Planning a 418/427 for a 2000 Corvette.
#21
10 Second Club
iTrader: (14)
Easy recipe for 900rwhp. Forged LS3 stroked to a 416, stock LS3 intake, blower cam spec'd for your setup, good heads and fuel setup, YSi with a 10 rib setup. Also since you want to stay on pump gas keep the compression around a solid 10:0-10:2 area so it won't be sluggish off boost but you also won't need a lot of boost to achieve your goal.
#22
I know the 416 will do it, the question is what parts in it to make it do it for 30 minutes.
Corvette guys keep saying a 418 will not run at 5000 rpms for 30 minutes.
If it will it will cost over $10k for just the short block. I think they are being your
typical corvette owner who thinks these cars belong in a glass case.
I am starting to think an LS1 bases 383 will hold up better.
A few shops have said it is the strongest block and will be the easiest to cool.
Corvette guys keep saying a 418 will not run at 5000 rpms for 30 minutes.
If it will it will cost over $10k for just the short block. I think they are being your
typical corvette owner who thinks these cars belong in a glass case.
I am starting to think an LS1 bases 383 will hold up better.
A few shops have said it is the strongest block and will be the easiest to cool.
#25
That has always been the plan.
Still have to pick the right block and parts that go inside it.
Current Plan:
L33 5.3 aluminum block
Diamond pistons
Thompson Motorsports 4340 forged H-beam connecting rods
ARP 8740 rod bolts
Thompson Motorsports 4340 forged crank
modified King racing main and rod bearing
TMS single piece cam bearings.
Still have to pick the right block and parts that go inside it.
Current Plan:
L33 5.3 aluminum block
Diamond pistons
Thompson Motorsports 4340 forged H-beam connecting rods
ARP 8740 rod bolts
Thompson Motorsports 4340 forged crank
modified King racing main and rod bearing
TMS single piece cam bearings.
#27
Road race aluminum block bores expand more than iron.....meaning bearing crush is less and oil clearance (mostly around the lifters) is more.....leading to low oil pressure. Step 1 is a Huge oil cooler/radiator (and batwing pan if possible if still wet sump). Step 1.5 is to lose the ac condenser. Step 2 (or 1.5 if ls7) is an aftermarket dry sump with more tank capacity as these become oil cooled motors after 20 minutes of hard running. Step 3 is bushed lifter bores and pinned cam bearings. Heat extractor hoods help. Don't forget to run a steam vent kit to prevent #7 piston failures caused by tight ring end gaps.
Drivers put different heat into the oil, so you may need to go directly to stage 3. As race durations increase, you are going to have to take more responsibility for bearing failures regardless of the machining and rotating assembly inside. Make sure the builder knows what you are doing with the car. The oil pump flow used can't be too little or too much (if wet sump), and whether or not you are willing to take responsibility for running bearing clearances on the tight side.
Drivers put different heat into the oil, so you may need to go directly to stage 3. As race durations increase, you are going to have to take more responsibility for bearing failures regardless of the machining and rotating assembly inside. Make sure the builder knows what you are doing with the car. The oil pump flow used can't be too little or too much (if wet sump), and whether or not you are willing to take responsibility for running bearing clearances on the tight side.
Last edited by briannutter; 12-03-2014 at 08:40 PM.
#28
cooling is covered.
Have you seen where guys cut the front license plate frame out
to allow air to there inter cooler? Well I cut that out and have added an oil cooler.
It is above and in front of the intercooler. The issue is keeping the oil warm
enough not cool enough.
If on the new engine it is not efficient I can added a dry sump and a larger oil cooler.
My concern is the block... I will address all the other needs at a later time.
its stupid to buy a bunch of external parts when you don't even know the block.
I'm locked to cathedral heads cause I am not buying another set of headers or another intake.
Not going to get locked in again.
Step 1. FIGURE OUT THE ENGINE
Breaks, Cooling, Blower, Tires, Wide Body, Stereo, whatever else
is all decided after the engine is planned.
And I am not taking out my A/C.
Have you seen where guys cut the front license plate frame out
to allow air to there inter cooler? Well I cut that out and have added an oil cooler.
It is above and in front of the intercooler. The issue is keeping the oil warm
enough not cool enough.
If on the new engine it is not efficient I can added a dry sump and a larger oil cooler.
My concern is the block... I will address all the other needs at a later time.
its stupid to buy a bunch of external parts when you don't even know the block.
I'm locked to cathedral heads cause I am not buying another set of headers or another intake.
Not going to get locked in again.
Step 1. FIGURE OUT THE ENGINE
Breaks, Cooling, Blower, Tires, Wide Body, Stereo, whatever else
is all decided after the engine is planned.
And I am not taking out my A/C.
#30
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
Road race aluminum block bores expand more than iron.....meaning bearing crush is less and oil clearance (mostly around the lifters) is more.....leading to low oil pressure. Step 1 is a Huge oil cooler/radiator (and batwing pan if possible if still wet sump). Step 1.5 is to lose the ac condenser. Step 2 (or 1.5 if ls7) is an aftermarket dry sump with more tank capacity as these become oil cooled motors after 20 minutes of hard running. Step 3 is bushed lifter bores and pinned cam bearings. Heat extractor hoods help. Don't forget to run a steam vent kit to prevent #7 piston failures caused by tight ring end gaps.
#31
I've have a roadrace customer walk the cam bearings because oil temps were too hot (hit 300) and he hadn't shifted to drysump yet. Drysump solves a lot of problems with capacity and the coolers, so pinning may not be mandatory;-but it is available.
To the OP: Water jackets are poor at the ends of the cylinder heads because of packaging constraints, so cooling on #7 is compromised. I popped my stock #7 piston just a couple months ago at a track day just a couple months ago and I was only making 450whp. Kurt Urban and others sell kits to get additional waterflow around the chambers.
To the OP: Water jackets are poor at the ends of the cylinder heads because of packaging constraints, so cooling on #7 is compromised. I popped my stock #7 piston just a couple months ago at a track day just a couple months ago and I was only making 450whp. Kurt Urban and others sell kits to get additional waterflow around the chambers.
Last edited by briannutter; 12-04-2014 at 11:13 AM.
#32
To the OP: Water jackets are poor at the ends of the cylinder heads because of packaging constraints, so cooling on #7 in compromised. I popped my stock #7 piston just a couple months ago at a track day just a couple months ago and I'm was only making 450whp. Kurt Urban and others sell kits to get additional waterflow around the chambers.
This is great information and I will defiantly be researching in
and talking to whom ever builds the block.
#33
Staging Lane
Join Date: Nov 2013
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Easy recipe for 900rwhp. Forged LS3 stroked to a 416, stock LS3 intake, blower cam spec'd for your setup, good heads and fuel setup, YSi with a 10 rib setup. Also since you want to stay on pump gas keep the compression around a solid 10:0-10:2 area so it won't be sluggish off boost but you also won't need a lot of boost to achieve your goal.