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Engine break-in vs. ring seal?

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Old 06-24-2015, 08:33 PM
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Default Engine break-in vs. ring seal?

Hi All,

I'm somewhat far away from finishing my 418" L92 stroker and am pondering on the break-in procedure. This isn't a typical mill, LS7 crank with Ti rods and custom pistons at 11.6:1 CR, not to mention a Vic, JR with 4150 TB and Holley HP ECM. The engine will be in a stick car with no easy way to load the rings. Can I get by with just a start-up and short run before needing to be concerned with ring seal? Is there a time window before the rings glaze over and sealing becomes an issue?
Old 06-24-2015, 08:57 PM
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You can start it up but you have a fairly short window before the crosshatching of the cylinders get worn and they lose the ability to break the rings in right. Cylinder pressure pushes the rings out so you need to do some fairly hard pulls. Don't baby it right away.
Old 06-24-2015, 09:00 PM
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If you haven't assembled the short block, try using the Total Seal quick seat powder. After cleaning the cylinders, you smear the powder in the bores which turns a greenish tint. The rings will begin seating during the assembly process. You can also have the car on jack stands and lightly accelerate against the brakes to lug the engine a bit and help them seat with heat and pressure.
Old 06-25-2015, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by svede1212
You can start it up but you have a fairly short window before the crosshatching of the cylinders get worn and they lose the ability to break the rings in right. Cylinder pressure pushes the rings out so you need to do some fairly hard pulls. Don't baby it right away.
Was taught this years ago, by a motorcycle mechanic. He'd say "If you break it in fast, it will always be fast. If you break it in slow, it will always be slow."
Old 06-25-2015, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by A.R. Shale Targa
If you haven't assembled the short block, try using the Total Seal quick seat powder. After cleaning the cylinders, you smear the powder in the bores which turns a greenish tint. The rings will begin seating during the assembly process. You can also have the car on jack stands and lightly accelerate against the brakes to lug the engine a bit and help them seat with heat and pressure.
I've seen this powder before, may be just the ticket! With all the new non-stock stuff, I'd love to be able to start & run it in before finishing the car...

Thanks!
Old 06-25-2015, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
I've seen this powder before, may be just the ticket! With all the new non-stock stuff, I'd love to be able to start & run it in before finishing the car...

Thanks!
Just to clarify....no oil or dexron on the pistons/rings
Only the dry powder
Old 06-26-2015, 03:36 AM
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The rings will begin seating during the assembly process.
Old 06-26-2015, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by A.R. Shale Targa
Just to clarify....no oil or dexron on the pistons/rings
Only the dry powder
I'll be doing my first LS assembly here in a month or so but just to clarify. Apply the powder to the sideskirts and cylinder walls and install dry? Pardon the n00bness of the question
Old 06-26-2015, 09:14 PM
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Put this on my wishlist at Jeg's, they have a PDF instruction sheet for it...
Old 06-26-2015, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by LSmitty2
I'll be doing my first LS assembly here in a month or so but just to clarify. Apply the powder to the sideskirts and cylinder walls and install dry? Pardon the n00bness of the question
clean cylinders several times with dexron doused paper towels
wipe several times with dry paper towels
wipe with soft cloth doused in brake clean
dip finger tip into Quick Seat silver/gray powder
smear powder all around upper 3.5 inches of all cylinders
should turn a greenish tint if cleaned properly
install pistons/rings dry
Watch cross hatch begin to change/lose it's sharpness as pistons move up and down during assembly
Definitely worth the 16 bucks since you don't want an oil burner and would love to have ALL the piston kicking NASTY stay north of the rings !!!



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