Fixed!
#1
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Fixed!
Ended up fixing the problem
Shop had installed the wrong pushrods and found a wiring issue in cyl 5 & 8.
Also, switched to a pair of l92 heads/intake that I found locally. Seems to be running good. Will Tow it to get tuned soon!
I guess I'm slightly experienced now! lol.
Thanks to all that helped and those that didn't.
Shop had installed the wrong pushrods and found a wiring issue in cyl 5 & 8.
Also, switched to a pair of l92 heads/intake that I found locally. Seems to be running good. Will Tow it to get tuned soon!
I guess I'm slightly experienced now! lol.
Thanks to all that helped and those that didn't.
Last edited by Vas_Z33; 06-30-2015 at 11:18 AM.
#4
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I'm going with KCS here. Did you pull the valve cover to make sure it's a stuck valve? Like KCS said, there will be valves open when the car is just sitting there. Sounds to me like you need a tune. Depending on the size of your cam, the car won't idle if there isn't a decent base map in there to start out with.
Cammed motors are less efficient at idle, which means if you haven't added any air to it at idle, it's flooded.
Cammed motors are less efficient at idle, which means if you haven't added any air to it at idle, it's flooded.
#5
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I'm going with KCS here. Did you pull the valve cover to make sure it's a stuck valve? Like KCS said, there will be valves open when the car is just sitting there. Sounds to me like you need a tune. Depending on the size of your cam, the car won't idle if there isn't a decent base map in there to start out with.
Cammed motors are less efficient at idle, which means if you haven't added any air to it at idle, it's flooded.
Cammed motors are less efficient at idle, which means if you haven't added any air to it at idle, it's flooded.
I had the Vats removed, and we put a good base tune on it, it definitely is not running on a stock ecu.
Appreciate everyones input, thanks a bunch!
#6
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If you pull one of your valve covers, you'll see the rocker pushing down on that valve. I doubt you have a valve that's stuck. I'm more concerned with the tune. Who setup the basemap? What tuner was used to flash the pcm? Tell me more about the current setup on the car.
Cable TB? What size cam?
I'm willing you just need a few g's of air in the idle air and maybe some timing changes. Keep me posted.
Cable TB? What size cam?
I'm willing you just need a few g's of air in the idle air and maybe some timing changes. Keep me posted.
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#9
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If you pull one of your valve covers, you'll see the rocker pushing down on that valve. I doubt you have a valve that's stuck. I'm more concerned with the tune. Who setup the basemap? What tuner was used to flash the pcm? Tell me more about the current setup on the car.
Cable TB? What size cam?
I'm willing you just need a few g's of air in the idle air and maybe some timing changes. Keep me posted.
Cable TB? What size cam?
I'm willing you just need a few g's of air in the idle air and maybe some timing changes. Keep me posted.
Well I did some more work on it today. Removed the harness completely. Going to order a new Stand Alone. .. But thats not even the problem.
1 ) I removed both Valve Cover, The Driver Side looks good, none of the rocker arms are pushing down, they seem to be leveled. However, the Passenger side, has 2 of the Rocker arms pushing down. You can see in the picture
2) I also removed all the Plugs. Just cleaned them a tad bit.. Definitely somethings wrong. #1 Has not even fired, still new. #6 and #8 also seem to be somewhat still "new" looking after a little clean. and the rest well...
3) My Cam specs are a custom Pat G. 226/234 .605/.609 113LSA cam ground on a 113 ICL (no advance) using Comp LXL lobes. This should of given me .067" P to V with a stock GM MLS gasket.
My TB is not wire, Drive by.
Any chance my stupid local shop could of installed the Cam wrong? or was this due to harness cross firing and the Valve thing happened?..
blahh
Last edited by Vas_Z33; 06-30-2015 at 11:18 AM.
#10
Well I did some more work on it today. Removed the harness completely. Going to order a new Stand Alone. .. But thats not even the problem.
