str8nsty

Can you tell me where I can find forged rods at stock length and pin size for that price

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Scat I beams are under 300, ws6store.com has em. Eagle hbeams are a bit over 400.

By the time you buy arp bolts and have the rods resized you're gonna spend over 200 bux. Take that money along with what you get for selling your current rods and the scats or eagles basically paid for themselves.

str8nsty

Do you know anybody that wants stock rods? I haven't tried to sell these but I've had no luck selling other stuff so I haven't tried. Plus I'd think if I don't want them then why would anyone else.

If those rods you talking about are 6.1 and I have the domes with 58cc chambers do I still have good clearence. I don't have any numbers right now I'm at work. I called wiseco and asked about the 13.5 degree valve angle and they said these pistons have a generous relief for 14 degree valves and I should be fine. If my machinest haven't touched the crank and rods yet I might try to the forged. But funds are an issue right now.

str8nsty

I just looked at the rods on ws6store.com. better prices than I've seen on summit and some others.

The I-beam list a .944 pin instead of .945 not sure about running those but the h-beam looks better at 6.100 and .945. Like I said funds are getting low still gotta pay for trans, converter, exhaust, and accessories

redtan

iTrader: (5)

You shouldn't have trouble selling those (at the right price of course). There are plenty of people that are 1) looking to upgrade their Gen III rods or 2) looking to do a stock rebuild.

For both of those types of people, the OEM Gen IV rod would be a good fit. For you however that plans on doing a high performance build it doesn't really, especially with the plethora of other options for not much more after you consider all the parts and work needed to upgrade your current rods with ARP bolts.

casias

iTrader: (1)

I am sure the "locals" in southeast texas are looking for you right now man. TMI!

JoeNova

Gen 4 rods have been pushed up to ~1400 HP or so. If you keep the RPM below 6600 or so, the stock bolts will work fine as well. Even today's powdered metal forgings are stronger than the forged rods of the 60s. The idea that you HAVE to have a forged bottom end to make 500 HP is ludicrous anymore. If you want forged rods for an N/A setup, it should be for nothing more than you want to reduce the rotating weight compared to the heavy gen 4 rods, because you certainly aren't going to break them from too much power.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Just because someone got lucky on a hero run and the rods didn't break does not mean Gen IV rods are good for that kind of power. Noone in their right mind will want to tear open their engine every few runs because they put a rod through the block and keep tossing stock rods in there. I wouldn't trust those rods to hold up 1400hp for hundreds of runs unlike true forged steel rods. Hell, Callies only rates their steel h beams at 800hp, so you think a flimsy PMF rod will hold 1400hp all day?

Noone said that you HAVE to have them at that power level, but would you really go through all that work and trouble to take the engine apart and spend thousands of dollars on improving it only to skimp on 1-200 bux on one of the most important pieces of the puzzle?

JoeNova

There are lots of guys making a whole lot more than 800 HP on their gen 4 rods for several seasons and thousands of miles.

I've snapped a Callies rod at 600 HP before. There are lots of factors that determine how long a rod lasts and lots of precautions you can take. I've never been a fan of throwing money at something that probably isn't necessary.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Necessary and nice to have/peace of mind are a completely different thing. Me personally I wouldn't think twice about putting in an extra 200 bux on an upgraded part after I've just dropped 8000 on a build. But hey, I'm just here to offer suggestions and people are free to spend their money as they see fit.

str8nsty

Ok guys calm down I understand both ways of thinking and belive in both. As in not skimping on something I need, but I'm not sure that I need forged rods. Do I want them yeah; do I want piece of mind yeah; do I have the money to go all out on every aspect of the build no.

I don't belive in cutting corners or doing something half *** but I don't think I am. I bought my truck new when I was stationed in Hawaii the Army paid to ship it home. It's an 07 and from day one I wanted a v8 in it but we all know how that story goes. Well after years of doing my homework; to the best of my ability, I've gotten the chance to build what I've always wanted. In a perfect world this would be the ZR1 canyon. But it's not.

And as far as tipping off the locals. I mean mostly people I know as I'm trying to keep this build under wraps until I'm finished and can show it off at local events and surprise a few others.

str8nsty

Thanks for the info and feedback. As soon as I'm in front of my computer and not my phone I'll try to post the pics I have so far. Mostly parts at this point and an empty engine bay.

Also I have the stock flat top pistons 3.78 bore, stock rockers, pushrods, and I think ls7 style lifters for sale. I'll double check the numbers on them when I get a chance but I belive they read the same as my new ls7 lifters. 799 heads all with only 41,000 miles. I have pics and will post soon.

str8nsty

The meat of this build














This look to be really nice. I can't wait to get started.





This cam is an upgrade from the original kit. This cam is .050 220/224 575/575 at 112.





There was another company that makes makes headers for the v8 canyon but I was not familiar with them nor had I ever heard of them so I went with these.








Katech chain 2 piece cover ls7 lifters and studs.











What do you guys think about this pump? I'm a little worried if it's too much. I'm using the the muscle car style gm oil pan.





I have cleaned the engine bay but it was after the pics were taken.








Plus 6 cc forged.





.010 over.





MSD starter was cheaper than anything else in summit that would work for me.





I don't remember the specs on these but they were the best I found for my app. Without going custom. Should keep it cool no matter the conditions.

str8nsty

Ok, the rods are done, the crank is washing and the block has been zero decked and is being bored right now. Next the line hone and back home for pre assembly.

str8nsty

Also I ordered a lsxrt intake fuel rails and fuel lines. I will send them all out for for porting along with the throttle body. The intake and heads will be port matched. Either Tony Mamo at tea or maybe Brian Tooley racing. Any others I'm not aware of that I should check out?

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

LOL on the bold faced above!

Brian was of course with TEA....my history was with AFR and now running my own business @ Mamo Motorsports (link below to my website).

I'm pretty much the source for this work (ported FAST intakes). I pioneered the process in 2004 when most shops said why would you have to do that etc. etc. and have pretty much perfected it over the last decade.

This is a great thread regarding the port work I do if some of you newer members are unfamiliar.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-102-fast.html

If I can be of some assistance let me know.....email, PM. or call me.....all my contact info is on my website

Cheers,
Tony

PS....I offer a couple of choices of aesthetic options as well....this one is clean looking




This one for a more OEM understated look.....I call it my "Stealth" mod

str8nsty

Thanks Tony! Last Thursday I talked to f.a.s.t. about there new black lsxrt and pre- order it that day as they were scheduled to arrive last friday. I was told then that one of the 108 units arriving that Friday would be mine as they were not all sold yet. Today I was told they were sold out and I'll have to wait. I'm going to call again in the morning and try to talk to someone there who does not just talk over me while I try to ask a question. I hope this is just a mix up as the sooner I get the intake the sooner you get it and the trickflow heads. Do you port throttle bodies too?

str8nsty

I've read that article. It's a good one as well as good pics to show the detail

WE TODD DID

iTrader: (2)

Make sure you relieve those sharp edges on the pistons around the valve pockets.

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

Yes....I do port TB's but assuming your going 102 billet its likely not even necessary....for the OEM units its a must have situation but not for the aftermarket billet 102's.

When your getting closer just email or PM me and we will arrange a phone call so I can get a clearer picture of what you have and where you want to go.

Regards,
Tony