Reluctor wheel question???
Changing one 24 teeth reluctor wheel for another 24 teeth was not so bad after did good marks with the first one in place but what can I do to change a 24 teeth for a 58?
Thanks for your advice but I wrote it wrong. I have a crank with 58 teeth reluctor wheel and I need to replace the reluctor wheel with a 24 teeth one (58 for a 24). How can I do some marks to be sure that is in the correct position?
Best bet is to find someone with the Goodmark alignment tool. If you have access to a bare block, a 24x crank, bearings, and a degree wheel you can prolly figure it out by zeroing the wheel to TDC then putting the wheel "notch" dead-center in the crank sensor opening and reading the wheel...
HI, the past "tech" is DEAD WRONG.
The VR sensor "triggers" on Falling Edge.
The HALL sensor "triggers" on Rising Edge.
The Hall sensor is fitted to LS engines as OEM.
Thus "center" the beginning of the tooth after he notch to the center of the CS bore in the direction of rotation.
Once done, I would spot weld the TW to the crankshaft.
Lanec
The VR sensor "triggers" on Falling Edge.
The HALL sensor "triggers" on Rising Edge.
The Hall sensor is fitted to LS engines as OEM.
Thus "center" the beginning of the tooth after he notch to the center of the CS bore in the direction of rotation.
Once done, I would spot weld the TW to the crankshaft.
Lanec
HI, the past "tech" is DEAD WRONG.
The VR sensor "triggers" on Falling Edge.
The HALL sensor "triggers" on Rising Edge.
The Hall sensor is fitted to LS engines as OEM.
Thus "center" the beginning of the tooth after he notch to the center of the CS bore in the direction of rotation.
Once done, I would spot weld the TW to the crankshaft.
Lanec
The VR sensor "triggers" on Falling Edge.
The HALL sensor "triggers" on Rising Edge.
The Hall sensor is fitted to LS engines as OEM.
Thus "center" the beginning of the tooth after he notch to the center of the CS bore in the direction of rotation.
Once done, I would spot weld the TW to the crankshaft.
Lanec





