Boosting a junkyard 5.3 typical right?
#1
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Boosting a junkyard 5.3 typical right?
finally getting my build on the way, need some info seeing how this is my first Ls based build, my first turbo application.
need help with camshaft choice, i have everything else
i have a cam i was gona do a nitrous application but went a different route
need help with camshaft choice, i have everything else
i have a cam i was gona do a nitrous application but went a different route
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#4
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Welcome to the forum. And the more details you provide, the more helpful we can be.
But nobody here will be able to help you with your cam selection better than the people who do it for a living.
Call kip at cam motion, Martin at tick performance, or pat g at guerra group custom cams.
Any of those three will set you up right.
But nobody here will be able to help you with your cam selection better than the people who do it for a living.
Call kip at cam motion, Martin at tick performance, or pat g at guerra group custom cams.
Any of those three will set you up right.
#7
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1985 Monte Carlo, TH400 gears 3.23 76mm turbo stock manifolds, stock internals with the $100 insurance (rod bolts) head studs, stock intake, stock throttle body, 42lb injectors. very very basic of builds its going to be a street driven car with some track passes here and there. Attachment 510974
I personally would not do the rod bolts unless you are going to resize your connecting rods and get new rod bearings. Typically rod bolts become a consideration when the operating RPMs increase to or above 7000 RPM. With a mild turbo setup, I don't think you will have a need to get too crazy with the RPMs.
As for the camshaft, I would be conservative in my choice for a mild turbo setup. A turbo setup can perform very well with a small cam, but quickly become a lazy pig with too much camshaft.
Last edited by speedtigger; 09-01-2015 at 02:57 PM.
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#11
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GenIII rods are different than GenIV rods. Generally considered to be weaker than the newer ones. But your investment in upgraded bolts is good insurance/peace of mind... albeit unnecessary at this stage.
I forgot to mention good valve springs, pushrods, and afm/dod delete kit with new lifters, as well.
You can keep your vvt system, if you so choose. Even custom turbo grind cams can be made on vvt cores, if that is something you want to retain.
I forgot to mention good valve springs, pushrods, and afm/dod delete kit with new lifters, as well.
You can keep your vvt system, if you so choose. Even custom turbo grind cams can be made on vvt cores, if that is something you want to retain.
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His was 98 ls1 blew the rod apart, and scored the crank and everything else was a mess. mine is an 05 5.3 bought it for 100 bucks, short black assembled, everything I had to piece together still needing a swap harness an ecu to be get flashed pushrods rockers springs camshaft and well now bigger injectors and little odds and ends that will nickel and dime me
#14
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Oh gen III stile stronger as the 98 was the redheaded stepchild of the ls1 family. Weak rods and rod bolts on the 98 plagued it and was the reason most didnt recommend reving it past 6000
#17
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Compared to boosting any other engine, the LSx is as easy as it gets.
Valve springs, pac1218 or comp918 are popular.
80# injectors and supporting pump and regulator.
Afm/dod delete kit with ls7 lifters.
Flipped stock manifolds.
It literally doesn't get any easier than that.
Valve springs, pac1218 or comp918 are popular.
80# injectors and supporting pump and regulator.
Afm/dod delete kit with ls7 lifters.
Flipped stock manifolds.
It literally doesn't get any easier than that.
#19
TECH Addict
The genIV truck motors have displacement-on-demand/active-fuel-management. It uses special lifters on four cylinders that collapse when activated... disabling the intake valves on half your engine under light load cruising.
In theory it's a finicky hippie/eco/green system designed to increase fuel economy.
In practice it's a finicky and faulty system that needs to be removed if you want to play with boost.
There are complete kits that include everything you need to remove it physically. Then you just turn it off in the tune/ecm.
In theory it's a finicky hippie/eco/green system designed to increase fuel economy.
In practice it's a finicky and faulty system that needs to be removed if you want to play with boost.
There are complete kits that include everything you need to remove it physically. Then you just turn it off in the tune/ecm.
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thank you for the help again if its no trouble to you there any link i can look at buying the DOD or AFM deletes? like purchase an already done one? ls7 lifters were on my list of things to get