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Thoughts on gen 4 6.0 427 stroker

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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 05:19 AM
  #21  
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Speaking of RED I spoke to Steve Monday. One of the nicest people I've ever talk too and let me tell you he is so knowledgeable. Told me the truth about each block out there to be sleeved. He told me the aluminum 5.3 is the best block ever to sleeve, then a 6.0 LS2 block is next. Then he went on to tell me that he rather sleeve a LS2 block over a LS3 block for resleeving.
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 10:35 AM
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Ole news, Steve & RED been the sleeve King.
A very kind young man.
Now we come back to cash, factory stroker or resleeved stroker at which we may as well do a 454 resleeved block. The 5.3 iron block has the longest sleeve of all the iron blocks again, could it be done yes / is it best No.

Last edited by lil john; Dec 27, 2014 at 10:47 AM.
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Jontall
You guys are cruel... That block will not work with that crank shaft, but there are other options. You can get a sleeved block from ERL, or RED and it will work great with new pistons. Wiseco has off the shelf pistons for that stroke all the way to a 4.200" bore.
what block wont work with that crank? ive run the 4.125 crank in the 6.0 bored 30 over for over a year now with no problems making over 500 rwhp... if you havent tried it then you shouldnt speak to it
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Strokedcamaroz28
what block wont work with that crank? ive run the 4.125 crank in the 6.0 bored 30 over for over a year now with no problems making over 500 rwhp... if you havent tried it then you shouldnt speak to it
not trying to sound like a jerk or anything, im just saying a lot of people say it wont work but ive already run it in a 6.0 so it does work as well as texas speed selling packages for the same block and stroke..
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Strokedcamaroz28
what block wont work with that crank? ive run the 4.125 crank in the 6.0 bored 30 over for over a year now with no problems making over 500 rwhp... if you havent tried it then you shouldnt speak to it
You're not the only one, the combination has worked for a lot of people quiet well.
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 03:19 PM
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Will it work yes is it the best overall combination no. The crank pulls the piston down quit a bit but if you like it I love it. Custom piston's are key, for a drag engine it is cool, but for the street it's just not recommended. Back to the point of can it be done, yes but most good engine builders would generally tell you to stick with a 4 inch crank.

Last edited by lil john; Dec 27, 2014 at 03:29 PM.
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 03:38 PM
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I have seen guys run 2 rings on the piston but I wouldn't do that myself....
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by lil john
Will it work yes is it the best overall combination no. The crank pulls the piston down quit a bit but if you like it I love it. Custom piston's are key, for a drag engine it is cool, but for the street it's just not recommended. Back to the point of can it be done, yes but most good engine builders would generally tell you to stick with a 4 inch crank.
You don't even need custom pistons, shelf 4.100"/4.125" pistons work just fine even for the streetcar builds. They really aren't any worse than a 4" stroke combination except you have a thinner (lighter) piston.
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Tuskyz28
I have seen guys run 2 rings on the piston but I wouldn't do that myself....
Yeah, that's definitely not streetcar friendly. Haha
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 04:56 PM
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im leaning on replacing my .060 over 6.0 with a .030 over ls3 block and keeping the 4.125 crank and hitting it with the nitrous.. i will have a cutom piston made for higher compression though..

i figure its better to be only .30 over in a cast aluminum block then .060 over in a cast iron if i plan on spraying it with 200-250
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Strokedcamaroz28
im leaning on replacing my .060 over 6.0 with a .030 over ls3 block and keeping the 4.125 crank and hitting it with the nitrous.. i will have a cutom piston made for higher compression though..

i figure its better to be only .30 over in a cast aluminum block then .060 over in a cast iron if i plan on spraying it with 200-250
No matter if it is a iron block be sure to get is sonic check or whatever they call it.....
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Tuskyz28
No matter if it is a iron block be sure to get is sonic check or whatever they call it.....


the ls3 block im thinking of using is cast aluminum not iron, would i still need it sonic checked if i only bored it .030 over?
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 03:49 AM
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LS3 block is like 4.065 bore from the factory. I thought you said of using some LQ block for a 4.065 bore. In that case you'll need to have it sonic checked.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 08:27 AM
  #34  
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Now you talking the ls3 sleeve is longer and less problems with pulling the pistons down past the rings with short sleeves.


If you could find out about Diet Coke same build ls3 with 4.1+ stroke I'm sure you will enjoy:-)
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 09:00 AM
  #35  
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Here's a ole article from 2007, LS blocks & pistons haven't changed that much over 7yrs.
Hi Richard, the 4.125 stroke cranks can be done with conventional land placement if the racer can accept a limited capacity for nitrous or psi. Our 1.050 compression height parts have the pin .010 below the top surface of the 3rd groove, a .230 top land, and .142 2nd land (the maximum possible).

The practice of running the pin bore into the 3rd land is a last resort...only to be done if there isn't enough room for necessary dish volume or there isn't enough left over ring land thickness to support the horsepower (big nos, supercharged, etc). In racing applications, it's better to have oil consumption than piston breakage. Was I the person you consulted with at Wiseco about these pistons? If so, we haven't had negative feedback on the "pin in the 3rd land" previously, but email me at bnutter@wiseco.com and we'll see if we can get to the bottom of it.

-Brian Nutter-Wiseco Pistons

Also from Mr. Nutter....
I talked to Richard on this this morning. The original engine was boosted and had nitous before and had problems. For the 2nd build, the engine ran Wiseco's and piston was designed for boosted AND nitrous usage...-18cc dish necessitating the extra thick lands. A quart every 800 quarter mile runs is permissable, but a quart every 200 miles on the street is tough to deal with. The engine is now being built with a 4" crank with normal piston with the conventional pin placement.

****For guys reading this thread thinking about a 4.100/4.125 crank; the 1.050 compression height piston with mandated .237 top and .140 2nd land (with standard pin placement) is fine on the street with mild boost. As long as the skirt shape is ok, oil usage shouldn't be bad. Guys running nitrous should limit it to a very small shot or go back to a 4" crank..


Article may be a little old but I hope it helps you get all you want. We can never have to much information.

Last edited by lil john; Dec 28, 2014 at 09:13 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Tuskyz28
LS3 block is like 4.065 bore from the factory. I thought you said of using some LQ block for a 4.065 bore. In that case you'll need to have it sonic checked.
i have my choice of a 4.06 6.0 iron block or a ls3 block which i would bore out to 4.09-4.1
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 09:48 AM
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On either block it's not recommended. LQ9 .060 is about the max and the ls3 4.080 is the max with the stock cast iron sleeve throw in Nos on a thin stock sleeve tick.tick. BOOM.
Again can we do it Yes, but is it recommended no you've max out either block and the blocks won't be useful for rebuild.

Last edited by lil john; Dec 29, 2014 at 09:55 AM.
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