Max stroke for L92
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Max stroke for L92 Hi everyone
I have a L92 2011 engine, and I was wondering whats the maximum stroke I can have?
Is a 441ci setup possible and whats the dimensions
also what are the information for 427ci setup?
Thanks
I have a L92 2011 engine, and I was wondering whats the maximum stroke I can have?
Is a 441ci setup possible and whats the dimensions
also what are the information for 427ci setup?
Thanks
You can do up to 4.125" and 4.080" bore for a 431 but that's REALLY pushing the limits of that combination greatly affecting strength and longevity.
People more often do a 4.125" and 4.070" combo for the 427, but again it's not terribly reliable due to the long stroke on the stock liners.
Stick with a 4" stroke and 4.070" bore for a 416 if you actually want some sort of reliability and longevity of that motor.
People more often do a 4.125" and 4.070" combo for the 427, but again it's not terribly reliable due to the long stroke on the stock liners.
Stick with a 4" stroke and 4.070" bore for a 416 if you actually want some sort of reliability and longevity of that motor.
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You can do up to 4.125" and 4.080" bore for a 431 but that's REALLY pushing the limits of that combination greatly affecting strength and longevity.
People more often do a 4.125" and 4.070" combo for the 427, but again it's not terribly reliable due to the long stroke on the stock liners.
Stick with a 4" stroke and 4.070" bore for a 416 if you actually want some sort of reliability and longevity of that motor.
People more often do a 4.125" and 4.070" combo for the 427, but again it's not terribly reliable due to the long stroke on the stock liners.
Stick with a 4" stroke and 4.070" bore for a 416 if you actually want some sort of reliability and longevity of that motor.
You can go 4.125" with proper clerancing in the block. The long stroke will make for a motor that should stay low on RPM and will wear out at a higher rate of speed than its shorter stroke counter parts. We keep 3.622, 4.000 and 4.125" stroker kits in stock if you are in need of one.
Thank you,
Kyle
972-853-2450
Thompson Motorsports
Thank you,
Kyle
972-853-2450
Thompson Motorsports
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However if you only want 500 plus at the tire that's cake easily had with a 400 plus cube motor with decent heads such as AFR,TFS,LS3 etc.......
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and I'm either going to use LS3 heads or LS7 heads havent decided yet
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That will give you a 454 cube motor...
call Steve at Racing Engine Development. He is one sharp guy.
Personally I would recommend going 4.155 bore with a 4.000 crank. Leave meat on the walls for clean up etc... with a stroke over 4.000 you start to run into oil control problems which is the last thing you want in a street car.
500 at the tire is reachable without even going to a larger bottom end than a 6.2.
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Do you want it simple or do you want to spend the extra cash. As is you could just buy a stroker crank set and build a very common 416. Or if you got the money get the stroker you are referring to and have ERL or Steve @ RED do your short block. There are 2 ways at going with this 1 is cheaper but CAN NOT be bored as large as the the other but will help you with the 4.125 crank you are looking at.
1st: The WET sleeve it is the best way to go as the the liner & sleeve are removed and a Darton or ERL's own sleeve will be the replacement. Bore sizes range from 4.100 to 4.200. Cost around $1800 to $2000+ may be wrong about prices but will be in the ball park.
2nd: The DRY sleeve it is pretty easy they remove the standard sleeve and replace it with a *longer and *stronger sleeve. Bore sizes range from 4.100 to around 4.185 max. Around 1200+ bucks.
Now that it's football season as the old commercial use to say: YOU MAKE THE CALL.
Mike454SS & Camster are Correct go with a Low lash Solid roller and get the the heads ported = to well over 500 rwhp or 600 fwhp with a stock cubed 6.2* Refer to 1Sick engine. A Lot cheaper than building a stroker if you just want 500 @ the wheels.
1st: The WET sleeve it is the best way to go as the the liner & sleeve are removed and a Darton or ERL's own sleeve will be the replacement. Bore sizes range from 4.100 to 4.200. Cost around $1800 to $2000+ may be wrong about prices but will be in the ball park.
2nd: The DRY sleeve it is pretty easy they remove the standard sleeve and replace it with a *longer and *stronger sleeve. Bore sizes range from 4.100 to around 4.185 max. Around 1200+ bucks.
Now that it's football season as the old commercial use to say: YOU MAKE THE CALL.
Mike454SS & Camster are Correct go with a Low lash Solid roller and get the the heads ported = to well over 500 rwhp or 600 fwhp with a stock cubed 6.2* Refer to 1Sick engine. A Lot cheaper than building a stroker if you just want 500 @ the wheels.
Last edited by *LSX RACING*; Sep 11, 2015 at 09:50 AM.
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I stated refer to 1sick engine. Glad to see you got over 500 but with the amount he is willing to spend may as go with a solid you do know they make more hp. Because the resleeve/stroker kit/heads or work done to the heads will be well over 8 grand. A hydraulic cam will work never said it would not, I just like a solid roller that is my preference.
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The darton sleeves is able to take 4.125 stroke crank and the bore can go up 4.185.
That will give you a 454 cube motor...
call Steve at Racing Engine Development. He is one sharp guy.
Personally I would recommend going 4.155 bore with a 4.000 crank. Leave meat on the walls for clean up etc... with a stroke over 4.000 you start to run into oil control problems which is the last thing you want in a street car.
That will give you a 454 cube motor...
call Steve at Racing Engine Development. He is one sharp guy.
Personally I would recommend going 4.155 bore with a 4.000 crank. Leave meat on the walls for clean up etc... with a stroke over 4.000 you start to run into oil control problems which is the last thing you want in a street car.
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I'm very aware of the 468 cube motor Steve did for Hot Rod magazine awhile back in a head comparison deal. That motor received a 4.250 stroker crank.