Vas_Z33

iTrader: (2)

Ended up fixing the problem

Shop had installed the wrong pushrods and found a wiring issue in cyl 5 & 8.

Also, switched to a pair of l92 heads/intake that I found locally. Seems to be running good. Will Tow it to get tuned soon!


I guess I'm slightly experienced now! lol.


Thanks to all that helped and those that didn't.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

If the engine is cometely assembled, some valves will be open.

M.BOZZ

iTrader: (14)

Like stated above, some valves will be open. I would just hand rotate the motor and at least look at the intake valves, should open and close.

1sick_eg

I'm going with KCS here. Did you pull the valve cover to make sure it's a stuck valve? Like KCS said, there will be valves open when the car is just sitting there. Sounds to me like you need a tune. Depending on the size of your cam, the car won't idle if there isn't a decent base map in there to start out with.

Cammed motors are less efficient at idle, which means if you haven't added any air to it at idle, it's flooded.

Vas_Z33

iTrader: (2)

Ok interesting. I did not pull the Cam cover yet. How can I tell from removing the cover?

I had the Vats removed, and we put a good base tune on it, it definitely is not running on a stock ecu.

Appreciate everyones input, thanks a bunch!

1sick_eg

If you pull one of your valve covers, you'll see the rocker pushing down on that valve. I doubt you have a valve that's stuck. I'm more concerned with the tune. Who setup the basemap? What tuner was used to flash the pcm? Tell me more about the current setup on the car.

Cable TB? What size cam?

I'm willing you just need a few g's of air in the idle air and maybe some timing changes. Keep me posted.

1sick_eg

Note that I said valve covers, do not pull your valley cover or front timing cover. I'm just trying to make sure we're on the same page.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Well you'll see the rocker arm pushing down and compressing a valve spring, meaning that valve is open.

Vas_Z33

iTrader: (2)

Well I did some more work on it today. Removed the harness completely. Going to order a new Stand Alone. .. But thats not even the problem.

1 ) I removed both Valve Cover, The Driver Side looks good, none of the rocker arms are pushing down, they seem to be leveled. However, the Passenger side, has 2 of the Rocker arms pushing down. You can see in the picture

2) I also removed all the Plugs. Just cleaned them a tad bit.. Definitely somethings wrong. #1 Has not even fired, still new. #6 and #8 also seem to be somewhat still "new" looking after a little clean. and the rest well...


3) My Cam specs are a custom Pat G. 226/234 .605/.609 113LSA cam ground on a 113 ICL (no advance) using Comp LXL lobes. This should of given me .067" P to V with a stock GM MLS gasket.

My TB is not wire, Drive by.


Any chance my stupid local shop could of installed the Cam wrong? or was this due to harness cross firing and the Valve thing happened?..


blahh

Krom

I'm about to be a dick, but try not to take this the wrong way..

based on your apparent level of knowledge, the best thing you can do (and least expensive) is to put it back together with the harness you have, and take it to a competent tuner.
Pay them to troubleshoot and tune. It will be the cheapest way out for you.

LLave

iTrader: (3)

Wow. If I were you, I would immediately stop calling people or shops names until I understood exactly what I was looking at. You are on a good forum, maybe do some more reading.

Vas_Z33

iTrader: (2)

All good!! I am just trouble shooting as much as possible. I have the room to work on it and just want to narrow it down as much as I can. You are correct, but at times shops charge an arm and a leg and I don't want it to sit there for too long.

Worst case though, for sure!

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

I'm going to take it a step further than Krom, again not being a dick but you obviously don't have any idea what you are doing and need to STOP and take the car to someone who does so it can be fixed without causing any damage. With your skill level you should not be working on the car by yourself. I'll tell you this right now, The is a far better chance that you're going to make it worse than better and you could very well ruin the engine.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

You can't trouble shoot something unless you know how it works and it's very apparent that you don't at this time. Save yourself some money by taking it to someone and pay them to fix what's wrong before you try to fix it and end up costing yourself three times what you're trying to save!

1sick_eg

Why do you keep jumping to the harness? I'd recommend some things for you to do, but you don't have a clear understanding of engine operation. Do some reading on a four stroke motor. That should help you understand the valvetrain aspect. There is nothing wrong there.

I wouldn't be so quick to jump on the spark plugs not firing either. It could also be the injector for that cylinder. Take a timing light and check all of the plug wires during ignition. If the light is flashing, then the plug should be firing. If a plug isn't firing, it's likely you have a coil that is bad. If all of the plugs are firing then there is a injector/wiring issue.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

x3827342423432
op is as dumb as a fencepost. put the tools away and take it to someone who knows what they're doing.

"valve stuck open"

pure gold.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

The only way a valve would be "stuck open" is if your pushrod was way too long. Then the valve would hang open.

Also, stop messing with your car. You have no idea what you are doing. You can't troubleshoot something you don't understand.

Ari G

iTrader: (25)

Pushods could not be seated in the lifter or rocker cups hanging those cyllenders open causing a missfire ect..

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

check cranking compression in all cylinders
take that injector and coil and put them in another cylinder to see if the dead lung moves.