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Lq4 416 stroker build

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Old 05-22-2017, 09:14 PM   #1
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Default Lq4 416 stroker build

Hey guys new here. In the processes of building my '05 lq4 out to a 416 stroker. Rotating assembly is at the shop awaiting balance. Wiseco Pro Series pistons (4.005") , K1 4.125 crank and 6.125 forged H-beams. Hoping to get the rotating assembly back by Friday and spending the 3 day weekend getting things done. Using a 224/228 .600 .600 111LSA cam from TSP, ported 243 heads w/ti valves & Comp. beehive springs, I believe .041-.042 MLS head gaskets, trunnion bushing upgrade, in certain of push rods yet & truck intake that I shaved. First LS build. First engine build other than moto & street bikes. All new gaskets, oil pump, lifters & trays.. I've been doing quite a bit of research and reading over the past 6 months but I know this is still going to be a tedious task. I've been wrenching on cars with the old man ever since I can remember and I build things on the daily. I'm just hoping that you all would be kind enough to share anything that could be helpful enough to help me make this dream a success. Needles to say fu$k! I'm excited! It's going into a '04 Silverado 2wd RCLB. (For now) anything I need to pay special attention to? Any tips that might help other than being patient and clean? Any help would be appreciated. I've spent more than I should have and I can't afford any mistakes. I have a list of all my torque specs. I'm trying to mention everything that has come to my attention but if there's anything, fellas I can't express enough how appreciative I am for any help and/tips! Let me know plz!! And if anyone gives a crap about my build and chimes in with some interest I'll be glade to share progress. Thanks!
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:22 PM   #2
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Clean all the head bolt holes with compresses air. Use a new cam thrust plate. Use a new oil barbell. Make double sure your block is clearanced good and your windage tray is shimmed right. Use good lube on the pickup tube. Locktite the cam bolts. Wipe deck surface down with a cloth and some brake clean to make sure its clean. Install pan first, put silicone on the corners, lightly install cover bolts then use bottom pan bolts to pull cover to the pan, then torque cover bolts down. Dont soak lifters. Put lube on every metal to metal part including pushrods, lifters, valve tips, rocker arms. Moly engine assy lube is good. That should be about it.
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:30 PM   #3
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Ok didn't get a new cam thrust plate, I'll get one, I got a billet double chain timing set too. What's the significance of the thrust plate? Just another part that deals with heavy wear? This lq4 did have 225k good shape but has some miles. Stock replacement thrust plate sufficient? Stock bolts? I do have ARP head bots too. Anywhere I should use thread sealant? Or thread lube for specific areas? I noticed for Rod bolts they suggest a specific lube. Deff have Molly assembly lube for all the parts.. thx BTW
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:33 PM   #4
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My bad picked up lock tight on cam bolts. Check!
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:42 PM   #5
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For the double roller youll need the new thrust plate with tapered head bolts so youll need thrust plate and 4 bolts. then youll have to grind quite a bit to make that chain and oil pump fit. youll want to do that first.
Use lube under head of bolt between bolt and washer and between washer and head. it allows for a more consistent torque. thread sealer on the threads.
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:54 PM   #6
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And this is why I knew I better do some asking.. that would have slowed me down a few days. Thanks again!
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Old 05-22-2017, 10:20 PM   #8
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I'm calling tomorrow to see if I can return it and get this simplified. I have a learning curve ahead of me but that's how I do things. Love to build and love to learn even when it comes at the cost of a few expensive mistakes. Im just hoping this is one of those scenarios where all comes together without catostrophic failure.. I don't care if it take a week.
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Old 05-27-2017, 08:41 AM   #9
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Machine shop has had block for over 5 weeks for a clean, hone, & balance rotating assembly. Guy calls me Thursday am (planning on getting parts back Friday for a Memorial weekend build) and says he can't swap the reluctor wheel on the cranks! Wouldn't that be something a shop would pick up sooner if he had any LS experience? The dissointment is real! 2, 4 hour road trips next week it's going to take to get it done. I thought about buying the tool myself and swapping them out but if he couldn't figure that out, should the guy even be doing the most important job of all? Not to mention he's obviously backed up as Fu$k!
