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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 07:39 PM
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Default L92 build opinions

Scored a 76,000 mile 2008 L92 out of a Escalade, It has been sitting in a garage for 4+ years, Rolls over good & has around 15% leakdown (dry) on all cylinders.

This is going in my 2001 Camaro, 4L65E Trans, 3.42 Gears, P59 Truck PCM. Going to tear the engine down too install a 24X reluctor.

LS3 Intake.
LS3 Throttle Body w/ X-link box.
GM LS3 Head Gaskets.
GM Head Bolts.
LS7 Lifters (12499225)
LS3 Timing Cover
LS2 1x Timing Gear
LS2 Timing Chain Damper.
Hinson C7-R Timing Chain.
Low mileage L99 Balancer.
Comp XER273HR-14.
Jegs .080" 7.400" Push Rods.
PAC 1904 Dual Springs w/ Steel Retainers.

Questions are......

Do I really need to change the Intake Valves? A lot of conflicting information out there, Some say it's the pistons hitting the Valves/Loss of Valve Control, Some say it's the 2-piece construction & the heads just pop off.

It is my understanding that VVT-L92's have a high volume oil pump & will suck the sump dry? Running a stock F-Body 5.5 Quart Oil Pan......

Any & all thoughts/opinions welcome.
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by clinebarger
Scored a 76,000 mile 2008 L92 out of a Escalade, It has been sitting in a garage for 4+ years, Rolls over good & has around 15% leakdown (dry) on all cylinders.

This is going in my 2001 Camaro, 4L65E Trans, 3.42 Gears, P59 Truck PCM. Going to tear the engine down too install a 24X reluctor.

LS3 Intake.
LS3 Throttle Body w/ X-link box.
GM LS3 Head Gaskets.
GM Head Bolts.
LS7 Lifters (12499225)
LS3 Timing Cover
LS2 1x Timing Gear
LS2 Timing Chain Damper.
Hinson C7-R Timing Chain.
Low mileage L99 Balancer.
Comp XER273HR-14.
Jegs .080" 7.400" Push Rods.
PAC 1904 Dual Springs w/ Steel Retainers.

Questions are......

Do I really need to change the Intake Valves? A lot of conflicting information out there, Some say it's the pistons hitting the Valves/Loss of Valve Control, Some say it's the 2-piece construction & the heads just pop off.

It is my understanding that VVT-L92's have a high volume oil pump & will suck the sump dry? Running a stock F-Body 5.5 Quart Oil Pan......

Any & all thoughts/opinions welcome.
The L92 valves are solid stainless steel and heavy. The LS3 are hollow stem stainless steel and weigh about 20g less. It's much easier for the valvetrain to control the lighter hollow stem valves, and from what I'm reading, your cam has the aggressive XER lobes. I would definetly switch to the lighter LS3 valves or switch to a less aggressive camshaft.

I haven't seen or heard of a real case of a high volume pump sucking a pan dry yet. For daily driving and drag racing, it should be fine. For road course or top speed competitions (TX mile for example), it may happen. I had a Melling 10296, which is in between a stock LS1/6 pump and a VVT/AFM pump, on my old Trans Am engine and never had an oil pressure/level problem.
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 10:29 PM
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I never have changed out the valves in my L92 heads. I had the springs upgraded when I went to a bigger camshaft. I am current shifting at 6800rpm with no problems. When I ditched the VVT I also went with the Melling 10296 oil pump.
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 11:06 PM
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For the same price you can get a Martin/Tick Street Heat 3 Polluter cam (233/248 .62x/.61x 113+5) on a Cam Motion core, and not have aggressive comp lobes or a comp core or comp cams anything, which I feel is usually best. Can't go wrong with a Martin/Cam Motion cam.

And please, do not buy pushrods all *****-nilly. Measure for correct length and preload.

Other than that, it all looks pretty good.
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by clinebarger
Scored a 76,000 mile 2008 L92 out of a Escalade, It has been sitting in a garage for 4+ years, Rolls over good & has around 15% leakdown (dry) on all cylinders.

This is going in my 2001 Camaro, 4L65E Trans, 3.42 Gears, P59 Truck PCM. Going to tear the engine down too install a 24X reluctor.

LS3 Intake.
LS3 Throttle Body w/ X-link box.
GM LS3 Head Gaskets.
GM Head Bolts.
LS7 Lifters (12499225)
LS3 Timing Cover
LS2 1x Timing Gear
LS2 Timing Chain Damper.
Hinson C7-R Timing Chain.
Low mileage L99 Balancer.
Comp XER273HR-14.
Jegs .080" 7.400" Push Rods.
PAC 1904 Dual Springs w/ Steel Retainers.

Questions are......

Do I really need to change the Intake Valves? A lot of conflicting information out there, Some say it's the pistons hitting the Valves/Loss of Valve Control, Some say it's the 2-piece construction & the heads just pop off.

