LQ4 stroker options
04-24-2017, 01:45 PM
#1
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LQ4 stroker options Hi, I'm an auto tech student who's on the verge of rebuilding a 6.0 LQ4 this fall semester. I'm currently stuck on buying a 396 stroker kit or a 408 stroker kit. I'd really appreciate ALL the pros and cons of both set ups... in detail. Also will the engine be able to handle anywhere between a 50-200 shot of NO2 ? I would greatly appreciate any advice on modifying this engine. i don't know the specifics but the end goal is to make 900-1000 ft lbs of torque, not really focusing on HP ( forgive me if I sound like an extreme noob). Any reputable companies i can call for forged/stroked crankshafts? once again any help & advice in the right direction is appreciated 
P.S- Gen III engine just so you know
P.S- Gen III engine just so you know
Last edited by LQ4Nooby456; 04-24-2017 at 02:09 PM.
04-24-2017, 02:35 PM
#2
You would need to spray an N/A 408 pretty hard (350-400) horse range to make that kinda torque.
I would put forged rods and pistons on the GM crank and run a Borg Warner S-475 turbo. With 14 pounds of boost on E85 you would be in that 850-900 foot pounds of torque range
I would put forged rods and pistons on the GM crank and run a Borg Warner S-475 turbo. With 14 pounds of boost on E85 you would be in that 850-900 foot pounds of torque range
04-24-2017, 03:18 PM
#3
Like targa said, youre gonna need alot more nitrous or boost. If you had more cid, it would be alot easier but the 6.0 block limits that.
Are you looking at 800+ at the crank? Like was said you can get closer with E85 than pump on that.
Youd be spending quite a bit on components for that, but to hit close youd want a very aggressive hyd roller or solid roller and some pretty high compression.
Heads are the next part.
You can shoot me an email and i can give you a recipe and anaylsis on parts needed and costs.
Rpmspeedtech@gmail.com
We can get you what you need, carb or fuel inj.
Are you looking at 800+ at the crank? Like was said you can get closer with E85 than pump on that.
Youd be spending quite a bit on components for that, but to hit close youd want a very aggressive hyd roller or solid roller and some pretty high compression.
Heads are the next part.
You can shoot me an email and i can give you a recipe and anaylsis on parts needed and costs.
Rpmspeedtech@gmail.com
We can get you what you need, carb or fuel inj.
04-24-2017, 06:00 PM
#5
Honestly 1000 ft ponds of TQ with a 408. Well TQ is HP and Hp is Rpm. So with that said you'd need about 600 ft pound of TQ then a 350 to 400 shot to try to get there and that sounds like a factory style intake. Compression should and would be high 12+ and a Solid roller will and would help make the number. A bigger stroke and larger engine and I'd say it could be done you'd need at min. 600 Foot pounds of TQ to make 1000 ft pounds of TQ with the NOS. Still talking a 408 with a 4 inch crank.
A.R. Shale Targa said it right think F/I.
https://www.powernationtv.com/episod...ed-turbo-power
Add a properly sized solid roller and ported intake to this build.
A.R. Shale Targa said it right think F/I.
https://www.powernationtv.com/episod...ed-turbo-power
Add a properly sized solid roller and ported intake to this build.
04-27-2017, 10:17 AM
#7
TECH Senior Member
^^^^^^this^^^^^^^^
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04-27-2017, 04:18 PM
#10
TECH Senior Member
And it would have 1/4 of the life of a Diesel, if worked as hard.
04-27-2017, 06:52 PM
#12
TECH Senior Member
Oh OK, thank you for clarifying. Usually when someone refers to torque more than HP, hauling/towing is involved. And I made an assumption(yeah, I know...lol).
04-28-2017, 09:57 AM
#13
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PEFI Twin Turbo Hi "456", yes I have done this with great success for my Pantera customers.
Many of them wanted to have Torque WITHOUT the cost of a HI RPM engine.
The Turbo choice is MOST important, with MY experience, a MODERN VNT "small" compressor and TWO of them. (TT)
The Camshaft is also VERY important 212/219 .567/.535 with a 104 L/C will be perfect.
The Torque @ 3500 RPM 1350 (20 .lbs) with HP @ 6000 RPM of 1050 (15 .lbs).
This assumes E-95 Bus Fuel is this "E" fuel in your area ?
NEXT, do not use a GEN-III base
USE a GEN IV base AL 5.3 as this is a LS-3 block with THICK walls @ 3.86
The engine is a LS-383 with a 4.1" crankshaft.
Would you line my help ?
I will provide a great price for a school project, as I won (team member) the FIRST Hibrid college "shoot out" with a Dodge Neon in 1994. (63 MPG)
Lance
Many of them wanted to have Torque WITHOUT the cost of a HI RPM engine.
The Turbo choice is MOST important, with MY experience, a MODERN VNT "small" compressor and TWO of them. (TT)
The Camshaft is also VERY important 212/219 .567/.535 with a 104 L/C will be perfect.
