Gearhead115

I am going to be using an lq4 block and crank with better rods and pistons.. I am going to use the ls3\l92 heads. I found a set on summit for 600 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...FTRMMgodIFYA8A

and a set on ebay, but they are an off brand and seem a bit different, can anyone tell me which is better
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-LS3-L92-L76-250cc-64cc-As-Cast-Bare-Aluminum-Cylinder-Head-/171375286978?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e6c35ac2&vxp=mtr
I know you need to match valve springs to cams so I was wondering if these two will go together http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...9#.U70_wvldWap

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/chevrolet

The intended use is in an extreme 4x4 with aprox. 44 inch tires. I want a nice fat mid range with a wide torque curve, but also decent hp. I am new to all of this and havn't started getting parts together yet, so if anything I stated was wrong please let me know.. I am trying to avoid making any costly mistakes (I know fat chance right lol) Thanks in advance for any useful input

Brian Tooley Racing

iTrader: (13)

You should go for the genuine GM LS3 heads as they have powdered metal valve guides which will withstand the side loading incurred by using stock rockers. The bronze guides in the ebay heads will wear rapidly when stock rockers.

The cam looks good, but a custom cam could yield more mid range torque.

The Comp 26925TI-kit would be better than the 921 kit in my opinion.

Please consider our dual spring kit also. http://www.briantooleyracing.com/660...ers-sk001.html

Gearhead115

What specs would you recommend for a custom grind? And would it work well with the springs you linked me?

Brian Tooley Racing

iTrader: (13)

We offer several cams designed specifically for LS3 heads. Our Stage I cam is what I'd use in a heavier vehicle as that's what it was designed for. The specs are 221/228 .609"/.571" 112+2.

In back to back testing less exhaust lift make more torque everywhere, so that's why our cams are designed the way that they are.

http://www.briantooleyracing.com/nat...-camshaft.html

Brian Tooley Racing

iTrader: (13)

We also offer the cam in a kit form with your choice of spring kit and pushrods. http://www.briantooleyracing.com/btr...-pushrods.html

Gearhead115

Now to sound like an idiot, how would I know which length pushrods I need? I was under the impression you needed the cam and valve springs and all that installed to measure? Thanks for your patients

redtan

iTrader: (5)

You do need the cam and heads installed to measure exact length, but you can also estimate a rough number based on certain factors.

What I did was estimate such a range, then bought several different lengths around that number some shorter some longer. Then when I finally measured, I used the correct one and returned the rest.

Tootall

iTrader: (78)

any dyno graphs or builds with this cam?

sound clips ?

Always2Slow

iTrader: (8)

There are a few things that would concern me about this head, but doesn't mean it isn't a good head, I just have no experience with these castings. First, how good is the aluminum. Will it warp because its a cheap Chinese casting or is it actually a decent core. Second is how are the guides machined are they all over the place? Can they be honed in properly? Then its on to the valve seats. How well is it actually cut and will it even seal with a decent valve. What I do like about the casting based on specs is the combustion chamber is 4cc smaller than a GM head which is great for your application. Considering you won't rev high using a roller rocker isn't going to be detrimental to your build.