Road race engine characteristics
08-03-2014, 07:54 AM
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Road race engine characteristics I don't know what characteristics makes a good road racing engine. I want a very powerful engine that I can drag race occasionally but more importantly will perform well and not run hot. Currently engine is stock bottom ls1 that just won't die 425/400. Runs 12 and does great at road course. However I want above viper power. I've almost bought a 2013 viper 3 times but the price is stupid to just take to track and kill. So, I don't really have a budget. Just need reliable engine with most power. Any suggestions?
08-03-2014, 08:16 AM
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08-03-2014, 05:57 PM
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I won't have the patience to be tabbing things. I'm thinking of just calling a builder like tsp or Thompson. But I don't know what makes it more reliable is it timing, the heads flow, compression etc.
08-03-2014, 07:14 PM
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But I don't know what makes it more reliable is it timing, the heads flow, compression etc.
08-03-2014, 10:50 PM
#5
Overall vehicle weight and real downforce is the most important thing for road racing. A 500lb difference in weight between 2 cars is like night/day.
You can have 600rwhp but if your car is 3600lbs it will still be a pig in the corners and eat up tires faster.
If you aren't racing on slicks you don't really need a dry sump system. You can simply run an AccuSump to catch any hiccups if the oil pressure drops. Biggest cubes your budget can afford, not a peaky powerband, oil coolers and quality radiator and hood venting if you race in hot weather.
If you are serious about it... start with a different chassis. A turn key car can save you tens of thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours of build/development time.
My next road race motor in the works is a 4.19" bore, 4" stroke 441ci setup. Big compression, wide powerband with gobs of tq. Dry sump oiling, solid roller, 4-8K rpm powerband. Shooting for 650-700rwhp all motor. I plan to run e85 as its 106 octane and only $3/gal. I also plan to drop 100lbs+ from my car.
You can have 600rwhp but if your car is 3600lbs it will still be a pig in the corners and eat up tires faster.
If you aren't racing on slicks you don't really need a dry sump system. You can simply run an AccuSump to catch any hiccups if the oil pressure drops. Biggest cubes your budget can afford, not a peaky powerband, oil coolers and quality radiator and hood venting if you race in hot weather.
If you are serious about it... start with a different chassis. A turn key car can save you tens of thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours of build/development time.
My next road race motor in the works is a 4.19" bore, 4" stroke 441ci setup. Big compression, wide powerband with gobs of tq. Dry sump oiling, solid roller, 4-8K rpm powerband. Shooting for 650-700rwhp all motor. I plan to run e85 as its 106 octane and only $3/gal. I also plan to drop 100lbs+ from my car.
Last edited by gnx7; 08-03-2014 at 11:15 PM.