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Old 05-27-2017, 10:38 AM   #10
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You answered your own question, Sorry to hear about that,
Friend of mine just bought tool for like $200 and figured he
Could rent out once or twice @ ~25-40 to offset, Shop should
Have had or known. No excuse.
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Old 05-27-2017, 01:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LSrBest View Post
Machine shop has had block for over 5 weeks for a clean, hone, & balance rotating assembly. Guy calls me Thursday am (planning on getting parts back Friday for a Memorial weekend build) and says he can't swap the reluctor wheel on the cranks! Wouldn't that be something a shop would pick up sooner if he had any LS experience? The dissointment is real! 2, 4 hour road trips next week it's going to take to get it done. I thought about buying the tool myself and swapping them out but if he couldn't figure that out, should the guy even be doing the most important job of all? Not to mention he's obviously backed up as Fu$k!
Why can't they swap reluctors? **** happens sometimes, tools break or even grow legs and walk away. 5 weeks does sound kinda excessive for a clean, hone, and balance though.
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Old 05-28-2017, 09:19 AM   #12
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Changing the the reluctor wheel is a 20 min. job tops, you need a better machine shop that gives a ****...
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:22 AM   #13
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I bought one just for this reason, frustrating not having one. I called almost all the local machine shops, only one had it and they would not rent it out but instead charge $70 to install a wheel on my crank.
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Old 06-16-2017, 07:10 PM   #14
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Yea i was pretty upset. Un fortunately where I'm living which I'm new to the city, he was the recommended guy. Of coarse it's a small town. Thank god a guy from here hit me up and turned me on to a shop a few hours away who for the most part works with LS and LT engines and they had it done in no time!
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Old 06-16-2017, 07:12 PM   #15
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Finished pics! Now next weekend it gets put into action
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Old 06-16-2017, 07:15 PM   #16
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Why can't they swap reluctors? **** happens sometimes, tools break or even grow legs and walk away. 5 weeks does sound kinda excessive for a clean, hone, and balance though.
Because I geuss he's still building the old small blocks lol
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Old 06-16-2017, 07:19 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by NAVYBLUE210 View Post
You answered your own question, Sorry to hear about that,
Friend of mine just bought tool for like $200 and figured he
Could rent out once or twice @ ~25-40 to offset, Shop should
Have had or known. No excuse.
He should have known off the bat no doubt that's what made me so angry.. not to mention he took 5 weeks to look at it when he said a week.. lesson learned. Do more research on shop before you commit to their service. Guy is a nice guy and knows his **** but he's short staffed in a small town and doesn't do a lot of LS work.. good news is tho now it's complete. The guy I drive 2 hours one way to drop crank off too, had it done in 2 days. And his shop was packed with serious bad *** ****! I said thanks a ton and he said "no problem I like to keep these small jobs moving to make some quick cash. And he was cheaper than the guy in my town..
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Old 06-17-2017, 10:51 AM   #18
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Wow, someone spent some time on that intake, that's art. I've used the Goodson reluctor tool 2 times already, it's slowly paying for it's self. It does NOT install the reluctor wheel, it only indexes correct position, you use a hot plate or torch and a copper hammer and tap it on with ease when it's the correct temp then recheck the alignment. Buy one.
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:53 AM   #19
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Wow, someone spent some time on that intake, that's art. I've used the Goodson reluctor tool 2 times already, it's slowly paying for it's self. It does NOT install the reluctor wheel, it only indexes correct position, you use a hot plate or torch and a copper hammer and tap it on with ease when it's the correct temp then recheck the alignment. Buy one.
Thanks on the intake. Took some time. Longer than intended but I like the tall runner look, for now it will work. Probably will buy the tool soon. I have the crank, rods and pistons from the 6.0, and block & pistons from the 4.8 coming out this weekend for a winter project
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