It is my understanding that VVT-L92's have a high volume oil pump & will suck the sump dry? Running a stock F-Body 5.5 Quart Oil Pan......

Any & all thoughts/opinions welcome.
Not a bad looking list of parts. We sell most everything on your list. For your valve springs, check our our dual valve springs kits:

http://store.cammotion.com/parts/valve-spring-kits

For the camshaft, have a look at our Titan Series street performance camshafts:

http://store.cammotion.com/catalog/s...word=titan+LS3

Our lobe designs and springs kits are compatible with your L92 valves and give outstanding performance. If you have any questions about camshaft selection for your application, it would be my pleasure to help you.

~Steven
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 02:07 PM
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"Our lobe designs and springs kits are compatible with your L92 valves and give outstanding performance. "

I can testify to that.
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 07:39 PM
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Thanks for the input guys!! I guess I should have stated that I have all the listed parts.....


Originally Posted by DavidBoren
For the same price you can get a Martin/Tick Street Heat 3 Polluter cam (233/248 .62x/.61x 113+5) on a Cam Motion core, and not have aggressive comp lobes or a comp core or comp cams anything, which I feel is usually best. Can't go wrong with a Martin/Cam Motion cam.

And please, do not buy pushrods all *****-nilly. Measure for correct length and preload.

Other than that, it all looks pretty good.

The Cam & Pushrods are the ONLY 2 things I had laying around & didn't have to buy!!

Definitely going to check the length, If I have too buy different length one's.....I'm not out any cash.

The cam came out of a 2011 LS3 that was running Beehives with no damage!! I was thinking running a good set of Duals would help control things better? The recommended Spring on Comp's website for this Cam are Identical to the PAC 1904 Specs.

The cam you mentioned sounds a little big for my needs.....Keep in mind I build Transmissions, I know just enough about Cam Specs to get me in trouble.

I have 3200 Stall now, And I DO NOT want too re-stall the 4L65E as a 4L80E is planned in the future.

KCS stated I may be able to get away with this IF LS3 Valve are installed......I can do that! I can get them from my local Chevy house for $23 a piece.

I don't mean to be a cheapskate, But I have a daughter that just started College & 2 daughters in High School.
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Old Aug 23, 2016 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by clinebarger
Thanks for the input guys!! I guess I should have stated that I have all the listed parts.....





The Cam & Pushrods are the ONLY 2 things I had laying around & didn't have to buy!!

Definitely going to check the length, If I have too buy different length one's.....I'm not out any cash.

The cam came out of a 2011 LS3 that was running Beehives with no damage!! I was thinking running a good set of Duals would help control things better? The recommended Spring on Comp's website for this Cam are Identical to the PAC 1904 Specs.

The cam you mentioned sounds a little big for my needs.....Keep in mind I build Transmissions, I know just enough about Cam Specs to get me in trouble.

I have 3200 Stall now, And I DO NOT want too re-stall the 4L65E as a 4L80E is planned in the future.

KCS stated I may be able to get away with this IF LS3 Valve are installed......I can do that! I can get them from my local Chevy house for $23 a piece.

I don't mean to be a cheapskate, But I have a daughter that just started College & 2 daughters in High School.
That cam will work fine with a 3200 stall. If it were mine, I would install that camshaft on a 110 intake centerline (advance two degrees from how it is ground). As for springs, you could run that cam with a beehive like the PAC 1218 springs that Cam Motion sell, But I prefer and recommend double springs for performance applications. Sometimes springs fail. The double springs can help prevent damage in those situations.

I also hate the stock crank vibration damper/pulleys. Lots of guys run them I know, but I have killed two of them. Not sure if it is the Florida heat or the countless trips to 7,000 RPM, but my ATI damper is money well spent in my book.

Last edited by speedtigger; Aug 23, 2016 at 12:32 PM.
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Old Aug 23, 2016 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by speedtigger
That cam will work fine with a 3200 stall. If it were mine, I would install that camshaft on a 110 intake centerline (advance two degrees from how it is ground). As for springs, you could run that cam with a beehive like the PAC 1218 springs that Cam Motion sell, But I prefer and recommend double springs for performance applications. Sometimes springs fail. The double springs can help prevent damage in those situations.

I also hate the stock crank vibration damper/pulleys. Lots of guys run them I know, but I have killed two of them. Not sure if it is the Florida heat or the countless trips to 7,000 RPM, but my ATI damper is money well spent in my book.
Are you speaking of the XER273HR?
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Old Aug 23, 2016 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by clinebarger
Are you speaking of the XER273HR?
Yes..
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Old Aug 24, 2016 | 12:58 AM
  #11  
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Thanks Man, I appreciate it! I should have read between the lines....Ground on a 112 centerline, Advanced 2 degrees equals 110.
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