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ERL resleeved LS2 454 vs LSX 454

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Old 03-29-2015 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by EMpowerd3
OP this is a great thread with a lot of good info and even more good opinions. I wanted to give a little more info on the ERL blocks, as stated there area few different types of sleeved blocks that are sold and set up for different applications. Street application on stock sleeve packages to our dry sleeve then superdeck blocks that we rate to 1500hp packages! The web site offers the best info on packages and prices but; I wanted to give my opinion on the "race build" set ups and why we promote the 6 Bolt Superdeck. Again this is just my opinion at this point : the superdeck process (4 or 6 bolts) retains more of the factory casting than others out there. The addition of the weld in trusses to reduce the torsional side load created by "big power" will keep the block from distorting and in turn moving. With the additional 6 Bolt option to aid in the clampimg force and overall sealing I am bias to the ERL blocks being one of the best options out there for making power. As stated the tolerances and strict manufacturing processes on our in house products allow for the type of results we see. Somewhere in this section is a awesome write up on our shop tour with some great pictures of that. For the last time this is just my opinion on this and I am only putting that out there as such. I know there are many out there! My other opinion is you look into our M7 package.
wouldn't the superdeck require significantly more expensive custom intake manifolds, or spacers that would raise the top of the engine and sides of the engine past the hood and wheel wells of a stock fbody?
Old 03-29-2015 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by EMpowerd3
OP this is a great thread with a lot of good info and even more good opinions. I wanted to give a little more info on the ERL blocks, as stated there area few different types of sleeved blocks that are sold and set up for different applications. Street application on stock sleeve packages to our dry sleeve then superdeck blocks that we rate to 1500hp packages! The web site offers the best info on packages and prices but; I wanted to give my opinion on the "race build" set ups and why we promote the 6 Bolt Superdeck. Again this is just my opinion at this point : the superdeck process (4 or 6 bolts) retains more of the factory casting than others out there. The addition of the weld in trusses to reduce the torsional side load created by "big power" will keep the block from distorting and in turn moving. With the additional 6 Bolt option to aid in the clampimg force and overall sealing I am bias to the ERL blocks being one of the best options out there for making power. As stated the tolerances and strict manufacturing processes on our in house products allow for the type of results we see. Somewhere in this section is a awesome write up on our shop tour with some great pictures of that. For the last time this is just my opinion on this and I am only putting that out there as such. I know there are many out there! My other opinion is you look into our M7 package.
M7 is the one that I was looking at, with Hydraulic Lifter Bushings and LS2 Block core.
Old 03-29-2015 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by FCar2000TA
wouldn't the superdeck require significantly more expensive custom intake manifolds, or spacers that would raise the top of the engine and sides of the engine past the hood and wheel wells of a stock fbody?
The Superdeck II turns the block into a tall deck block which changes things but the Superdeck I (which I am having built now) requires nothing custom.
Old 03-29-2015 | 05:32 PM
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^ Correct. Sorry for the delayed response, the superdeck one 4 or 6 bolts remain standard deck height while the now discontinued superdeck two was the tall deck set up. I am glad you are looking at the M7. It is a proven package and with a nice set of heads they make great power and torque!
Old 04-04-2015 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by FCar2000TA
M7 is the one that I was looking at, with Hydraulic Lifter Bushings and LS2 Block core.
With the M7 you need to be careful because of the 4.185 bore. The area between cylinders on head gasket will be very thin. Do you plan on N02?

I went with the M2, 4.55 x 4.00
Old 04-05-2015 | 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Millenium Z06
With the M7 you need to be careful because of the 4.185 bore. The area between cylinders on head gasket will be very thin. Do you plan on N02?

I went with the M2, 4.55 x 4.00
Do you mean 4.155 X 4.00~ 434ci ?
I personally don't like the 4.185 bore wither because of what you said and the gaskets are also harder to get fully sealed with that size bore too.
Old 04-05-2015 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Tuskyz28
Do you mean 4.155 X 4.00~ 434ci ?
I personally don't like the 4.185 bore wither because of what you said and the gaskets are also harder to get fully sealed with that size bore too.
Yes, 4.155 x 4.0, went 4.0 instead of 4.1 to reduce piston speed otherwise I would have went to 440.
4.155 will give you 1 or 2 rebuilds too.

I know a guy that did 4.185 and N02 (200 shot), lost a head gaskets between the cylinder I suspect and filled the cylinder with coolant and oil, hydrolocked it and cracked the liner on an rhs block.
Old 04-05-2015 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Millenium Z06
Yes, 4.155 x 4.0, went 4.0 instead of 4.1 to reduce piston speed otherwise I would have went to 440.
4.155 will give you 1 or 2 rebuilds too.

