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LSX block for a 440 build.

Old 07-13-2015, 10:36 AM
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Default LSX block for a 440 build.

So the LXS finished block. If I were to get one of these, does it have to go the machine shop for another grand worth of work or can I put a 4.185 rotating assembly in it, provided everything spec'd out properly?

It's $2,795 shipped from Jegs. Anywhere has it for better? Considering it for a 440 build. 4.185 bore on a 4.000 stroke nitrous motor. LS7 heads. Looking for all out 7,000 - 7,300 peak HP RPM in a jet boat. That's why short stroke big bore.

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Old 07-13-2015, 10:54 AM
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I don't think you're too far off, on the older LSX blocks the cam bearings were way toooo tight, when this newer version came out they were better. Basically put ARP main studs in it, align hone the mains, align hone cam bore and put a finish hone in the cylinders with deck plate.

If you want to roll the dice, sounds like this is a machined block that would normally be assembled into a crate motor but sold bare, its decked and bored... honed too? Run the main bolts, leave the main/cam as is. 4.185 sounds like it may have a finish hone in the cylinders (for whatever type of rings they use in LSX.... moly?)

Pound in the cam bearings and assemble it.

Hellfire type rings are more universal on cylinder finish than moly or steel.
Old 07-13-2015, 05:26 PM
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Might look into a 4.155" bore. More head gasket material between cylinders.
Old 07-13-2015, 06:45 PM
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Have you looked into sleeved aluminum blocks from R.E.D. or ERL? They're just as strong and weigh a lot less. In my opinion, the only thing the LSX has over sleeved aluminum block is priority main oiling, and even that would be negligible in an application like yours I would think.

You can get a "junk yard" aluminum block and have it sleeved for about 2k or so.

RED quoted me just under 2k to sleeve my LS7 block.
Old 07-13-2015, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SHovV
Have you looked into sleeved aluminum blocks from R.E.D. or ERL? They're just as strong and weigh a lot less. In my opinion, the only thing the LSX has over sleeved aluminum block is priority main oiling, and even that would be negligible in an application like yours I would think.

You can get a "junk yard" aluminum block and have it sleeved for about 2k or so.

RED quoted me just under 2k to sleeve my LS7 block.
Is the $2k price for a six bolt option?
Old 07-15-2015, 09:25 PM
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http://www.erlperformance.com/produc...locks-domestic

have a look, a little more than $2000.00

R.E.D. website, I couldn't find any prices but $2000.00 is what he quoted me to
but he doesn't do the final hone to fit the pistons, thats why I went with ERL, save some
on somebody else to finish hone to fit pistons.
Old 07-15-2015, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by slogo
http://www.erlperformance.com/produc...locks-domestic

have a look, a little more than $2000.00

R.E.D. website, I couldn't find any prices but $2000.00 is what he quoted me to
but he doesn't do the final hone to fit the pistons, thats why I went with ERL, save some
on somebody else to finish hone to fit pistons.

$3650 for the 6 bolt option. LSX is over $1000 cheaper. I know it's about 150# heavier, but I personally couldn't make myself spend the extra money on it.
Old 07-20-2015, 04:14 AM
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The way to go is the aftermarket blocks with priority main oiling and Lifter bore strength/fresh vs out of spec used aluminum blocks
Old 07-20-2015, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by blk00ss
$3650 for the 6 bolt option. LSX is over $1000 cheaper. I know it's about 150# heavier, but I personally couldn't make myself spend the extra money on it.
$3650 doesn't include a core block, which Gen4 style 5.3 go for $500.00 ; appears to be best way to go in resleeved aluminum blocks.

Not knocking it, I've considered a wet sleeve block myself, but understand the costs involved.
Old 07-20-2015, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by blk00ss
$3650 for the 6 bolt option. LSX is over $1000 cheaper. I know it's about 150# heavier, but I personally couldn't make myself spend the extra money on it.
The only problem I have with the NSX blocks is they weigh a ton, no, make that 2 ton!

But seriously, Steve at RED supplied me with a brand new 5.3 GEN4 truck block and fitted MID wet liners for $3,200, so I think if you sent him a second hand 5.3 truck block he would sleeve it out to 4.185" for around $2K. Why don't you just call him up and talk to him yourself, I find him a pleasure to do business with.
Old 07-20-2015, 06:23 PM
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Kiwikid,
Whats the difference dry vs wet liner meaning is it really that much better? It that for high end drag racing or more for road course stuff?
Old 07-20-2015, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367
Kiwikid,
Whats the difference dry vs wet liner meaning is it really that much better? It that for high end drag racing or more for road course stuff?
Hi Jimbo either really, but to get an Aluminium LS block out to 4.185-4.200" you would have to go with the MID sleeve, as I understand it, Steve is of course the right guy to speak to.
Old 07-20-2015, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367
Kiwikid,
Whats the difference dry vs wet liner meaning is it really that much better? It that for high end drag racing or more for road course stuff?
Traditional LS1,2,3,7 block has a cast in iron sleeves, "Dry". The structure of the cylinder block is entirely made from cast aluminum.

Wet sleeve changes this by creating a its own structure within the cylinder block. To install them into an LS2 or 3 block the sleeves and aluminum material will all be bored out and liner will be installed into the main saddle of the cylinder block. This liner/sleeve will be surrounded by coolant in most scenarios. Diesel blocks are typically like this and, top fuel etc. The liner or sleeve is fully replaceable and is generally thicker iron because it doesn't have the cast in structure of the factory aluminum block. It's wet because of the coolant surrounding the iron cylinder sleeve.

Last edited by Fraser588; 07-22-2015 at 01:50 PM.
Old 07-29-2015, 11:40 AM
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KiwiKid,
Thanks

Fraser588,
thanks for clearing that up for me !


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