New build stroked/sleeved 427 ls3/7 combo DYNO NUMBERS ARE IN!!! CHECK LAST PAGE
09-18-2015, 06:56 AM
#22
I realize those are the valve sizes straight from Brodix, I was just commenting on the sizes because I have a set of heads that are a little tight between the valves as well. I was a little worried, but you have about as much room between the valves and you're planning on hitting it with nitrous. Makes me feel better haha.
09-18-2015, 10:22 AM
#23
TECH Addict
I don't even know about what sort of cam this thing is going to need, but I bet it's huge, like 26x/28x @ .050"... Cubes, compression, and laughing gas all require some cam.
09-18-2015, 10:59 PM
#25
On The Tree
Thread Starter
09-18-2015, 11:00 PM
#26
On The Tree
Thread Starter
The build is looking good!
I realize those are the valve sizes straight from Brodix, I was just commenting on the sizes because I have a set of heads that are a little tight between the valves as well. I was a little worried, but you have about as much room between the valves and you're planning on hitting it with nitrous. Makes me feel better haha.
I realize those are the valve sizes straight from Brodix, I was just commenting on the sizes because I have a set of heads that are a little tight between the valves as well. I was a little worried, but you have about as much room between the valves and you're planning on hitting it with nitrous. Makes me feel better haha.
yea im maxing this thing out so not much room for forgiveness lol
09-20-2015, 01:35 AM
#27
Its not so much the narrow gap between the cylinder bore's that creates issues its the gap between the sleeves that's the leak path.
Looking at the picture of Stroked's engine block, in my opinion if he does not clean and fill these gaps with something like Locktite's 2 pot epoxy and then scrape them level with the top of the cylinders I can almost guarantee he will have water leak or worse, no matter if he stays with a 4.125" bore or were to go larger in the future. Take it from me I have been there and had to spend a lot of time and money learning how to fix the issue.
I posted a separate thread on this issue along with photo's etc showing our elaborate testing procedures in order to identify the source of the head gasket leaks. From Memory I think it was titled "Help water in my oil".
Cheers,
Mark.
09-20-2015, 03:18 AM
#28
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Its not so much the narrow gap between the cylinder bore's that creates issues its the gap between the sleeves that's the leak path.
Looking at the picture of Stroked's engine block, in my opinion if he does not clean and fill these gaps with something like Locktite's 2 pot epoxy and then scrape them level with the top of the cylinders I can almost guarantee he will have water leak or worse, no matter if he stays with a 4.125" bore or were to go larger in the future. Take it from me I have been there and had to spend a lot of time and money learning how to fix the issue.
I posted a separate thread on this issue along with photo's etc showing our elaborate testing procedures in order to identify the source of the head gasket leaks. From Memory I think it was titled "Help water in my oil".
Cheers,
Mark.
Looking at the picture of Stroked's engine block, in my opinion if he does not clean and fill these gaps with something like Locktite's 2 pot epoxy and then scrape them level with the top of the cylinders I can almost guarantee he will have water leak or worse, no matter if he stays with a 4.125" bore or were to go larger in the future. Take it from me I have been there and had to spend a lot of time and money learning how to fix the issue.
I posted a separate thread on this issue along with photo's etc showing our elaborate testing procedures in order to identify the source of the head gasket leaks. From Memory I think it was titled "Help water in my oil".
Cheers,
Mark.
i respect your advice however from everything i have researched including calling rhs, brodix, la sleeve company and darton sleeve company the slits are needed inbetween the cylinders(especially with it being an aluminum block) because if and when the block flexes if there is no gap the walls will press against each other and can cause them to crack..... we have two rhs blocks at the shop both came with the gaps from rhs.
09-20-2015, 09:33 AM
#29
i respect your advice however from everything i have researched including calling rhs, brodix, la sleeve company and darton sleeve company the slits are needed inbetween the cylinders(especially with it being an aluminum block) because if and when the block flexes if there is no gap the walls will press against each other and can cause them to crack..... we have two rhs blocks at the shop both came with the gaps from rhs.
09-20-2015, 04:39 PM
#30
I attached a photo of one of my sleeved blocks so you can see how the sleeves should be installed. No one at Darton told you there has to be a gap between the sleeves. They have customers call me for tech data.
Darton sleeves are made across the flats so the max. gap will be .004" if the adjacent sleeves are at minimum spec. Typical gap distance is one to two thou.
Anyone telling you that a gap like that is OK doesn't know what they are talking about. Listen to what Mark is telling you about filling the gaps.
Steve
Darton sleeves are made across the flats so the max. gap will be .004" if the adjacent sleeves are at minimum spec. Typical gap distance is one to two thou.
Anyone telling you that a gap like that is OK doesn't know what they are talking about. Listen to what Mark is telling you about filling the gaps.
Steve
i respect your advice however from everything i have researched including calling rhs, brodix, la sleeve company and darton sleeve company the slits are needed inbetween the cylinders(especially with it being an aluminum block) because if and when the block flexes if there is no gap the walls will press against each other and can cause them to crack..... we have two rhs blocks at the shop both came with the gaps from rhs.
