Hard crank.. reluctor wheel issues?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2009
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Hard crank.. reluctor wheel issues? What's up guys..
I've got a 5th gen Camaro that I'm having some weird issues with.
Car is a 2013 SS, on stock PCM, and ProEFI piggy-backed in to control fuel/spark. Throttle control is still being handled by the factory PCM.
The issue occurs if I remove the jumper and run it on factory PCM completely, and also if I run it on ProEFI.
Car has a Callies crank with their billet reluctor ring. It hasn't been welded, and was installed just as it came from Callies. Car made 1200whp and for about 20 dyno pulls was perfectly fine. Ran out of turbo, so we upgraded a few things there. Out of nowhere, the car starts cranking funny. This is what it's doing:
It ran perfectly fine before this. Stopped to get fuel, went to crank it back up, and this is what was going on.
I've replaced the entire engine harness, cam and crank sensors, fuse box under the hood, starter, and battery. No dice.. We had to set the ignition advance at -5 degrees to get it to start back up. It was previously at +12 degrees. I've checked valve train, cam timing, and if I could get it to idle, I'd try to check the timing against the balancer. But, I have no way to keep it running. It's not hydro-locking and it passes a leakdown test just fine. If I unplug the injectors, it doesn't do this.. it'll crank just fine but of course no start.
After talking to a few people, I'm starting to think that the reluctor is damaged, or has moved/slipped on the crankshaft. Has anyone had this issue, or something similar? I've never had a LS powered vehicle do anything like this. Kinda at a loss here.
I've got a 5th gen Camaro that I'm having some weird issues with.
Car is a 2013 SS, on stock PCM, and ProEFI piggy-backed in to control fuel/spark. Throttle control is still being handled by the factory PCM.
The issue occurs if I remove the jumper and run it on factory PCM completely, and also if I run it on ProEFI.
Car has a Callies crank with their billet reluctor ring. It hasn't been welded, and was installed just as it came from Callies. Car made 1200whp and for about 20 dyno pulls was perfectly fine. Ran out of turbo, so we upgraded a few things there. Out of nowhere, the car starts cranking funny. This is what it's doing:
It ran perfectly fine before this. Stopped to get fuel, went to crank it back up, and this is what was going on.
I've replaced the entire engine harness, cam and crank sensors, fuse box under the hood, starter, and battery. No dice.. We had to set the ignition advance at -5 degrees to get it to start back up. It was previously at +12 degrees. I've checked valve train, cam timing, and if I could get it to idle, I'd try to check the timing against the balancer. But, I have no way to keep it running. It's not hydro-locking and it passes a leakdown test just fine. If I unplug the injectors, it doesn't do this.. it'll crank just fine but of course no start.
After talking to a few people, I'm starting to think that the reluctor is damaged, or has moved/slipped on the crankshaft. Has anyone had this issue, or something similar? I've never had a LS powered vehicle do anything like this. Kinda at a loss here.
Not sure how it could get damaged? One way to confirm if the tone ring is in proper phase might be to remove the starter, remove Ckp, rotate the crankshaft slowly and look for the opening in the 58 teeth and verify where it it is in relation to what ever cylinder it needs to be in at or near TDC. This might be a bit labor intensive but could eliminate doubt and you stop chasing your tail. It does sound like your motor is cranking against too much timing. Relearn procedure maybe?
Last edited by 64post; Nov 28, 2015 at 04:33 PM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Not sure how it could get damaged? One way to confirm if the tone ring is in proper phase might be to remove the starter, remove Ckp, rotate the crankshaft slowly and look for the opening in the 58 teeth and verify where it it is in relation to what ever cylinder it needs to be in at or near TDC. This might be a bit labor intensive but could eliminate doubt and you stop chasing your tail. It does sound like your motor is cranking against too much timing. Relearn procedure maybe?
