Oil pressures with "blocked off" DOD engine?
Anyone putting in lighter relief valve springs with these DOD oil pumps? Seems like I'm losing a ton of power running excessive oil pressures. Wouldn't mind dropping it down a bit. I've got a few gen 3 oil pumps laying around. Anyone know if dropping in a gen3 spring will drop pressure considerably?
running 5w30 oil now. Was thinking of dropping to 0w20 oil.
Suggestions?
Thanks!

Mine is a little turbo setup, but nothing fancy.
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My dad's car makes that kind of oil pressure has 20,000 miles on it with no issues. My car makes more than that with no issues.
Kurt Urban runs them that high had he has been building these engines longer than anyone.
Tim
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Kurt and I have talked and alum block engines can't get big on the mains or you have problems that pressure and volume won't fix. Been there tried it.
Tim
Thanks!
Last edited by Forcefed86; Apr 4, 2014 at 07:03 AM.
Oil pump is not port matched or anything.
I would not mess with the spring. The pressure isnt a problem any extra volume may be though sometimes. If you use a thinner oil you may likely see lower pressure as well.
On a cold start (which is what I imagine the 1k rpm idle is) you should see higher than that. I have a truck with 200k miles on it and it has 40-45 at idle (650 rpm). I would not have messed with the spring at all.
I run a $500 engine that I removed the GM DOD option on. The oil pressure was excessive in my case. From what I've read there is no benefit to running excessive oil pressure. It wears out your pump more quickly, and robs additional power to create higher pressure.
In my application what I did was beneficial both in power production and pump longevity. Releasing tension on the spring by cutting a few coils hurts nothing. 10psi for evey 1000rpm is the standard, and a perfectly OK pressure range IMO.
Nascar runs 50psi at 9000 rpm and around 20psi during qualifying for the added power. Now I know I'm not driving a nascar, but to say my junker needs 90+ at a blistering 6500rpm seems crazy.
Also there is nothing poor about the quality of the oil I’m using. It meets/ exceeds the GM requirements and is the suggested GM weight. Buying into expensive oil theories is a giant load of crap. Money is better spent elsewhere IMO. Especially when your running a $500 engine.
(the 35-40psi was a fully warm idle)
Last edited by Forcefed86; May 23, 2014 at 03:20 PM.
The quality of the base stock oil will change by huge degrees.
If you want a better idea on oil bobistheoilguy's forum has everything you could ever think of in regards to that.
NASCAR engines arent $500 jy engines either. Nor can you buy their oil over the counter.






