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I agree and basically told the Johnson guy that what he was telling me was nuts. Their preload + - of only .005 is damn near impossible to truly hit given what we are dealing with and all the variables. On top of that I told him I bought the lifters used and it melted his brain. He told me the tolerances in the lifter are so tight that even a human hair getting into it could stick the plunger or limit flow. I told him that even if I bought new I could easily open the package and leave it in the garage for dust/hair to get into and that they shouldn't design parts that can only be correctly used with installed in a HEPA filtered NASA clean room. I think their expectations were a bit far fetched given most of us are just guys doing this **** in our garage.
sooooo i figured i would point out my personal experience, take in mind my car isn't running yet so take it with a grain, my numbers as stated were all over with the zero lash method. i then went strictly to rocker bolt turn. if 1 bolt turn is about .076 to .078, divide that by 12, for clock reference when turning the ratchet, and i got about .0063-.0065 per 1 hour position on our ratchet clock. i know this isn't new but just incase someone doesnt know what im talking about so since my desired preload is .038 cold, then i need to just start the ratchet at 12, and stop at our goal of 6 o'clock, easy to eye up vs if i needed like .045 or need to line up at 4 or 5 o'clock or something. so i would make sure that i started my turn 1 click of the ratchet before 12 because there is that little dead spot on ratchets, and was pretty easy to set it up so bolt starts to tighten at exactly 12. if i ended at 7 o clock, i shortened by .006, and reinstalled. sure enough i was now basically spot on 6 o clock, if i was a hair over, i shorten by .002 and i line up to 6 o clock. it was always pretty consistent so no reason to doubt it. so personally im having a hard time understanding why this method isn't approved, i see its not dead accurate, but cant see it being off more than a few thousandths, especially after completely doing the process twice, and just about always came up within .002
of my previous written number.
3/4 of a turn is "roughly" .060 so theoretically 1 turn is .080. You can get much more precise than thay but youll never get that precision from a std pushrod. Usually its .025 increments. Unless you custom order of course. But then every pushrod from any manufacturer will be different by just a little if youre getting just a swedged end 1 piece plus every manufacturer is different.
Sometimes you can overthink and try to be too precise and sometimes you also get tunnel vision.
Keep it simple. Iirc Johnson likes to run .030 but ive heard of guys running 7.400s on them without measuring so unknown preload.
Thats really why i like the morels a bit better also. Plus they use the larger roller size and even a bushed axle on some like the isky. Johnson has 2 tie bars. Axle oiling and reg. .700 wheel. And mostly captured roller. Both will do the job, but the morel are getting overlooked due to the virality of the Johnsons on social media builds.
Looking at all the LS engine specs on Summit's site, I noticed all pushrods are listed at 7.385, rather than the 7.400 we are used to hearing. I have heard there are different methods of measuring pushrod length. Is that what we are seeing here?
Ive measured 7.3990 mostly. Or basically 3 C hairs from 7.400. They are made in such huge batches their quality control is ran from a huge number so its not the best.
7.385 seems a little short to me. Ill measure a few sets i have this weekend and see
7.385 is close to the "gauge" length, to use the Comp measuring system. 7.4 would be the overall length, what you'd measure with a caliper. The difference is supposed to be about .017.
7.385 is close to the "gauge" length, to use the Comp measuring system. 7.4 would be the overall length, what you'd measure with a caliper. The difference is supposed to be about .017.
7.385 is close to the "gauge" length, to use the Comp measuring system. 7.4 would be the overall length, what you'd measure with a caliper. The difference is supposed to be about .017.
If you measure comp 7.4 with calipers you get around 7.410
Ok but my point is still this -- comp 7.400 are approx .015 longer than stock assuming you measure them the same way.
I measured yesterday - again - to compare.
Stock pullouts 7.393. Comp 7.4 were 7.408. Both with the same caliper.
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