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
09-21-2015, 01:40 AM
#31
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I attached a photo of one of my sleeved blocks so you can see how the sleeves should be installed. No one at Darton told you there has to be a gap between the sleeves. They have customers call me for tech data.
Darton sleeves are made across the flats so the max. gap will be .004" if the adjacent sleeves are at minimum spec. Typical gap distance is one to two thou.
Anyone telling you that a gap like that is OK doesn't know what they are talking about. Listen to what Mark is telling you about filling the gaps.
Steve
Darton sleeves are made across the flats so the max. gap will be .004" if the adjacent sleeves are at minimum spec. Typical gap distance is one to two thou.
Anyone telling you that a gap like that is OK doesn't know what they are talking about. Listen to what Mark is telling you about filling the gaps.
Steve
09-21-2015, 01:42 AM
#32
On The Tree
Thread Starter
hey Know It All are you agreeing with me that your friends had gaps between the cylinders and they didnt need epoxy? im asking because steve is saying his blocks dont come with gaps so now im confused....
09-21-2015, 02:06 AM
#33
On The Tree
Thread Starter
KIWIKID, i read your article and while i see you did fill your gaps with epoxy that doesnt seem like that was your problem if i read it correct.. you had issues with the cometic gasket around the studs? so it seems you just filled the gaps as a precaution... please correct me if im wrong... were your gaps bigger then the ones in my block?
09-21-2015, 10:24 AM
#34
I didn't look at their blocks that close so I can't comment about gaps, but I do know that they didn't need to fill in any gaps with epoxy. I'm only saying Steve knows what he's talking about and whatever he's doing works.
09-21-2015, 11:30 AM
#35
Darton sleeves I attached a photo of a Darton sleeve that has been intentionally ovaled in a press for display to show how ductile and strong the material is. Darton ductile iron will bend quite a bit before it cracks.
The sleeves you have in that block do not appear to be Darton. If the sleeves were installed at 4.400" bore center line, the install would like like the photo I attached earlier, no noticeable gaps between the sleeves.
The newer RHS blocks do not have gaps between the sleeves by the way. I have one here I am repairing.
Steve
The sleeves you have in that block do not appear to be Darton. If the sleeves were installed at 4.400" bore center line, the install would like like the photo I attached earlier, no noticeable gaps between the sleeves.
The newer RHS blocks do not have gaps between the sleeves by the way. I have one here I am repairing.
Steve
lol come on now, please don't tell me who told me what... i respect every ones opinion and i have heard both sides of the spectrum including the reasons why and why there shouldnt be gaps.. all of the motors that the shop has done has gaps between the cylinder walls and not one has had a problem.. granted some sleeves have been from "la sleeve company"(im not sure how much of a difference sleeve brand matters) but from everything i have heard in regards to block flex i believe the gaps are indeed needed so that the cylinders dont press into each other and crack... im still open to having the discussion though... i think that each block is different depending on what your using.... just my 02....
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
09-21-2015, 12:22 PM
#36
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I attached a photo of a Darton sleeve that has been intentionally ovaled in a press for display to show how ductile and strong the material is. Darton ductile iron will bend quite a bit before it cracks.
The sleeves you have in that block do not appear to be Darton. If the sleeves were installed at 4.400" bore center line, the install would like like the photo I attached earlier, no noticeable gaps between the sleeves.
The newer RHS blocks do not have gaps between the sleeves by the way. I have one here I am repairing.
Steve
The sleeves you have in that block do not appear to be Darton. If the sleeves were installed at 4.400" bore center line, the install would like like the photo I attached earlier, no noticeable gaps between the sleeves.
The newer RHS blocks do not have gaps between the sleeves by the way. I have one here I am repairing.
Steve
can we agree that there is block flex and if there is no gap the sleeves can crack? i just called la sleeve company(who have been around for ages) again for conformation and spent a good 30 mins on the phone and they said that there absolutely needs to be a gap to offset gap flex..... rhs had the gaps in their blocks for the same reason im assuming, is the block you have with no gap an iron block? could that be a factor on why it has no gaps because its a stronger block that doesnt flex?
09-21-2015, 03:13 PM
#39
I attached a photo of one of my sleeved blocks so you can see how the sleeves should be installed. No one at Darton told you there has to be a gap between the sleeves. They have customers call me for tech data.
Darton sleeves are made across the flats so the max. gap will be .004" if the adjacent sleeves are at minimum spec. Typical gap distance is one to two thou.
Anyone telling you that a gap like that is OK doesn't know what they are talking about. Listen to what Mark is telling you about filling the gaps.
Steve
Darton sleeves are made across the flats so the max. gap will be .004" if the adjacent sleeves are at minimum spec. Typical gap distance is one to two thou.
Anyone telling you that a gap like that is OK doesn't know what they are talking about. Listen to what Mark is telling you about filling the gaps.
Steve