1 ) I removed both Valve Cover, The Driver Side looks good, none of the rocker arms are pushing down, they seem to be leveled. However, the Passenger side, has 2 of the Rocker arms pushing down. You can see in the picture
2) I also removed all the Plugs. Just cleaned them a tad bit.. Definitely somethings wrong. #1 Has not even fired, still new. #6 and #8 also seem to be somewhat still "new" looking after a little clean. and the rest well...
3) My Cam specs are a custom Pat G. 226/234 .605/.609 113LSA cam ground on a 113 ICL (no advance) using Comp LXL lobes. This should of given me .067" P to V with a stock GM MLS gasket.
My TB is not wire, Drive by.
Any chance my stupid local pos shop could of installed the Cam wrong? or was this due to harness cross firing and the Valve thing happened?..
blahh
1 ) I removed both Valve Cover, The Driver Side looks good, none of the rocker arms are pushing down, they seem to be leveled. However, the Passenger side, has 2 of the Rocker arms pushing down. You can see in the picture
2) I also removed all the Plugs. Just cleaned them a tad bit.. Definitely somethings wrong. #1 Has not even fired, still new. #6 and #8 also seem to be somewhat still "new" looking after a little clean. and the rest well...
3) My Cam specs are a custom Pat G. 226/234 .605/.609 113LSA cam ground on a 113 ICL (no advance) using Comp LXL lobes. This should of given me .067" P to V with a stock GM MLS gasket.
My TB is not wire, Drive by.
Any chance my stupid local pos shop could of installed the Cam wrong? or was this due to harness cross firing and the Valve thing happened?..
blahh
based on your apparent level of knowledge, the best thing you can do (and least expensive) is to put it back together with the harness you have, and take it to a competent tuner.
Pay them to troubleshoot and tune. It will be the cheapest way out for you.
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I'm about to be a dick, but try not to take this the wrong way..
based on your apparent level of knowledge, the best thing you can do (and least expensive) is to put it back together with the harness you have, and take it to a competent tuner.
Pay them to troubleshoot and tune. It will be the cheapest way out for you.
based on your apparent level of knowledge, the best thing you can do (and least expensive) is to put it back together with the harness you have, and take it to a competent tuner.
Pay them to troubleshoot and tune. It will be the cheapest way out for you.
Worst case though, for sure!
#13
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I'm about to be a dick, but try not to take this the wrong way..
based on your apparent level of knowledge, the best thing you can do (and least expensive) is to put it back together with the harness you have, and take it to a competent tuner.
Pay them to troubleshoot and tune. It will be the cheapest way out for you.
based on your apparent level of knowledge, the best thing you can do (and least expensive) is to put it back together with the harness you have, and take it to a competent tuner.
Pay them to troubleshoot and tune. It will be the cheapest way out for you.
#14
TECH Junkie
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All good!! I am just trouble shooting as much as possible. I have the room to work on it and just want to narrow it down as much as I can. You are correct, but at times shops charge an arm and a leg and I don't want it to sit there for too long.
Worst case though, for sure!
Worst case though, for sure!
#15
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Why do you keep jumping to the harness? I'd recommend some things for you to do, but you don't have a clear understanding of engine operation. Do some reading on a four stroke motor. That should help you understand the valvetrain aspect. There is nothing wrong there.
I wouldn't be so quick to jump on the spark plugs not firing either. It could also be the injector for that cylinder. Take a timing light and check all of the plug wires during ignition. If the light is flashing, then the plug should be firing. If a plug isn't firing, it's likely you have a coil that is bad. If all of the plugs are firing then there is a injector/wiring issue.
I wouldn't be so quick to jump on the spark plugs not firing either. It could also be the injector for that cylinder. Take a timing light and check all of the plug wires during ignition. If the light is flashing, then the plug should be firing. If a plug isn't firing, it's likely you have a coil that is bad. If all of the plugs are firing then there is a injector/wiring issue.