuel injector action may be louder than that of a solid lifter valve lash today, and been able to keep these tolerances to exacting specs means to me I can't possibly just walk away from it.

No more collapse lifter and no more spring to make up for imperfection? or ignorance of the fact that if you measure the different tolerances between hydraulic lifter valve lash no two of then been likely the same often 2-3 and 10 0r more thousands different.

Been able to tune my valve train is a joy to me and my engine song uhmmm sweet.

Here's is how to do it; 6.0L

With the engine in number one firing position tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:

.Tighten

.Tighten exhaust valve rocker arm bolt 1, 2, 7, and 8 to 30 N.m (22 lb. ft.)

.Tighten intake valve rocker arm bolts 1, 3, 4 and 5 to 30 N.m (22 lb. ft.)

ROTATE CRANKSHAFT 360 degrees.

.Tighten the following rocker arm bolts:

.Tighten

.Tighten exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3, 4, 5, and 6 to 30 N.m (22 lb. ft.)

.Tighten intake valve rocker arm bolts 2, 6, 7, and 8 to 30 N.m (22 lb. ft.)

Hope this will take the enigma out of the solid roller lifter performance valve train and help somebody tech horizon be clearer and more powerful engines will result from a little joyful extra but fruitful effort.

 

I don't know what that could have possibly been apart from not purchasing the better morels to start with..

Heads and springs were set up by AES, custom jesels, perfect preload on the lifters, 3/8 pushrods.. And it lasted 10,000km over a whole year with about 20ish passes at the drags before I broke a tiebar whilst driving home from work one afternoon..

I did turn it to 7400ish at a guess..

 

The lifter being hyd had nothing to do with your failure.
As much as you drive it I would not do hyd. They will not last .

Tim

 

The problem is poor oiling at idle for the needle bearings in the rollers. At WOT, they are great ! Its been an issue forever. The guys with BBC and SBC engines don't have a problem running them, because all you have to do to get to the lifters and check them is pull the intake and rockers. I wouldn't even consider it on an LS because its expensive to pull the heads every 2 to 3K miles to just check the lifters, especially since a well setup hyd roller can spin to 7K + with ease. I spin my LS3 to 7K every time I punch it and that's with stock lifters! I read an article just a couple days ago where CarCraft was spinning an SBC to 8500 RPMs in a test of short travel hyd lifters!! 8500??!! Why would you ever need a solid roller?

 

How about a solid roller cam with say morel 5206 lifters?

Or are the LSK lobes or similar good for what I want?

 

I understand what your saying, what are you looking for when you inspect the lifters though? And why wouldn't you inspect the hydraulic lifters in the same manner?

I think my valve train is a bit heavy for stock lifters though. Stainless valves, k800 springs etc

 

This is why I have someone design my stuff. I let their years of experience work for me. Flowtechinduction.com does all my stuff I have never had stuff that didn't exceed expectations .

Tim

 

Here's a deal, short travel have a 0.010 max preload;

Here's what that means to the user, you must use adjustable rocker arm to get them to work, well thank me for these information and now please ask me how I know.
No way you can get them short travel lifters to work with the hydraulic lifter run bolts till tight and start up your engine and you are ready to go!-

Your valves will be staying partially open and engine takes long to start then when it finally starts you'll be on the phone with the lifter manufacturer asking what you did wrong, now here's your answer, He will not tell you cause they fail to warn you those lifters require individual adjustment just like the solids.

So when you finally figure it all out for yourself you will be doing one of two options you'll be pegged up against;

#1 Send the lifters back if you are lucky and they decide to accept them.

Or #2 Sell them and get the real deal sense you'll be buying adjustable rockers anyway.

Now to advance a long story short if you decide to keep your short travel lifters you still be adjusting then to under 0.010 so you are running less margin of tolerances than the venerable solids running perfect control valve timing at 0.016 which makes me very comfortable AND I'm not running at the edge of my luck.

One more thing must make clear, in all of my years running solid roller lifters never ever have I had any ware problems at all with the lifters or the cams and all my cars are 99% street use.

No need to fear having to remove heads to adjust lifters on ls engines, lifters don't get adjusted, what get the adjustment is the rocker arm and the filler gauge is placed between the top of the valve stem and the roller rocker arm wheel which rides on the valve steam.

The rockers will be first completely tight, Install one at a time and "after" you adjust the valve lash using an adjuster stud with the push rod cap underneath, this is very easy and fun to do, these adjustment stud is not present in any other rocker but the adjustable type, when you have the lash rite tighten up the nut done, then you know you have your valve train tune like clock work.

 

Its my understanding that the lash adjustment is the reason the lifters fail, along with poor oiling during light throttle or idle. The lifter wheels get slammed against the lobes every time the cam rotates. This will flat spot the needle bearings and cause the roller to stop working. Eventually you will have needles working there way through your engine. The way to check the lifters when you pull them is to make sure they roll easily without any catches. There are a couple companies that are building solid roller lifters that have a ceramic wheel with no needle bearings .They roll on a layer of oil, just like the bearings in you engine. Those would be the only ones I would ever consider running in a street car build.
CAMSTER, doesn't that just mean you need to measure for pushrods? You know, ones that will pull down to the .010 pre load when the rockers are tightened all the way down. That's camshaft 101 when dealing with a non adjustable valve train. It will take a pushrod that is slightly shorter so it doesn't push the pushrod too deep into the lifter.
I also know you don't have to pull the heads to adjust the lash, only to check for possible lifter failure. Ive run solid flat tappet cams for 30+ yrs and fully understand the procedure for adjusting lash .

 

Camster and newschool72 need to both stop posting.

That is what I have learned in this thread.

 

Push rod length check necessary...

Establishing push rod length is done after you have the lifters and rockers installed with both heads properly torqued using an adjustable push rod, and rockers installed pedestal torqued, I like to check and record every one individually to get the picture of what exactly I'm up against so there be no surprises later, the tread of adjuster must be first run in all the way and backed out about a full tread, this will give enough adjusting while keeping the push rod shortest possible length for minimum push rod weight.
I use 3/8 diameter push rods 0.084 wall instead of 5/16 with thicker wall cause they are lighter and about 60% stronger, this is possible with the Mast heads.

bellow my favorite drop in solid lifters and the ones I use, note needles can't be seen nor can they get out, these lifters are only 96 grams each.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/...FY3m7Aod4RwA3w