I know a guy that did 4.185 and N02 (200 shot), lost a head gaskets between the cylinder I suspect and filled the cylinder with coolant and oil, hydrolocked it and cracked the liner on an rhs block.
I was go do the same thing but as you mention about rebuilds...... I agree. Looking to go from 427-434ci myself. As you mention the 4.1 stroke..... they nice but for a real street car I wouldn't recommend one due to it'll be harder to control the oil in the motor.
Old 04-05-2015 | 09:23 AM
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The M7 does have the largest bore provided on the Dry Sleeve Blocks. While it is suggested as a street/strip N/A engine I have seen some do what the above have said about tightening up the bore to help in sealing if a power adder such as NO2 is wanted. You could add a 1/2" HSK option to aid as well on a standard 4 bolt if desired. It is recommended to start at a 4.125" bore on most builds planning on any sort of power adder to aid in sealing, sleeve thickness and the ability to rebuild if needed.
Old 04-05-2015 | 09:34 AM
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It sucks reading you guys talk/type about doing these builds and knowing I will NEVER be able to afford one. LOL
Old 04-05-2015 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367
It sucks reading you guys talk/type about doing these builds and knowing I will NEVER be able to afford one. LOL
LOL... actually it's not that bad if you can score you a good used 5.3 aluminum block as a core.
Old 04-05-2015 | 05:50 PM
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They aren't the cheapest but they also are not the most expensive. I researched about every major option out there and settled on ERL. Great reputation. Great options. Reasonable price. Went with the 427 to give me plenty room for growth/rebuild. Cylinder sealing should not be a concern either.
Old 04-07-2015 | 08:17 PM
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Its not cheap by far and if you're an LS1, or 6 going to a Gen 4 its about $500 in extra parts and harness's.

You'll have about $11K in the ERL bottom end and a decent set of heads assuming you have a core block to send ERL.
Cam and other hard parts like front and rear engine cover, valley cover, water pump, sensors ect will cost you another $1500-2000 then there's install labor.
Old 04-13-2015 | 08:06 PM
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so what hp has been seen with this setup N/A max effort

i have a sleeved ls2 427 that made great power, im considering going through this process to get to at least a 440 ci or higher cube for a N/A setup.
just wondering if its worth the money.
i dont want power adders
Old 04-14-2015 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Millenium Z06
Its not cheap by far and if you're an LS1, or 6 going to a Gen 4 its about $500 in extra parts and harness's.

You'll have about $11K in the ERL bottom end and a decent set of heads assuming you have a core block to send ERL.
Cam and other hard parts like front and rear engine cover, valley cover, water pump, sensors ect will cost you another $1500-2000 then there's install labor.
ERL shortblock is about $8000 including the price of the LS2 block and ARP bolts and studs. That is about the same as an LSX 454 with the same parts.

I would reuse my stock LS1 accessories and heads for a year to get heads with the following year income tax return.

Last edited by FCar2000TA; 04-14-2015 at 08:48 AM.
Old 06-25-2015 | 09:24 PM
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So, ERL Superdeck I vs dry sleeved shortblock....

From what I am seeing, the Superdeck I comes with Billet main caps and ARP main studs (which I would get on the "non-Superdeck" block)..

Is there any reason to NOT go with the Superdeck I block?

- 99% chance of no boost or N02
- street car, drag strip 3-4 times a year
- 345/xx/19 tires on the back (hopefully)
Old 06-27-2015 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by FCar2000TA
So, ERL Superdeck I vs dry sleeved shortblock....

From what I am seeing, the Superdeck I comes with Billet main caps and ARP main studs (which I would get on the "non-Superdeck" block)..

Is there any reason to NOT go with the Superdeck I block?

- 99% chance of no boost or N02
- street car, drag strip 3-4 times a year
- 345/xx/19 tires on the back (hopefully)
Those options are exactly why I decided to with the Superdeck I. Once you add those options in on regular dry sleeve the price is pretty close. Also, if I remember correctly in working with ERL, I was told they use a different sleeve in the Superdeck that will allow up to a 4.2" bore.

ERL has been great to work with before and after the sale. Also, if you can, try to find a commercial address to use for receiving your block back from them. I used a small Mom & Pop shipping place close to my house. Saved me a couple hundred bucks in shipping commercial over having it shipped to my house.



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