Comp Cams' DTL Lobes
Comp Cams' DTL Lobes I'm considering these lobes for my build. Wanting to turn some RPM (7500ish), TFS heads, LS3 valves, Holley Hi Ram, etc...
Anyone have any experience with these?
Anyone have any experience with these?
Wow! Those are LS lobes?!?!?!?
Why not just go LLSR?
Anyway.....if those are LS lobes, I'd get those TFS heads ported (Frankenstein?) by someone who will get them to build flow pass .750" lift. Otherwise, that high lift will be more of an impediment than a asset.
KW
Why not just go LLSR?
Anyway.....if those are LS lobes, I'd get those TFS heads ported (Frankenstein?) by someone who will get them to build flow pass .750" lift. Otherwise, that high lift will be more of an impediment than a asset.
KW
I'll take care of the porting on these heads. If I were to have someone port them for me, I would prefer to use some of the local talent like Greg Good or Rick McConathy.
I don't buy the idea that you can't use a lobe with more lift than your heads can flow to. To me, there doesn't seem to be much going on at peak lift in an engine. The highest pressure differentials are at low-mid lift points. Area under the curve is more important. A 230 lobe with .700" lift will have more area under the curve than a similar 230 lobe with .600" lift, generally speaking. I think that will make more power as long as the valvetrain is happy.
I'm leaning more towards the HUC lobes just for the sake of simplicity. I don't even know if I would have the retainer to seal clearance for a .750" lift cam without going to a longer valve or +.050" retainers/locks.
I know what you mean about making sure everything fits without interference...I've used the +.050" stuff a bunch on roundy round builds
That's also a LOT of lift for a hydraulic lifter to deal with.....the spring pressure needed to keep the link bar lifter (heavier) as well as the thick *** pushrod in check with a lobe shape that basically KICKS....might as well be in the solid roller territory......
with that being your aluminum engine, a 240/248 LLSR set to zero lash would be quiet as all hell AND rev cleanly to your 7500 target rpm
That's also a LOT of lift for a hydraulic lifter to deal with.....the spring pressure needed to keep the link bar lifter (heavier) as well as the thick *** pushrod in check with a lobe shape that basically KICKS....might as well be in the solid roller territory......
with that being your aluminum engine, a 240/248 LLSR set to zero lash would be quiet as all hell AND rev cleanly to your 7500 target rpm
I know what you mean about making sure everything fits without interference...I've used the +.050" stuff a bunch on roundy round builds
That's also a LOT of lift for a hydraulic lifter to deal with.....the spring pressure needed to keep the link bar lifter (heavier) as well as the thick *** pushrod in check with a lobe shape that basically KICKS....might as well be in the solid roller territory......
with that being your aluminum engine, a 240/248 LLSR set to zero lash would be quiet as all hell AND rev cleanly to your 7500 target rpm
That's also a LOT of lift for a hydraulic lifter to deal with.....the spring pressure needed to keep the link bar lifter (heavier) as well as the thick *** pushrod in check with a lobe shape that basically KICKS....might as well be in the solid roller territory......
with that being your aluminum engine, a 240/248 LLSR set to zero lash would be quiet as all hell AND rev cleanly to your 7500 target rpm
I'll probably stick to the HUC lobes and a 1.8 rocker.
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I am not sure I understand your thinking here. You want to stay hydraulic to avoid the cost of roller rockers, but you are choosing a lobe with .750" lift which is not compatable with a stock rocker arm.
Just call Kip and have him make you a lobe that will be optimal for your RPM range while maxing out whatever lift you think you can pull off with a stock rocker? Why mess with catalog lobes? He does it for free which still amazes me.
Just call Kip and have him make you a lobe that will be optimal for your RPM range while maxing out whatever lift you think you can pull off with a stock rocker? Why mess with catalog lobes? He does it for free which still amazes me.
I am not sure I understand your thinking here. You want to stay hydraulic to avoid the cost of roller rockers, but you are choosing a lobe with .750" lift which is not compatable with a stock rocker arm.
Just call Kip and have him make you a lobe that will be optimal for your RPM range while maxing out whatever lift you think you can pull off with a stock rocker? Why mess with catalog lobes? He does it for free which still amazes me.
Just call Kip and have him make you a lobe that will be optimal for your RPM range while maxing out whatever lift you think you can pull off with a stock rocker? Why mess with catalog lobes? He does it for free which still amazes me.
I'll be using aftermarket rockers one way or another, so I would like to take advantage of that and run a lot of lift that a stock rocker normally couldn't/shouldn't. The roller rocker options for hydraulic rollers are still economical versus the shaft rockers that most people run for the solid stuff.
I supposed I could use those rockers in the stud mount configuration if I were to convert to solid roller. At that point, I might as well ditch the EFI and coils and put a carb and distributor on there too lol.
With those rockers, a PAC spring kit, 3/8" pushrods, Caddy lifters, and the cam, I'm looking at just under $1600 including shipping.
Personally, I've never used them. I've heard recently about someone who swapped out another highly respected brand of lifter for them and picked up some considerable power after peak. Apparently, there's a bit of a "trick" to get them to work.
For ~$250, I thought I'd give them a try.
For ~$250, I thought I'd give them a try.
http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tec...-stock-racing/
This pic is interesting to say the least...