The Torque @ 3500 RPM 1350 (20 .lbs) with HP @ 6000 RPM of 1050 (15 .lbs).
This assumes E-95 Bus Fuel is this "E" fuel in your area ?
NEXT, do not use a GEN-III base
USE a GEN IV base AL 5.3 as this is a LS-3 block with THICK walls @ 3.86
The engine is a LS-383 with a 4.1" crankshaft.
Would you line my help ?
I will provide a great price for a school project, as I won (team member) the FIRST Hibrid college "shoot out" with a Dodge Neon in 1994. (63 MPG)
Lance
04-28-2017, 11:08 AM
#14
A 383 has a 4 inch crank. Even in a 6.0 block like he is saying, there is a reason why most dont use a 4.100 crank in them either.
Like i said im not trying to start a war but there is so much wrong with what you are saying, its hard to point out all the problems without telling anyone to pay no mind.
Like i said im not trying to start a war but there is so much wrong with what you are saying, its hard to point out all the problems without telling anyone to pay no mind.
05-02-2017, 11:39 AM
#17
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Ls-383 tt Hi LQ4, I would again suggest an AL 5.3 Block, the GEN-IV, as your base.
The GEN-IV block is based on the LS-3 casting with the THICK Walls and great Head Gasket deck area.
The problem of stud/deck cracking is LESS as there is also more area in the deck.
The USE of a 4.1" stroke vs a 4.0" stroke crankshaft will LOWER the piston by LESS THAN the normal LS Spark Plug Gap. (.050")
I do TRUST Wayne Brooks (Race Tech Pistons) in his ability to engineer a piston skirt length CORRECT for a 4.1" stroke.
Wayne WAS the owner of J.E. pistons, the man who shaped the piston industry.
The GM engineers CHOSE a 6.064" length, shorter, for their 4.0" stroke.
I have had luck with this "build" in TT Air Boats, most common, with Direct Drive Propellers.
Lance
The GEN-IV block is based on the LS-3 casting with the THICK Walls and great Head Gasket deck area.
The problem of stud/deck cracking is LESS as there is also more area in the deck.
The USE of a 4.1" stroke vs a 4.0" stroke crankshaft will LOWER the piston by LESS THAN the normal LS Spark Plug Gap. (.050")
I do TRUST Wayne Brooks (Race Tech Pistons) in his ability to engineer a piston skirt length CORRECT for a 4.1" stroke.
Wayne WAS the owner of J.E. pistons, the man who shaped the piston industry.
The GM engineers CHOSE a 6.064" length, shorter, for their 4.0" stroke.
I have had luck with this "build" in TT Air Boats, most common, with Direct Drive Propellers.
Lance
05-02-2017, 12:02 PM
#18
The USE of a 4.1" stroke vs a 4.0" stroke crankshaft will LOWER the piston by LESS THAN the normal LS Spark Plug Gap. (.050")
I do TRUST Wayne Brooks (Race Tech Pistons) in his ability to engineer a piston skirt length CORRECT for a 4.1" stroke.
Wayne WAS the owner of J.E. pistons, the man who shaped the piston industry.
The GM engineers CHOSE a 6.064" length, shorter, for their 4.0" stroke.
Lance
I do TRUST Wayne Brooks (Race Tech Pistons) in his ability to engineer a piston skirt length CORRECT for a 4.1" stroke.
Wayne WAS the owner of J.E. pistons, the man who shaped the piston industry.
The GM engineers CHOSE a 6.064" length, shorter, for their 4.0" stroke.
Lance
Also, just to play Devil's Advocate, GM also utilized a longer cylinder in the LS7 which afforded the use of a shorter rod and increased stroke. The 5.3L block doesn't enjoy that luxury.
05-03-2017, 12:35 PM
#20
I don't know. I think a good old 6.0 Iron block with a a 4" crank, or, if cost is a factor, stock 3.62" stroke engine with twin turbo's. 60-66mm compressors with the smaller 65mm turbine wheel and a small Turbine housing with an A/R of .68 or so may do it for you.
My previous 404 ci LS2 engine (4.10" bore/4.0" stroke) put down a hair over 900 ft. lbs of torque and just 774 WHP through a TH400 (15psi). It spooled up damn near as well as a roots blower with gobs of low end power. Obviously the turbo's are on the smallish side of making the big power Horsepower. But they have more than enough to meet your goal of 1k torque. And there's similar sized Chinese turbos out there for dirt cheap, too that will make that kind of power without breaking the bank. But I'd still go brand name just because...
My previous 404 ci LS2 engine (4.10" bore/4.0" stroke) put down a hair over 900 ft. lbs of torque and just 774 WHP through a TH400 (15psi). It spooled up damn near as well as a roots blower with gobs of low end power. Obviously the turbo's are on the smallish side of making the big power Horsepower. But they have more than enough to meet your goal of 1k torque. And there's similar sized Chinese turbos out there for dirt cheap, too that will make that kind of power without breaking the bank. But I'd still go brand name just because...