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Planning a 418/427 for a 2000 Corvette.

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Old 11-29-2014, 01:28 AM
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Easy recipe for 900rwhp. Forged LS3 stroked to a 416, stock LS3 intake, blower cam spec'd for your setup, good heads and fuel setup, YSi with a 10 rib setup. Also since you want to stay on pump gas keep the compression around a solid 10:0-10:2 area so it won't be sluggish off boost but you also won't need a lot of boost to achieve your goal.
Old 11-29-2014, 10:42 AM
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I know the 416 will do it, the question is what parts in it to make it do it for 30 minutes.

Corvette guys keep saying a 418 will not run at 5000 rpms for 30 minutes.
If it will it will cost over $10k for just the short block. I think they are being your
typical corvette owner who thinks these cars belong in a glass case.

I am starting to think an LS1 bases 383 will hold up better.
A few shops have said it is the strongest block and will be the easiest to cool.
Old 11-29-2014, 11:50 AM
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Callies crank and rods with diamon pistons. Stick to the forced induction section of the corvette forum. You'll be fine. LS3 is far superior to a LS1.
Old 12-01-2014, 11:23 AM
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Just buy a built short block and be done with it.
Old 12-01-2014, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1nut346
Just buy a built short block and be done with it.
That has always been the plan.
Still have to pick the right block and parts that go inside it.

Current Plan:
L33 5.3 aluminum block
Diamond pistons
Thompson Motorsports 4340 forged H-beam connecting rods
ARP 8740 rod bolts
Thompson Motorsports 4340 forged crank
modified King racing main and rod bearing
TMS single piece cam bearings.
Old 12-01-2014, 02:12 PM
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That will make for a great set up. Let us know if we can help you in any way.
Old 12-03-2014, 08:27 PM
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Road race aluminum block bores expand more than iron.....meaning bearing crush is less and oil clearance (mostly around the lifters) is more.....leading to low oil pressure. Step 1 is a Huge oil cooler/radiator (and batwing pan if possible if still wet sump). Step 1.5 is to lose the ac condenser. Step 2 (or 1.5 if ls7) is an aftermarket dry sump with more tank capacity as these become oil cooled motors after 20 minutes of hard running. Step 3 is bushed lifter bores and pinned cam bearings. Heat extractor hoods help. Don't forget to run a steam vent kit to prevent #7 piston failures caused by tight ring end gaps.

Drivers put different heat into the oil, so you may need to go directly to stage 3. As race durations increase, you are going to have to take more responsibility for bearing failures regardless of the machining and rotating assembly inside. Make sure the builder knows what you are doing with the car. The oil pump flow used can't be too little or too much (if wet sump), and whether or not you are willing to take responsibility for running bearing clearances on the tight side.

Last edited by briannutter; 12-03-2014 at 08:40 PM.
Old 12-04-2014, 08:16 AM
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cooling is covered.

Have you seen where guys cut the front license plate frame out
to allow air to there inter cooler? Well I cut that out and have added an oil cooler.
It is above and in front of the intercooler. The issue is keeping the oil warm
enough not cool enough.

If on the new engine it is not efficient I can added a dry sump and a larger oil cooler.

My concern is the block... I will address all the other needs at a later time.
its stupid to buy a bunch of external parts when you don't even know the block.

I'm locked to cathedral heads cause I am not buying another set of headers or another intake.
Not going to get locked in again.

Step 1. FIGURE OUT THE ENGINE

Breaks, Cooling, Blower, Tires, Wide Body, Stereo, whatever else
is all decided after the engine is planned.

And I am not taking out my A/C.
Old 12-04-2014, 08:17 AM
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What is this:
Don't forget to run a steam vent kit to prevent #7 piston failures caused by tight ring end gaps.
Old 12-04-2014, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by briannutter
Road race aluminum block bores expand more than iron.....meaning bearing crush is less and oil clearance (mostly around the lifters) is more.....leading to low oil pressure. Step 1 is a Huge oil cooler/radiator (and batwing pan if possible if still wet sump). Step 1.5 is to lose the ac condenser. Step 2 (or 1.5 if ls7) is an aftermarket dry sump with more tank capacity as these become oil cooled motors after 20 minutes of hard running. Step 3 is bushed lifter bores and pinned cam bearings. Heat extractor hoods help. Don't forget to run a steam vent kit to prevent #7 piston failures caused by tight ring end gaps.
Interesting input. I've never heard of pinning the cam bearings, I'll have to look that up.
Old 12-04-2014, 10:15 AM
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I've have a roadrace customer walk the cam bearings because oil temps were too hot (hit 300) and he hadn't shifted to drysump yet. Drysump solves a lot of problems with capacity and the coolers, so pinning may not be mandatory;-but it is available.

To the OP: Water jackets are poor at the ends of the cylinder heads because of packaging constraints, so cooling on #7 is compromised. I popped my stock #7 piston just a couple months ago at a track day just a couple months ago and I was only making 450whp. Kurt Urban and others sell kits to get additional waterflow around the chambers.

Last edited by briannutter; 12-04-2014 at 11:13 AM.
Old 12-04-2014, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by briannutter
To the OP: Water jackets are poor at the ends of the cylinder heads because of packaging constraints, so cooling on #7 in compromised. I popped my stock #7 piston just a couple months ago at a track day just a couple months ago and I'm was only making 450whp. Kurt Urban and others sell kits to get additional waterflow around the chambers.
I have read of people melting #7 but no one had a reason.
This is great information and I will defiantly be researching in
and talking to whom ever builds the block.
Old 12-04-2014, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Detoxx03
Easy recipe for 900rwhp. Forged LS3 stroked to a 416, stock LS3 intake, blower cam spec'd for your setup, good heads and fuel setup, YSi with a 10 rib setup. Also since you want to stay on pump gas keep the compression around a solid 10:0-10:2 area so it won't be sluggish off boost but you also won't need a lot of boost to achieve your goal.
pretty good...i did it with a novi 2000 and an 8 rib...and lower comp than 10.0...there are so many ways at it ..its not rocket science
Old 12-05-2014, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by quickvert1
pretty good...i did it with a novi 2000 and an 8 rib...and lower comp than 10.0...there are so many ways at it ..its not rocket science
Exactly. Plenty of ways to do it but not has hard as people think.



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