aluminum 5.3 stock stroke build
#41
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That "stealth" mode of that intake is just awesome!! Pop the hood and you see a "oem" intake doing nasty work LOL.
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#43
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I got a call from my dad who was at the shop and he said some more parts came in today, but still no intake and still no straight answer from f.a.s.t. as to what is going on with the new intakes. I'm going a little crazy. I can't wait to get my hands on it so I can sent the intake heads and throttle body for a little massage. Ls2 throttle body by the way. I was told by "Pat G" that the 90 would be better for my app. As it will also be used around town and almost every day.
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bad news
Ok so I got my intake and throttle body back from Mamo Motorsports and finally got the time off with good weather to put my engine together. During pre assembly and blueprinting I notice that my bore, which was supposed to be a 3.7900 was actually 3.7963, And my pistons are 3.7865.
I called my machinest and he agreed he bored it wrong but now I have to do a max bore with an aluminum block at 3.8000 bore for a .020 overbore. More time till its up and running. Everything else looks great. So far. Still need to check heads and valve to piston but I think they will be fine.
I called my machinest and he agreed he bored it wrong but now I have to do a max bore with an aluminum block at 3.8000 bore for a .020 overbore. More time till its up and running. Everything else looks great. So far. Still need to check heads and valve to piston but I think they will be fine.
#47
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I called my machinest and he agreed he bored it wrong but now I have to do a max bore with an aluminum block at 3.8000 bore for a .020 overbore. More time till its up and running. Everything else looks great. So far. Still need to check heads and valve to piston but I think they will be fine.
#48
Ok so I got my intake and throttle body back from Mamo Motorsports and finally got the time off with good weather to put my engine together. During pre assembly and blueprinting I notice that my bore, which was supposed to be a 3.7900 was actually 3.7963, And my pistons are 3.7865.
I called my machinest and he agreed he bored it wrong but now I have to do a max bore with an aluminum block at 3.8000 bore for a .020 overbore. More time till its up and running. Everything else looks great. So far. Still need to check heads and valve to piston but I think they will be fine.
I called my machinest and he agreed he bored it wrong but now I have to do a max bore with an aluminum block at 3.8000 bore for a .020 overbore. More time till its up and running. Everything else looks great. So far. Still need to check heads and valve to piston but I think they will be fine.
KCS is right about the bore.....you might consider taking to opportunity to add some cubic inch....your machinist should be helping you with the block work and pistons anyway.....pop that baby to 5.7 liter for alot more torque!
-Tony
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Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
#49
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3.905 on an aluminum block!?
The pistons I'm using are designed to work with the 13.5 degree heads and give me 11.5:1 or better comp. But not sure if they are made for 3.90 but I'll check. Plus I want to make cretin that the gen 4 aluminum block is good at 3.90 bore.
The pistons I'm using are designed to work with the 13.5 degree heads and give me 11.5:1 or better comp. But not sure if they are made for 3.90 but I'll check. Plus I want to make cretin that the gen 4 aluminum block is good at 3.90 bore.
Last edited by str8nsty; 05-05-2015 at 09:44 PM. Reason: adding info
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knowing when to say when!
Ok I looked at the brand and series of pistons and they do not make the same ones in that size. They do make others in that size though. But I think I'm going to say when. I wanted to enhance the feel of my ride and I fear I may have already gone too far as in taking away from the fun of it. If I go any further I may just ruin it. I know that adding cubes helps move the rpm range down a little but will also add tq. For the sake of keeping this ride fun and finally getting it together I'll stay the course. But thanks for the info guys
#51
I hear you on the knowing to say when though....but if its not alot of trouble.....still consider it.....LOL
-Tony
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Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
#52
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OP is probably trying to find the mini dome in the 3.905 bore but with the small chambered heads, once you add the cubic inches, only a flat top is needed to reach the desired 11.50 compression. Perhaps a good used set of LS6 slugs at 3.898 would save a few bucks and end up 11.7-11.8 compression ratio with no valve reliefs.
THREE FORTY SIX INCHES FOR THE WIN
THREE FORTY SIX INCHES FOR THE WIN
#53
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Ok so I got my intake and throttle body back from Mamo Motorsports and finally got the time off with good weather to put my engine together. During pre assembly and blueprinting I notice that my bore, which was supposed to be a 3.7900 was actually 3.7963, And my pistons are 3.7865.
I called my machinest and he agreed he bored it wrong but now I have to do a max bore with an aluminum block at 3.8000 bore for a .020 overbore. More time till its up and running. Everything else looks great. So far. Still need to check heads and valve to piston but I think they will be fine.
I called my machinest and he agreed he bored it wrong but now I have to do a max bore with an aluminum block at 3.8000 bore for a .020 overbore. More time till its up and running. Everything else looks great. So far. Still need to check heads and valve to piston but I think they will be fine.
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pistons
I talked to summit earlier today and they sent the new pistons already the 3.8 mini dome. I'm not going to send those back and wait for another set. Should get the new ones by friday. Then re-start on the build the following weekend.
I already know my crank endplay and runout but figure I will check again so as to check my own work. Drop in the new slugs and check rod bolt stretch and rod clearence. I have silly puddy to use in place of assembly clay to check valve to piston. What other ways are better for checking this. I have books but not with me. The heads are new factory assembled trickflow genx 205 with 13.5 degree valves. pistons are so says wiseco made with a generous 14 degree valve angle relief.
I already know my crank endplay and runout but figure I will check again so as to check my own work. Drop in the new slugs and check rod bolt stretch and rod clearence. I have silly puddy to use in place of assembly clay to check valve to piston. What other ways are better for checking this. I have books but not with me. The heads are new factory assembled trickflow genx 205 with 13.5 degree valves. pistons are so says wiseco made with a generous 14 degree valve angle relief.
Last edited by str8nsty; 05-06-2015 at 07:12 PM. Reason: spelling
#56
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In case you guys are looking for 383 strokers with the aluminum blocks we have them in stock & ready to go.
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2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
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Ok I got my info on the ptv clearence procedure but I don't have an adjustable pushrod or doner lifters I'll check with my machinest for doner lifters.
Last edited by str8nsty; 05-08-2015 at 10:44 AM.
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